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Discussion Starter #1
So I have some noise coming from the cylinders that to me seems like it might be too much. It's not the cam chains tapping/rattling. I have a set of TOC manual tensions on the bike and have them tightened slightly past where the chain noise stops, but I'm still getting a whirling sound. I can keep tightening the mccts to the point that the engine wants to stall out and the noise is still present.
I've taken a recording of the noise as an example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgWeso6KViU&feature=plcp

Any thoughts? Is this normal noise, or do I have some issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, noise is still there when I pull in the clutch lever. Sounds like it comes from the jugs/cylinders, but it doesn't sound like the chain making the noise. I'll be changing the oil soon so I'll look to see if there are any bits in the oil.
My first oil change, there were a good bit of metal shavings on the oil screen, but I attributed that at the time to the previous owner never changing the oil from that plug but rather the plug on the bottom center of the engine case. So hopefully, the screen will be mostly clean this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ouch, was hoping not to hear something like that. I imagine that being the issue, there's no way to change the bearings without splitting the case?

Edit: N/m was think crankshaft when I first read that. Still not an easy job to replace I would think.

at least it'll give me a good opportunity to derust and repaint the frame.
 

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Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
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Ouch, was hoping not to hear something like that. I imagine that being the issue, there's no way to change the bearings without splitting the case?

Edit: N/m was think crankshaft when I first read that. Still not an easy job to replace I would think.

at least it'll give me a good opportunity to derust and repaint the frame.
Camshaft is worse- I think there are no "bearings;" the bearing surface is actually the head itself! The head and retainer have to be milled down, assembled and line-bored/honed to fix. Still cheaper than $600+ per head to replace with new. I was surprised to find out that a lot of bikes are made this way. If it were me I would wait on it, unless if you see more metal in the screen. You will want to cut your filter apart and check as well. Keep your tensioners as loose as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Camshaft is worse- I think there are no "bearings;" the bearing surface is actually the head itself! The head and retainer have to be milled down, assembled and line-bored/honed to fix. Still cheaper than $600+ per head to replace with new. I was surprised to find out that a lot of bikes are made this way. If it were me I would wait on it, unless if you see more metal in the screen. You will want to cut your filter apart and check as well. Keep your tensioners as loose as you can.

Well, Thanks for the information. I'll check the oil screen and filter on my next change which at this point I think I'll do early for the piece of mind. Hopefully I won't see much new metal in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Planning o changing the oil today to see if I've got a mess of metal shaving in the filter and on the oil screen.
Assuming that I DO have a mess of metal there, I'll be pulling the engine to check out the heads and see what the cam bearings look like.

What are the odds of me being able to get the camshaft cap off and back on without disturbing the cam positions/timing? I'd like to check the clearance with some plastigauge but hoping I can get away with not removing the side covers to save having to replace the gaskets. I see in the manual that the front head cover can be removed without an engine pull. Is it remotely possible to get enough clearance to get the rear head cover off without pulling the engine?

Although, this would also be the perfect opportunity to do the tuxedo mod for possible future stator failure.

Also, on the chance that I don't see any metal shavings, or that the cam bearing clearance checks out, any other ideas on what the issue may be? Anything I can/should check for first that might be simple before going through the headache of engine removal?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tore into the bike today to get the front head cover off. Thing looked to be in immaculate condition, almost brand new. It almost looks like someone may have replaced the heads at some point, but I guess I have no way to know that.

any ways, with how the front head looks, I'm doubtful that the problem is the cam bearings going bad. I didn't see a single spec of metal at all, and every thing was super tight, timing was spot on. Granted, I couldn't look at the rear head, but with how nice everything else has been on the bike, I suspect (assume) that it's going to be in the same condition as the front.

Anyone have any other guesses as to what the noise in hearing is?
 

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My 2 cents worth. The VN750 engine is a noisy engine, plain and simple. Much louder than most v-twins. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My 2 cents worth. The VN750 engine is a noisy engine, plain and simple. Much louder than most v-twins. JMO
Considering that I can't actually find anything wrong. (obviously a good thing) I'm starting to think now that I'm just overreacting. Granted, it would be helpful if I had another running VN750 to compare with.
 

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gun slinger
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mine rattles above 3K rpms i havent seen any metal in the screen yet, i dont know what it is . it sounds like a timing chain rattle but only on slight throttle if i let go of the throttle it goes away . its deffentley something in the front cylinder ratteling
 
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