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Giggity!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Disclaimer: Even though this modification only alters the outer case of the engine in the addition to adding some parts, everything is 100% reversible.
But, I in no way assume any responsibility to damage you may incur upon your bike.

Ok, I know I'm going to leave $#!t out so ask away. I'll do my best to answer everyone's question.
Also, I am not the best teacher. I'm a do'er. So don't expect a step by step how to. This is more of a "this is what I did".
There is room for improvement, as with everything. But this is fully functioning.
Roughly a thousand miles have been put on the bike since the conversion.
I have a solid 14.5v at idle & obviously all thru the gears.

I started with problem one. What do I drive the alternator with?
Ok, so this seems logical. Spins with engine rpm, solid & centered to where the
stator was.

**You don't need to remove the rotor, this was just a pic I already had**



So I went about finding a machine shop that would make what I needed.
A shaft with the same length thread proportionate to the existing bolt
that mounts the rotor. I had the shaft lathed to 1" diameter.
This matched close to a crank seal I found. I kept the info for later
use but it seems to be missing now. Of course. Any way, the outcome looked like this.



The external plate you see I made. There is a matching one on the inside.
I used some sealant where it compresses between the engines case.
The inside of the case needs to be ground down to allow a flush mount
of what I'm calling the crank seals housing.

The hole in the end was for an extension of the concept that did not need to be done.
I was planning on adding a flanged bolt to it as a safety. I decided it was not necessary.




On this one, please excuse the rust. Not all pieces held up well. But now I know what needs
changed out. You don't buy the best of whats available when your working out the kinks.
The pulleys are all purchased from "tractor supply". This was my only local option.
For the main drive pulley I used a 4". It is a 1" core & tightly slides over my shaft.
it is locked in place by a (rusty, lol) Allen bolt. Ideally you would use a set screw here
but I wasn't able to find one the right length. This will be modified later. It's functionality
right now.



The middle pullies are linked together. I really wanted to find a pre-combined set but was unable.
So, the next best thing was done. I combined them. I drilled thru the two pullies so as I could
use a bolt thru each side to lock them together so one drives the other. There is jb-weld in the nuts
for now. I am planning on spot welding the bolts and pullies together before spring.



They ride on a bolt that is mounted in a horizontal slit to allow adjustment. You can see this here
along with the adjustment for the alternator it's self. The receiving pulley is a 2 5/8" (smallest I could find to 2") I was looking to double
the speed of the pulley to make the alternator spin faster than the engine to achieve proper rpm for full voltage at idle.
This bracket I also fabricated.



Also visible here is the positive power lead which I used a 42" cable that is connected directly to the battery.
The red wire is the sensing lead. This is what turns on the charging of the alternator. where in the circuit
this is connected is where the alternator produces the power to. So, if it's connected to an ignition source, then
not only will it be turned off with the key but you won't drain your battery.

If your sensing source is the battery, it doesn't turn off & will drain.

Here you can see the small brackets I made to mount the alternator to the bike. Again, I need to get better bolts here.
The brackets needed to be rounded at the top & bottom to allow fine tune movement up & down. This all plays well
for tightening the belts.



All of the mounting points utilized existing spots on the bike. Little things thru out the process posed challenges.
Figuring the angles & spaces needed for everything to be routed.
I actually had this originally set up as a one belt system & it worked well. The belt ran over & under the foot peg.
Until I went to put the shifter back on. Whoops. lol This is why I went to the dual pulley.

From the battery to the rest of the bike all wiring is stock. The headlight simply needs to be connected via a new relay
to activate from an ignition source or, move the (blue?) wire over to pin 8? something like that.
That's a totally different write up that is easily found.


So... hiway pegs probably aren't an option with this but, my floorboards are built off the factory pegs. So factory pegs will not be ab issue with this.
I will not be putting a guard over the belt system. My pant legs don't come near it to be caught. I may end up putting a guard on
the edge of the floorboard to prevent my foot from occasionally rubbing against the main pulley.

