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Discussion Starter #1
So my running light, all of them front and back no longer work properly. They only turn on when the brake light should.

Let me explain what I have done.

I just replaced all my lights with LEDs. In the front it was just plug and go.

In the rear, I replaced brake light with an LED and the rear TS got relocated to the license plate holder and got some LED that also have red running lights and brake lights (as well as amber flashers.) This obviously required a lot of wiring, which I know I did correctly because it all worked fine after installation. I tapped into the Blue wire from the tail light for the brake light, and the red light for the running lights. I also changed the relay to a LED Flasher Relay.

So I figure, 1 of 2 scenarios...

1) Grounding out-probably somewhere I wired since I didn't mess with the existing grounds.

2) Running Light wires somehow got crossed with brake light wire. I only suspect this because the way I wired the extra wires from the rear TS pass through a very tight spot and maybe the insulation wore off and they are touching?.?

Anyone have any suggestions how I should proceed? I am thinking about redoing all the wiring and getting rid of the bullet connections with some 3 or 4 wire connectors (depending on if they are for front or rear), and bundling everything from all the lights to make it nice and neat.
 

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First things first. To start out you need to check all your wiring. the thing I don't understand is you said it all worked right and now it don't. You might have a bad crimp connection that's touching a brake wire. it's really hard to say not knowing what you did or how you did it.. Also, forget about using connectors on bikes. I was in the 12 volt line of work for 20 years.. on Boats, Bikes and high end cars I never used anything but solder and heat shrink.. I also used that on any Alarm or big stereo be it a Chevy or Lambo. Returns cost me money and I never seen a bad solder connection but many bad crimps over the years. Where in NJ are you? if you're close I could offer up some help.. I'm in Rockaway
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow, I am in Morris Plains. I really wouldn't be opposed to some help.

..I did solder my connections then use heat shrink, but I kept the connectors that were on there.

Anyway, if you wanted to help, that would be awesome. shoot me a PM and we can work out the details.
 

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First things first. To start out you need to check all your wiring. the thing I don't understand is you said it all worked right and now it don't. You might have a bad crimp connection that's touching a brake wire. it's really hard to say not knowing what you did or how you did it.. Also, forget about using connectors on bikes. I was in the 12 volt line of work for 20 years.. on Boats, Bikes and high end cars I never used anything but solder and heat shrink.. I also used that on any Alarm or big stereo be it a Chevy or Lambo. Returns cost me money and I never seen a bad solder connection but many bad crimps over the years. Where in NJ are you? if you're close I could offer up some help.. I'm in Rockaway
There you go! Someone with the right skills ,close by and willing to help .I doesn't get any better:smiley_th
 

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PM sent.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just goes to show you why should always check the easiest thing first.

I spent 2 hours last night rewiring everything from the wiring harness that travels back into the fender. Then I rewired the front TS into the headlight bucket early this morning.

After about 40 feet of wire and like 20 solder points and heat shrink, I decided to check the fuses.

DOH!

ALWAYS CHECK THE OBVIOUS FIRST!!!
 
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