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Discussion Starter #1
Good day everyone, I have a problem with my after market blinkers (non LED). When engine is off, every blinker works fine, but after the engine warms up, turn signals blink fast that it looks like a solid light. However, if I press the hazard light button, all lights blink normally. This started after I replaced stock exhaust to Vance & Hines cruzers pipes. Have any of you heard/had anything like this and where should I start looking? Thank you in advance.
 

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sounds unrelated to the V&H pipe install, sounds more like a coincidence unless some electrical wires were messed with by accident while installing.

fast blinking comes from the flasher modules, maybe you could replace the stock ones with newer solid-state flasher relays
 

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^ this. First thing I’d do is replace the flasher module and see what happens.

Tell me if I’m wrong here...Normally if one bulb burns out the lights flash faster, so I’m guessing the flasher unit senses voltage use. Thus having all lights flash (hazards) would use more juice than just two. So it seems there is just something wrong with the unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sounds unrelated to the V&H pipe install, sounds more like a coincidence unless some electrical wires were messed with by accident while installing.

fast blinking comes from the flasher modules, maybe you could replace the stock ones with newer solid-state flasher relays
^ this. First thing I’d do is replace the flasher module and see what happens.

Tell me if I’m wrong here...Normally if one bulb burns out the lights flash faster, so I’m guessing the flasher unit senses voltage use. Thus having all lights flash (hazards) would use more juice than just two. So it seems there is just something wrong with the unit.
Thank you both for the suggestion. I'll get EP34 and report back. I probably should replace the light bulbs too jic. Which ones should I get?
 

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This is similar to my situation, my left flasher is faster than the right. I bought my bike knowing it had a few repairs and one of those repairs was a replaced turn rear signal - what they did was buy a FRONT turn signal and installed it on the back. They may have even bought one for the right. So this could be a cause as well. Hope this helps.

Good day everyone, I have a problem with my after market blinkers (non LED). When engine is off, every blinker works fine, but after the engine warms up, turn signals blink fast that it looks like a solid light. However, if I press the hazard light button, all lights blink normally. This started after I replaced stock exhaust to Vance & Hines cruzers pipes. Have any of you heard/had anything like this and where should I start looking? Thank you in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
That's a good thought. I bought a new solid state relay and try that first. I had to remove the engine from the frame and split the crank case to replace a broken shifter link arm and putting it back together. Next thing is to drill holes in clutch basket and probably replace the stator for good measure (can't test it now at idling/crusing rpms) as I am not planning to do the tuxedo mod as of today.

However, I just started reading about R/R mod which I haven't done yet and not sure if my R/R is in good condition. Any advice on R/R mod? Could a bad R/R be causing fast blinking after the engine warmed up?

Thanks again everyone.
 

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dang! you've got a lot of work on your hands.

as for the stator, you can do a resistance test between the wires, that'll at least show a completely shorted stator. may not be necessary to replace.

the R/R mod is a good idea. I did it with a used one off some ATV. FH020 style. some places have good kits that you install yourself. https://www.roadstercycle.com/ this fella has good kits
 

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The flasher unit has to be compatible with the lights. If RPM has anything to do with it, and it shouldn't, it is still likely to be the flasher unit. Testing the stator and R/R is as simple as using a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals. At idle, it should be around 12V, maybe a bit less (running the bike at idle actually slowly drains the battery because the charging system does not put out enough current. When you run the RPM up to around 3000, the voltage should go up to at least 14.5V

I know nobody wants to hear this, but I'm on my third Vulcan 750, all 3 had/have the stock flasher unit and lights, and they have never caused a problem. The front signals are different, because they contain running lights. However, they use 2 filament bulbs, with a separate wire for each filament. You can use them on the rear, just don't connect the wire for the running lights. You still have to use the bulbs for the front, the front lights have 2 contacts in the socket, the rear ones only have one contact. The only modification I ever did to the turn signals was to switch to amber bulbs and clear lenses. Then I decided I liked the amber lenses better. I wish it were possible to get red lenses for the stock rear signals, so they could also be used as running lights. My Sportster has been converted so the rear signals, with red lenses, serve as turn signals, running lights, and brake lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Happy New Year everyone. Thanks for your help so far. I put the bike together and now I am faced with few more issues... The starter won't turn the engine over. A single starter relay click (per click of START button) and nothing. Then, I noticed the neutral light was on while in 1st gear... I'll deal with that later - disconnected that lil' green wire.

Battery measures 12.5V, when key in ON, 12.3V, 5V at the starter (between the connector rod and ground on battery). Have any of you heard or dealt with similar issues? I read about the bypass mod or even doing jump battery-to-starter (i'd do it just to hear the engine crank if at all...). Thoughts?

Thank you again gents! :nerd:
 

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Can you tell where the click is coming from? The relay in junction box on the left side or the solenoid on the right?
I'd probably do the bypass just to eliminate the junction box as a potential cause. You could also put the multimeter on the solenoid terminal and see if you get voltage there when the click happens... that would let you know if the relay in the junction box is ok or not.

I'd leave that neutral light connected. Depending on WHERE you remove that green wire could mess up your starter circuitry. Also, any feedback on weird behavior is useful for troubleshooting. "oh, hey, that light goes off when the shifter gets used like THIS but not like THIS", etc.
 

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If you're getting 5v at the starter when you push the start button, I would look for a bad connection between the solenoid and the starter. If the cable checks ok, I'd suspect a bad solenoid.

You can jump between the two large terminals on the solenoid to see if the starter kicks in. Quite a few amps there so don't use a light gauge wire, it could burn you.

Touch the Junction Box while pushing the start button to see if you feel the single click, then do the same with starter solenoid under the right sidecover. Let us know what you find.

Always possible the battery just doesn't have enough amps to turn the starter. You could watch the battery volts as you hit start, if it drops to 5v, you found the problem, a bad battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Realizing this is not appropriate place for this discussion now. the engine is not cranking. I pulled the starter off and tested it with jump cables. Something is not allowing the engine to turn over. Removed the stator cover and tried to turn the engine to no avail. Does not budge clockwise at all, but did turn with resistance counterclockwise... I am not sure what's causing it but I will need to remove the right and left covers to investigate.
 

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Take one spark plug out of each cylinder and try it.

It may have flooded a cylinder with gas and it's hydro-locking.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Take one spark plug out of each cylinder and try it.

It may have flooded a cylinder with gas and it's hydro-locking.
Had the same thought and tried that... did not help. When I attached the shifter lever, the shifter rod went inward a bit and I think the washer or circlip may have bent, or the starter idling gear that connects to the right balancer gear may have stuck... I just hope it's not a chain. Going to go tomorrow and open it up... any more suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
It's not electric, it's mechanic...

Found the issue with engine not cranking. Starter, connections, relay, and ground are good. The issue, in my case was in right-hand cover. I suspect it's the starter idling gear. When I close the cover and not tighten the screws, the engine cranks in both directions pretty freely. But if I tighten screws closer to the front of the right-hand case (around the starter clutch), the damn thing is tight as a mthfkr. I ordered a new gasket, just in case the first one i got was too thin. Also, i might have been too generous with the grease for the housing spaces of the idling gear. Any of you guys had this before?

Edit: just rewatched Roach's video, and I can see the washer is on the outside of the gear. I'll check it on Wed and hopefully that'll fix it.
 
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