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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '06' that had been driving me crazy with a metalic rattle
at around 3100rpm. I was told it was the acct and needed the
Grambol trick. I finally traced it to the throttle cables slapping
around. I ended up buying some heat resistant wire wrapping
from NAPA and covered the cables. No more rattle.
 

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had similar noise problem on my wifes bike, they were hitting the speedo when i hit a bump and sounded like the fender was falling off.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I figured it out. The throttle cables weren't the main problem. I noticed the
rattle was most noticable with a full tank of gas. It would ease and stop as the fuel
went down. It must be the float in the tank that rattles at full - half tank. Don't
know how to fix it, but I can live with it now that I know where it's comming from.
 

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ok, that explains it, i forgot about that one, a kaw wrench said that the petcock rattles as the vacumm pulsates from the carb, then i deduce, it may be more pronounced with the greater pressure at a full tank. mine and my wifes also buzz at certain speeds, i just decided the wrench was right and blamed it on the petcock auto fuel cut off.
:)

and for bills question, no they werent loose, just real close to the tach housing, and when wind pressed them back, they make a slapping sound at times...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Beavis,
Great pictures. You've also done most of the things I plan to do in the future.
I hope you don't mind some questions that I'm sure I'll have. That's a great 700
you picked up for the wife. She's a lucky gal.
 

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Hiya,

I was at my wits end and resorting to the "kick the tire" mentality... A few weeks ago, my bike quit starting - had to push start it. When I got it running, the idle was completely screwed up. W/the choke on, it would fluctuate, and off, it would just konk out unless I had the idle up to 2K or higher... and then there was the engine noise coming from the front, left when the engine idled that high or I revved it to keep it running at a light.

This past weekend, I took all the wonderful advice I received from folks like you all and went to work on fixing the start problem first. Off came the seat. Off came the gas tank. One by one, I eliminated the possible causes for my bikes 'no start' issue. Nothin' was working. I kicked the tire once more, and then started putting everything back together so I could push start it and ride on down to the shop (man, I hate defeat!!). When I went to put the tank back on, I noticed the grommet thingy on the left side was missing, so I combed the grass where I'd set it - nada. I searched a 30 foot radius around my bike - 3 times... nothing. Did it mysteriously disappear? Was it on there in the first place? If it was, how in the h*** did it come off?? Anyway, in the true spirit of survival and luck, I found a foam roller in my friend’s tool box that had the same diameters, so I cut a piece to fit. It worked perfectly.

It was right when I stood up that it hit me – clutch switch?? Seriously doubting this could be the start problem, I gave it a whirl. Shazam and Bonsai!! The switch was broken. With the help of a paperclip, I bypassed the switch and she fired right up. And this brings me to why I responded to this posting…

I trimmed the paperclip down and taped it up till I can replace the switch, and then took it for a test ride. THE ENGINE NOISE WAS GONE AND THE IDLE WAS MORE LIKE PURRING! I haven’t had anymore problems mentioned above since (thank god!!). My female-rookie hypothesis – a tank that’s not secure could possibly a) make a metal/metal noise that might sound like it’s from the engine, and b) have enough (although slight) movement to randomly pinch a fuel [intake] hose to cause an irregular idle. Conclusion – don’t jump to any conclusions when trying to analyze a problem… one problem may be the cause of others and be totally unrelated. I know I’m eons behind having the experience and knowledge a lot of you guys (and hopefully gals) have in this group, but it’s all about learning and sharing. … so, how DID I lose a grommet??? ;)

ione
 

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maybe it was never there? a problem left over form the last time the tank was off or was originally assembled. not sure about pinching a hose, but if the clutch switch was barly working, then that would make the engine run bad when in gear and the kickstand was down, or maybe any time, not sure how it is wired, but i know it will kill the engine if released in gear with the stand down.


but glad to hear you got it going.

:)
 

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Ok Bill, I just figured out what my rattle was at the exact RPMs that you mentioned. I lifted the tank to the left and had my son hold it, that way I didn't have to disconnect the fuel lines, watch the vacuum line from the carb to the fuel valve, it may come off, mine did. Now to the rattle. It was the clamp holding the coolant hose to the coolant tube, the tightning screw was straight up at 12 o'clock vibrating against the tank, I loosened the clamp, moved it at 6 o'clock and the rattle is gone. I hopes that helps.

