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Proud Owner of '99 VN 750
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128 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone!, I have two main questions and I've scouted over many threads with information to find my questions unanswerable so I'm calling on my fellow riders. That Being said, Below are the facts and below the facts are my Questions. Thank you very much for your continued Support.

Facts: The Bike is a 1999 Kawasaki Vulcan 750A , I use Ethanol free 93 Octane fuel, The plugs are DPR7EIX-9 (less then 100 miles ago), I use Rotella T6 5w40 (Change every 2k miles, last change less then 100 miles ago). I live in in the South in Louisiana and the weather currently is around 75 with the usual humidity regardless of heat.

Question 1: I've read many threads with conversation regarding oil weight and type. That being said I won't be starting any debates but I have a worry which I'm sure could be lightened up. I'm currently using Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic oil in the bike and I change it every 2,000 miles (i know its early but I prefer it this way). The MFR calls for 10w40 as is written on the filler cap on the bike. I hear a ticking noise (which is said here is perfectly normal which tells you its working fine) after the bike has warmed up, this noise feels damaging to me as its semi-loud and the bike heats up more after this ticking starts. and only at non-revving speed such as idling or with the clutch pulled in completely. I'm aware that season as well as location play a factor in oil selection though I love the protection of Rotella t6 they only carry this weight. Ideas?

Question 2: I read a post that stated MFR requires 87 octane but on my bike it still has a sticker that says 93 octane only. So naturally I use ethanol free fuel in order to keep the bike in perfect clean shape. Can someone possibly tell me that this is the correct method?
 

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Super Moderator
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12,036 Posts
Rottella T6 is a perfectly good oil to use. Like half the folks here use it, but there's no reason to change it that early. Synthetic takes longer to break down than organic oil, but can still get dirty. 3-4000 miles between changes is fine. Change your filter with every oil change too.

The bike runs fine on Regular gas. Even 10%ethonal causes no real damage as long as the bike isn't sitting for long periods. The 93 rating you see is a diffrent scale than what is used in the US. Premium gas gives you no extra power, costs you more and in fact can be increasing carbon build up in your engine. Use regular 87-89 octane fuel.

Your ticking sound is likely your ACCT's... There's several threads on adjusting these or even installing manual cam chain tensioners.
Search "Grambo Trick"...
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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4,508 Posts
Rottella T6 is a perfectly good oil to use. Like half the folks here use it, but there's no reason to change it that early. Synthetic takes longer to break down than organic oil, but can still get dirty. 3-4000 miles between changes is fine. Change your filter with every oil change too.

The bike runs fine on Regular gas. Even 10%ethonal causes no real damage as long as the bike isn't sitting for long periods. The 93 rating you see is a diffrent scale than what is used in the US. Premium gas gives you no extra power, costs you more and in fact can be increasing carbon build up in your engine. Use regular 87-89 octane fuel.

Your ticking sound is likely your ACCT's... There's several threads on adjusting these or even installing manual cam chain tensioners.
Search "Grambo Trick"...
Km, My pre-thoughts exactly ! :smiley_th :smiley_th
 

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Proud Owner of '99 VN 750
Joined
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128 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Rottella T6 is a perfectly good oil to use. Like half the folks here use it, but there's no reason to change it that early. Synthetic takes longer to break down than organic oil, but can still get dirty. 3-4000 miles between changes is fine. Change your filter with every oil change too.

The bike runs fine on Regular gas. Even 10%ethonal causes no real damage as long as the bike isn't sitting for long periods. The 93 rating you see is a diffrent scale than what is used in the US. Premium gas gives you no extra power, costs you more and in fact can be increasing carbon build up in your engine. Use regular 87-89 octane fuel.

