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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I unplugged the kickstand and tried with it unplugged and a jumper wire in the pigtail. Same result. Put in gear and ignition cuts as soon as I start to release the cutch. So bypassed the clutch switch with a jumper wire and it started and ran fine. Perhaps the clutch switch was the problem afterall? Im going to try to take it out tomorrow and see if everything works again
 

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I unplugged the kickstand and tried with it unplugged and a jumper wire in the pigtail. Same result. Put in gear and ignition cuts as soon as I start to release the cutch. So bypassed the clutch switch with a jumper wire and it started and ran fine. Perhaps the clutch switch was the problem afterall? Im going to try to take it out tomorrow and see if everything works again
It's the sidestand, jumping the clutch switch disabled the function. It behaves as if the clutch is always pulled.
 

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Looks like I led you astray earlier. I went back and looked over the 2-wire mod and schematic, and the "kill the engine" circuit is still very much in effect after the 2-wire mod. The 2-wire mod only bypasses the starter relay (helpful when the relay dies) but has the side-effect of letting your starter motor crank when in gear. It has nothing to do with anything once the engine is running.

Expected behavior when running:
When side-stand is up, the bike should stay running regardless of gear or clutch lever position. If the bike dies in ANY gear/clutch position, the side stand switch is not working properly, and the switch, JB pins, and grounding should be checked.

If the sidestand is down, the engine should die if the bike is either not in neutral, or the clutch is not pulled.
If you're in neutral (neutral light illuminated indicates the neutral ground is good) and the bike dies when you release the clutch, then the clutch switch is not properly connecting your igniter to ground. The neutral switch is a double-pole switch, so it might work in one position (provides good connection from IC to ground when clutch is pulled), but not the other (does not properly connect the IC to the good ground at the neutral switch).
 

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Got around to checking mine today. With the Two-Wire mod, it dies if the sidestand is down, in gear and letting the clutch out.

It's still good to have the two wire mod though, prevents future problems in the Junction Box.

Can't believe this agm battery will be at least 9 years old in November, and it still cranks right up. My battery tender died a long time ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Got around to checking mine today. With the Two-Wire mod, it dies if the sidestand is down, in gear and letting the clutch out.

It's still good to have the two wire mod though, prevents future problems in the Junction Box.

Can't believe this agm battery will be at least 9 years old in November, and it still cranks right up. My battery tender died a long time ago.
Thanks so still leaning towards the sidestand switch issue then .
 

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The nuclear option if you can't track down the faulty switch wiring is to connect the IC directly to ground before it hits the JB.

Remove the Black/White wire on the 10-pin connector of the JB and run it to ground.
 
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