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It could be hooked up switched also, so you can switch from one to the other for charging....
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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Your referring to a battery that would not be connected to the charging system right?
Don't see why you couldn't.
You could but you would have limited power without a way to keep the additional battery charged.
 

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Wolfie, I guessed they missed the switched dual batt system. I had one on my truck ( homemade of course) I used for hunting/camping
 

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Giggity!
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You could but you would have limited power without a way to keep the additional battery charged.
I realize that would be a drawback.
I wonder how much juice this radio of his uses anyway?
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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It could be hooked up switched also, so you can switch from one to the other for charging....
hmmm that is an awesome idea. Might have to investigate that. Building a sissy bar for camping and have a 2 liter fuel bottle I was going to mount back there, might do a battery too!
 

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I know that a lotta RVs have aux batteries....and there is an automatic switching system....I had one on my tourney bass boat...switched between charging the engine starting battery, to charging the trolling motor battery...that could be something to look into....the way the bass boats do it....Im sure its compact.....I think I had something the size of a solenoid unit on my Skeeter....

And ya, a normal stereo wont draw much and say, a TP stator with a higher upped R/R could handle it (MOSFET)....Unless ya have the Joshua Light Show eminating from yer bike....a TP coupled with a higher amp MOSFET should handle it....
Or ya can add a Chevy alternator belt driven off the stator side, as was just shown here recently.....(I still crap my pants every time I look at them pics, lol)....fookin genius though....

And Tommy...Vulcan2000...call me when ya get a chance....its time to ride brother....
 

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switch your running and blinker lights to LED's and you will be very surprised at how much extra Juice you will have. check my sig.

Now, not knowing the current draw of your stero setup, it may still be overtaxing the system with a stock stator and Regulator.

Some details would help, but you can find a good balance between current draw and having to bleed extra current through the R/R by making some adjustments in your system's power consumption.

EDIT: It is possible to set up a secondary battery and throw a switch so you can charge it at highway speeds, but you need to make a few calculations on what your system is doing and what (if any) excess power you have available at higher RPM's.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Specs show RMS @ 300watts... I do need to switch to LEDs, though the stories of having to replace the stator are making me consider adding an extra rechargeable battery...
 

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Proud owner of 2 VN750s!
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It would be pricey, but you might even be able to get two of these in our battery box...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/141256029946?nav=SEARCH

Anyone have any prior experience with either the 8 or 12 cell Ballistic Li-Ion batteries?
 

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Specs show RMS @ 300watts... I do need to switch to LEDs, though the stories of having to replace the stator are making me consider adding an extra rechargeable battery...
Forget the power output spec, it isn't useful for this at all. find out the actual current you need to run it....turn it on, crank it up and see how much current the system draws in the 12V input side.

That is the REAL number you need to look at.
Once you know that, you can calculate if the bike can handle it by reducing current draw on other compunents.

Remember the system draw I am referring to is NORMAL useage of lights and electrics when the bike is running.

The power in reserve that the R/R manages by either using or shunting it to ground is basically stuff like blinker, flashers, horn, cooling fan, brake lights, high beam, ..and others that are not normally on, and not all used at the same time for extended periods.
 
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