Mike


billhig said:
Where were they loose? I've been hunting fo r anoise between 3500 and 4000 RPM all summer.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Sgt Mike,

I'll check the clamp tonight. I did have a question about the T/S beeper
you installed. Was it difficult and where is the relay located? I looked at it
on-line and it looks like there is a wire provided. Where would that connect to?
I always forget to turn mine off.

Greg
 

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Easy to install. It's located under the seat near the fuel tank. I left the factory T/S relay on the bike. I used the factory plug and wire tied the T/S Beeper to the frame at that area, the sound comes out between the seat and the frame. The wire provided is a ground, just fasten it to any convenient screw that's attached to the frame.



accord_guy said:
Thanks Sgt Mike,

I'll check the clamp tonight. I did have a question about the T/S beeper
you installed. Was it difficult and where is the relay located? I looked at it
on-line and it looks like there is a wire provided. Where would that connect to?
I always forget to turn mine off.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Billhig,

Is the rattle all the time or just when the tank is over half full?
I think mine is the gas tank float when the tank is full to 3/4.
 

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Mine was more pronounced when the tank was full, because of the added weight I suspect. Did you check the clamp yet? It could be the fuel tank sending unit gauge, but I doubt it, they haven't been knowned to be troublesome.


accord_guy said:
Billhig,

Is the rattle all the time or just when the tank is over half full?
I think mine is the gas tank float when the tank is full to 3/4.
 

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I checked the hose clamp and that isn't it. I don't remember any coorrelation between the fuel tank level and the noise. The bike does have to be really warmed up first (10-15 miles).

I can't check anything since it hasn't stopped raining for 8 days now.

Bill
 

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I finally found it. The airvalve under the seat was knocking around. A quick tywrap to the frame and I rode it 60 miles without a sound.


Bill
 

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Re: Engine rattle at RPM

Glad you found it Bill, I know rattles can be quite worrysome


billhig said:
I finally found it. The airvalve under the seat was knocking around. A quick tywrap to the frame and I rode it 60 miles without a sound.


Bill
 

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Score 2 for Sgt Mike.

Had the same rattle for my 2003 VN750. After reading Sgt Mikes post I went out to the bike and could see exactly what he was talking about without taking the tank off. Yelled for the wife, took the 3 bolts out for the tank, lifted up and to the left slightly (didn't want to disconnect the vacuum line), had the wife hold the tank. Got a rachet w/socket and repositioned that hose clamp. Put it all back together real quick and took it for a 15 minute spin. Rattle gone! Whole procedure took 10 - 15 minutes max.

Bought my bike in Oct 2005 from a guy at work. He's a compulsive buyer. He bought it back in Sep 2003 and in 2 years put a whopping 216 miles on it!! Many thanx to Sgt Mike for hitting the nail on the head.
 

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Fixed my rattle too! thanks for the post.

Ok Bill, I just figured out what my rattle was at the exact RPMs that you mentioned. I lifted the tank to the left and had my son hold it, that way I didn't have to disconnect the fuel lines, watch the vacuum line from the carb to the fuel valve, it may come off, mine did. Now to the rattle. It was the clamp holding the coolant hose to the coolant tube, the tightning screw was straight up at 12 o'clock vibrating against the tank, I loosened the clamp, moved it at 6 o'clock and the rattle is gone. I hopes that helps.

Mike
I've been hunting an identical rattle for about 3 weeks. Swapped out acct for mcct, tested the petcock issue by pinching the vacuum hose, but still a rattle from 3500 rpms and above. While doing some highway riding I laid down over the tank and realized that I could dampen the noise, so I knew it had to be coming from either the float in the tank or something vibrating on the tank. The next day I took off the tank and leaned it to the left and saw that the clamp holding the coolant hose was just like you said (twelve o'clock) and I could see where it was rubbing against the tank. Loosened it, turned it, bolted the tank back on and marvelous silence!, except the beautiful noise of the motor. THANK YOU!
 
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