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Discussion Starter #1
The last two days I have gone for a ride my VN750 it has began to act up once the engine has been ran at highway speed for about 10 minutes. The engine cuts out just for a brief second repeatedly over and over and backfires a lot. It really makes the bike jerk a lot and the tach needle jumps from 4-5K real erratic. I noticed tonight that when it starts happening if I turn on the turn signals it aggervates the problem. The turn signal indicator lamp also flashes real erratic rather than flashing smoothly. It almost seems as if there is an electrical short that is causing the problem. Also, after an episode of this when I get the bike home and park it for a few minutes the oil and neutal lights don't come on when I turn the key to on. The first time this happened I thought maybe a fuse had blown so I checked all the fuses and none were bad. I let the bike set for about an hour and then tried the key again and everything was fine. Anybody have any ideas on this one?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did a quick visual inspection and they were tight and there were no visible signs of corrosion but I think I will take them loose and clean under the connections just to make sure. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

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The Professor
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The last two days I have gone for a ride my VN750 it has began to act up once the engine has been ran at highway speed for about 10 minutes. The engine cuts out just for a brief second repeatedly over and over and backfires a lot. It really makes the bike jerk a lot and the tach needle jumps from 4-5K real erratic. I noticed tonight that when it starts happening if I turn on the turn signals it aggervates the problem. The turn signal indicator lamp also flashes real erratic rather than flashing smoothly. It almost seems as if there is an electrical short that is causing the problem. Also, after an episode of this when I get the bike home and park it for a few minutes the oil and neutal lights don't come on when I turn the key to on. The first time this happened I thought maybe a fuse had blown so I checked all the fuses and none were bad. I let the bike set for about an hour and then tried the key again and everything was fine. Anybody have any ideas on this one?
Check all battery and ground connections but it sounds like the ignition switch is the problem.

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14214&highlight=ignition+switch
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I thought it might possibly be the ignition switch but the bike is an 05 with only 1600 miles on it that has always been in a garage and never ridden in the rain. I guess it could have some corrosion though. If the ground connections do not help then my next step is to dissasemble the IG Sw and clean it. Thanks for the suggestions!
 

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The Professor
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I thought it might possibly be the ignition switch but the bike is an 05 with only 1600 miles on it that has always been in a garage and never ridden in the rain. I guess it could have some corrosion though. If the ground connections do not help then my next step is to dissasemble the IG Sw and clean it. Thanks for the suggestions!
Since it is that new I would check All the connectors in the HL nacell and check the ignition switch connector by the neck.
 

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Rogue Warrior
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I thought it might possibly be the ignition switch but the bike is an 05 with only 1600 miles on it that has always been in a garage and never ridden in the rain. I guess it could have some corrosion though. If the ground connections do not help then my next step is to dissasemble the IG Sw and clean it. Thanks for the suggestions!
It sounds like the ignition to me also. Could be a loose wire inside the "hockey puck", most likely the white wire that connects at 2 points.
Yup, you guessed it, I had that problem with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I checked and cleaned all of the ground points. I am going to tear into the keyswitch hockey puck this weekend. Everyting is dead as a door nail. I am thinking broken wire at the keyswitch. I will also check the connectors in the headlamp housing. Thanks to all for the advice!!
 

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Have you ever done a systems check with a battery charger that has the ability to check the stator output and battery level? It sounds like the battery has a dead cell.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Well I pulled the key switch and checked the solder connections they were fine. I pulled the hockey puck and checked and cleaned the contacts inside. Actually they were fine but I stretched the spring a bit to make sure that everything was making good contact. I checked all the connectors in the headlight housing and they were fine. I did find that the connector to the R/R had a bit of melting in the top two left wire pin connections but metered them and they were fine for continuity. I am wondering if the R/R has gone belly up. When I turn on the key switch the dashboard is dead in terms of anything lighting up. Lance, you suggested cheking the ignition switch connector by the neck. Not sure what you mean by the neck? Any other suggestions anyone has will be welcome. I am at a loss......

Baldy, I hope the battery doesn't have a dead cell. It is a new AGM battery that I put in the bike in March.
 

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The Professor
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Well I pulled the key switch and checked the solder connections they were fine. I pulled the hockey puck and checked and cleaned the contacts inside. Actually they were fine but I stretched the spring a bit to make sure that everything was making good contact. I checked all the connectors in the headlight housing and they were fine. I did find that the connector to the R/R had a bit of melting in the top two left wire pin connections but metered them and they were fine for continuity. I am wondering if the R/R has gone belly up. When I turn on the key switch the dashboard is dead in terms of anything lighting up. Lance, you suggested cheking the ignition switch connector by the neck. Not sure what you mean by the neck? Any other suggestions anyone has will be welcome. I am at a loss......

Baldy, I hope the battery doesn't have a dead cell. It is a new AGM battery that I put in the bike in March.
At the neck under the left front of the fuel tank is is the connector for the switch, you will have to remove the fuel tank.

First make sure the battery has 12.5 volts, then remove the right cover beside the battery and make sure the white wire w/red tracer is connected and all fuses afre good. If all is good then remove the tank and check all connectors. :beerchug:
 

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Cool that eliminates the battery. I had somewhat of a similar problem with the R/R with melted connectors and also some burnt wiring. Possably an issue with the alternator and maybe the r/r was putting out a lot of juice to compensate and melted wires? I also had an issue with the fuse box burning out the headlight connection inside and had to replace the fuse box twice before I realized the alternator was crapping out and the r/r was melting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After much wire tracing (connecting, disconnecting and metering of wiring and the battery voltage) I finally figured out that the voltage retulator must have gone out fried a cell in the battery. At one time during the process the dash lights came on but went back off as soon as I tried to turn on a turn signal. I measured the voltage at the batt and it was under 11 volts. As I kept on metering the battery voltage sagged anywhere from 11 volts down to millivolts anytime I put a load on it. I took the AGM battery out and put the lead acid battery back in, turned on the key and everything lit up! As I mentioned in an earlier post I had noticed that the connector to the R/R was melted a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh, forgot to ask, does anyone know if a John Deere M70121 / Kawasaki 210066-2056 / Shindengen SH578-12 regulator will work on the VN750. I see them for sale on ebay and they look just like the one on my bike.
 

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The Professor
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Oh, forgot to ask, does anyone know if a John Deere M70121 / Kawasaki 210066-2056 / Shindengen SH578-12 regulator will work on the VN750. I see them for sale on ebay and they look just like the one on my bike.
One of the three below will work on our bikes.

SH555-12
SH658-12
SH650A-12

Which AGM battery do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The AGM bat is a MotoBatt Quadflex Model MBT14AU with 4 battery posts. I bought it on line for about $69 including free shipping.
 

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From your description it did sound like the R/R or the battery so I was partly correct on both. I like it when I get things right. lol You have done a bit of wire inspection and haven't found any burnt wires so you caught the problem way before I did. Hell it even fried the wires on my headlight pigtail.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Baldy and Lance - thanks for sticking with me on this one! I appreciate the help! I will let you know how things turn out when I receive the parts and install them. I am missing some really stellar riging weather here in central Illinois this weekend. It is killing me!
 
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