Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

Engine Clicking / Ticking?

6K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Andrewr 
#1 ·
Greetings all,

Still very new to this engine stuff. I heard a worrying noise yesterday, and not sure if it is something that I should be concerned about.
The noise is a very distinct clicking/ticking noise when the bike is idling, yet is inconsistent, and does not seem to be very apparent after the bike has been moving a little - I got my phone out and recorded the bike hopefully you can hear the noise that I am talking about - and perhaps identify it for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R25W_LX9CE

Hope this youtube embedding thing works and is legal within the forums.

This is a 87 750 - 35000 miles. I have had it for 500 miles, and other than coolant, oil, and plugs, have not done anything.

Thanks
Andrew
 
#2 ·
Probably ACCTs acting up. Do a search for Grambo Trick or look for it in the Vulcan Verses. Replace the worn springs, which is a short term solution, or go with MCCTs, which is pretty much permanent.
 
#3 ·
www.tocmanufacturing for springs or mcct's, about 50 bucks each or follow the link in my sig line and build your own for about 6 bucks each. no matter which way you go its a quick and easy procedure just be sure if you replace the springs not to overtighten the cap nut on the acct!
 
#4 ·
definately the springs. I heard that noise before.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Hey all,
thank you for replying -
Looking at Wib's mcct link you have a parts list, You mention 1 of each of the parts - but further down somebody said they did the front and rear. Does this mean that there are 2 of these things that I gotta do? Also Wib, did you every get your process on video? I am a very cautious mechanic - Not even sure I could call myself that. If there is the process on video, I can understand that.

Thanks
Andrew

So I think I answered the 2 of these question - I just found 2 on my bike - 1 hiding by the coolant bottle, and the other on the other side.
I will buy some parts tomorrow - and try not to break anything :)
 
#8 ·
the MCCT conversion si very simple.. two TOC MCCTs one for the front cylinder and one for the rear.. the front one is easy to get to, the rear is a little harder... seeing as you are a cautious wrencher anticipate 45 minute max to do it. You will probably get it done in a matter of 15-20 minutes... no need to drain the oil, but if you are already going to do it.. perfect time to replace them while you are waiting for the oil to drain.
 
#9 ·
It's a funny coincidence how the video is centered around the ACCT most of the time
 
#13 ·
Help!!!

Okay - I had to get allen head bolts cause the local ace hardware did not have #6 hex heads.
I have gotten the rear acct off - that was a little tight, but after I took the coolant tank off - it was easy. the front has some sort of bracket that is holding onto it on the back screw.
It seems to be soldered onto a steel cable or something. I Will not be able to take this acct off without cutting or breaking the bracket.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Andrew
 
#15 ·
Okay - I had to get allen head bolts cause the local ace hardware did not have #6 hex heads.
I have gotten the rear acct off - that was a little tight, but after I took the coolant tank off - it was easy. the front has some sort of bracket that is holding onto it on the back screw.
It seems to be soldered onto a steel cable or something. I Will not be able to take this acct off without cutting or breaking the bracket.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Andrew
That chrome tube with the bracket is the oil line. Don`t damage it.
Take the bolt out, then bend the bracket so it points straight out.
You don`t need to bend it back as the oil tube has plenty of support w/o it.
But if you feel the need, put a little 1", 90* shelf bracket in there to attach it back down to the ACCT.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Set screw to hold ACCT adjuster in place.

I've been away for a while and what's the first post I read? ACCT!

I just did this in my garage this morning so I'd like to share with you all:

Cost: $5.47 drill and tap in a set from Home Depot. Size 10-24.
Stainless 10-24 screw $.99
Time: about an hour

Procedure:
Remove ACCT and disassemble.
Drill hole with bit provided in set. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DRILL THE HOLE WHERE THE INTERNAL SPRING RIDES!
Tap the hole. Be careful, the metal is CRAP.
Clean out ACCT body and re-assemble (look for info on vn750 to make the job easier).
Mount the ACCT on the engine following Kawasaki's procedure (!important!).
Warm up the engine and adjust the ACCT so that no clicky clicky sounds can be heard.
Tighten the set screw gently. BTW, I used loctite on the threads for security and an oil seal.

The weather is crappy here so It'll be a few days before I can give it a good test.
Tell me what you all think?
 
#16 ·
The set screw is an interesting concept dt. Report back after a few hundred miles, or a few thousand, and let us know how it is working.
 
#18 ·
Phew!!!

Well - Thanks you you guys - especially for Wib - Thank you. The bike is purring like a hungry tiger. Not that I have been close enough to a hungry tiger to know what one sounds like - but I am guessing it would sound like a really aggressive purring kitten :)

No clicking and ticking anymore - just having a problem with getting the coolant tank back in again, the bolt on that side is hassling with the coolant tank - I am thinking that I should just get a longer bolt for the coolant tank.

Thanks again everyone.

Andrew
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top