So, if you've read this far I'll tell you, the alternator is from a tow-motor. But any small alt will work. Just don't use a 1-wire alternator or
also known as a racing alt. They are self exciting which means, it's always on & will drain your battery. Usually just a jumper wire to
make it self exciting but I make no claim to say it's so for all of them.
Mine is rated 35 amps. More than anything I will need.

Here is a link to the exact alt I used. It was listed as a 1 wire but turned out to be a normal alt. Which was a blessing in disguise.
Ebay Alt

Oh, and as a note, the rotation should be counter clockwise for the fan to cool properly but in it's location... I'm not to worried.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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1,498 Posts
A true work of beauty. Thank you for putting the effort in and having the balls to do what many of us have dreamed of doing.
Any chance you remember the thread specs for your takeoff shaft?

If anybody needs pullies for this project there is s huge selection at www.surpluscenter.com That's were I order pullies for my business and the selection is incredible.
 

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Giggity!
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4,307 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Honestly, no. I don't remember. But the shop who made me the shaft is local & can produce more. I'll double check on that though.

Now to spend some time shopping on that site!
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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1,498 Posts
Honestly, no. I don't remember. But the shop who made me the shaft is local & can produce more. I'll double check on that though.

Now to spend some time shopping on that site!
Oh you'll love surplus center. It's every tinkerer's paradise.
 

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Giggity!
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Discussion Starter #7

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Just fer haa haas....any "rough idea" of what this cost ya ?....Im thinking more into adapting salvage yard parts if possibe....ie, I can get a tested Chevy alternator for 10 bucks, and pulleys from between 2-5 bucks each....I got a local machine shop too to do any rethreadding....

I like the way ya came out the side cover....looks nice and clean ! Kudos !....seal in there ? Bearings ?...Id mebbe add some if I were attempting it.....

Id put a 1/3 shield on the alternator too since there's a lotta gravel roads here....
 

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And if its not an issue...Id like to move this to Builds/Mods/Fabrication since its FAR from stock or within a newbie's talents....I'll even sticky it in there....
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Giggity!
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Discussion Starter #11
I felt electrical was appropriate. But what ever.
The local shop charged me $50 for the part to be made.
I did forget to mention & I'll add it in there. The bracket
That holds the alt & pulley, I made as well.
The alt I used was $70, add up all the little parts & pieces,
Came out around $200.
 

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Giggity!
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Discussion Starter #12

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Premium Member
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I have been waiting on this ,Jason and I had talked some while he was working this out and I have been hounding him with questions about how it worked out and such.

Glad to see this on here and also glad your charging issues are over. That is one thing that will remain a mystery is why that particular bike ate stators. Good job Kanuck and I'm glad you got it out of Beta and it is public now.:smiley_th

There you go boys now it has been done, To bust out a little StarTrek on ya,he "boldly went where no man has gone" lol.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Headbanger/Popes of Hell
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And if its not an issue...Id like to move this to Builds/Mods/Fabrication since its FAR from stock or within a newbie's talents....I'll even sticky it in there....
well, maybe you should put in in the "Evolution for all" thread? after all Kanuck's VN750 has now "evolved". just saying.....lol
 

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Super Moderator
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that reminds me of another kawasaki that had an external alt.

an early (dont remember the year) voyager 12. 1200cc inline water cooled 4. had the alt kinda between the bank of carbs and the block if I remember right. dont remember if belt or gear drive tho.

mid 80's it appears to be the one I was looking at, maybe 87 or 88
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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ass hole extaordinaire
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i love the idea man but i think when i get around to doing this i want to do it a little different something wolfie turned me on to so forward controls will still be an option
 

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Awesome Job!!
I am glad you had the nads to try this and prove to all it can be done...lol
I was wondering when someone was going to try this, but I wasn't expecting it to be done on a such a "pretty" bike.

Excellent job...thanks for sharing!:smiley_th
 
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