Your ticking sound is likely your ACCT's... There's several threads on adjusting these or even installing manual cam chain tensioners.
Search "Grambo Trick"...
I did read about the ACCT's but I belived this bike was shaft driven, would it have a chain? Also I do change the filter everytime (should have mentioned) I use a K&N filter (same price as just about any other for me)
 

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Super Moderator
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2,580 Posts
the bike is shaft drive.

the chains in question drive the valve gear in the engine (2 cams per head, 2 chains per cylinder)
 

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Proud Owner of '99 VN 750
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128 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
the bike is shaft drive.

the chains in question drive the valve gear in the engine (2 cams per head, 2 chains per cylinder)
Thank you very much I will look into this procedure and do it right away then post the results immediately :)
 

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Proud Owner of '99 VN 750
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128 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
All done, results are still the same. Just to be sure there is only only ACCT on the bike right? I'm considering replacing it due to the bolt not staying secure the way I'd like it to. I Took it off, grabbed a small flathead turning the ACCT clockwise until i heard the valve tap and then all the way CCW until there was good tension , released it, put it back together. all while running, the noise still in existence. For good measure replacing the entire ACCT and researching any other reasons the bike would tap like so. Once again I only found the one on the left side of the bike (sitting on the bike) on the front cylinder. Can't see any rear one
 

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Super Moderator
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2,580 Posts
There are 2 ACCT's. one for each cylinder.

one on rear cylinder is kinda hiding behind the coolant bottle.


after you turned the screw ccw, if you just released it, it will spring back into place (they are spring loaded). if you had to turn it in, something wrong there, probably broken spring, or the screw/plunger is gummed up.
 

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Jack of all trades
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2,863 Posts
There is one per cylinder. The rear one is behind the coolant overflow bottle. A lot of people also replace the ACCTs with MCCTs because they don't have springs that wear out.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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4,508 Posts
Copy & Paste fyi Total Cost: $6.00 - $10.00

ACCT to MCCT conversion video
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18235

ACCT to MCCT Conversion Thread created by wib714
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917

There are a couple of threads on here on how to convert a ACCT to a MCCT. I know one members said he'd get a video put up here, but I went ahead and did a video of the MCCT I created.

Supplies needed:
1. 6mm x 40 bolt
2. 2 6mm nuts
3. 1 6mm Locking Washer
4. 1 #12 x 5/8 bonded washer

Parts not needed:
1. Sleeve
2. Spring
3. Flat Washer

I did this on my bike yesterday to the rear cylinder and front cylinder, and they both quit knocking after the conversion. I took the front one off to do this video. I love that we are able to do this conversion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY4IEHVqtoY

:smiley_th
 

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Proud Owner of '99 VN 750
Joined
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128 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
alright the rear cylinder one leaked out abit after i removed the bolt (i hear this is fine stuff gets "collected" I resprung it. it felt alot different then the one for the front cylinder. the front felt like teeth when i turned it CW and CCW/ So i guess that means its bad lol. Also the sound continued even after i resprung the rear ACCT. As far as doing the MCCT I will buy the TOC kit that I've been seeing on this forum. Everyone swears by its quality (not to say the 5-10 dollar one isnt possibly better) but replacing all the parts on top of different material seems better. One question. When removing the ACCT I have a 99 VN750A. Do I have to take the motor out >.> Please say no (then answer correctly ) lol. Thanks again for the continued support guys!
 

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Super Moderator
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2,580 Posts
nope, dont have to remove the motor... simple job.

2 bolts on each, and I believe an o-ring which comes out with it.

Front one will have the external oil line attached... most people just carefully bent the tab out of the way and leave it that way
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
Joined
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4,508 Posts
nope, dont have to remove the motor... simple job.

2 bolts on each, and I believe an o-ring which comes out with it.

Front one will have the external oil line attached... most people just carefully bent the tab out of the way and leave it that way
...and the right cylinder acct is behind the Coolant Res.....a few issues/options exist when reattaching the Coolant Res. ....some remold the res. to accommodate mcct, others use a spacer/lonnger bolt.
btw: TOC's do not have this issue.

hth

:smiley_th
 
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