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1. Cory, there are a couple of other things to check before suspecting the alternator, which is definitely still working at least partially. Some of the things to look at (if you haven't already):
Check the bullet connectors in the alternator leads behind the engine. They should be tight and uncorroded. They've been known to be a source of problems. If they are a bit loose one might be creating a poor connection when warm. Could be a reason for the higher charge voltage with a cold engine.
Check the ground connection and cable on the battery. Could you have any corrosion in the J box? One of the yellow leads from the alternator also goes there as well as the R/R. It's for the relay that keeps the headlight off until the bike starts. It may possibly be grounded. Battery acid getting into the J box is a known problem. A partial (or complete) ground here could be a problem. There may be other things to check, too, but that's what I can think of right now. MokiMan
2. Also check the positive battery cables/connections on the battery posts, of course, then follow the heavy red cable from the battery over to the starter solenoid (right side cover). Make sure that's clean and tight. There's a red/white (I think) wire coming from there with a bullet connector make sure it's clean and tight too. Then clean all j box connectors. Watch for a follow up post about some changes I made to the r/r wiring. WV Ken
3. Have you checked out the fault finding diagram on Electrex's web site? It has an extremely useful step by step flow chart. See it at:
www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf
A: I'd start checking the condition of your wires/plugs around the frame head, or inside the headlight housing. I'd also focus attention on all the black and yellow stripe'd wires. You may find one disconnected or cut. These wires provide a ground for many switches and devices around the bike. Make sure you re-route the wires from interfering with the movement of the forks, left and right. Good Luck Lance
While reading that article from gYpSy that Bulldog mentioned, I saw this at the bottom of the page which I had not seen recommended in here yet when discussing shorts. It sounds like a good techique to use and we should recommend it when people are having battery issues..as well as the grounding technique that is also mentioned. RB
gYpSy's web site is at: http://ourworld.cs.com/Moonmist115/vulcanwebsite.html
excerpt from:
http://ourworld.cs.com/moonmist115/chargingproblems.html
Electrical shorts are usually due to a pinched wire where the crushed insulation of a "hot" (positive) lead is touching the metal frame components and draining off the battery, even when the bike is turned off. It's not enough drain-off to overheat and burn the fuse out, though...Typical crushed-wire points are: under the seat, under the gastank and behind the headlight. You can test for battery drain, even with the bike not running. Hook up a multimeter (analog or digital) that has at least 5 amps of DC Current-measuring capability (most do). Be sure to hook-up the leads to the multimeter properly--most Analog (older type) Multimeters require you to move the red lead to a special jack in the panel. Then with the battery NEGATIVE lead disconnected, touch the red probe of the multimeter to the battery harness wire and the black lead of the multimeter probe to the negative lead of the battery ("in series")--battery still disconnected from the harness--. IF you have any measurement of current at all needle moves, either something has been left turned on or you have an electrical short. Finding it is a patient process of elimination. Try pulling one fuse at a time from the junction box or wherever else you have installed aftermarket fuses and watch the meter to see if the current drops to zero. If that doesn't reveal the problem circuit, try pulling each wiring harness *connector* from components around the bike--start at junction box, then ignition module, etc. Sooner or later you'll discover what cicuit/where the short is and then you can focus on that area of the electrical system.
Check the bullet connectors in the alternator leads behind the engine. They should be tight and uncorroded. They've been known to be a source of problems. If they are a bit loose one might be creating a poor connection when warm. Could be a reason for the higher charge voltage with a cold engine.
Check the ground connection and cable on the battery. Could you have any corrosion in the J box? One of the yellow leads from the alternator also goes there as well as the R/R. It's for the relay that keeps the headlight off until the bike starts. It may possibly be grounded. Battery acid getting into the J box is a known problem. A partial (or complete) ground here could be a problem. There may be other things to check, too, but that's what I can think of right now. MokiMan
2. Also check the positive battery cables/connections on the battery posts, of course, then follow the heavy red cable from the battery over to the starter solenoid (right side cover). Make sure that's clean and tight. There's a red/white (I think) wire coming from there with a bullet connector make sure it's clean and tight too. Then clean all j box connectors. Watch for a follow up post about some changes I made to the r/r wiring. WV Ken
3. Have you checked out the fault finding diagram on Electrex's web site? It has an extremely useful step by step flow chart. See it at:
www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf
A: Electrical problem Usually if the igniter goes.. you don't! I am assuming that you replaced the junction box because of blown fuses? tail / brake lights and the speedo /tach lights are all connected to one fuse. Casuse for this counld be a short. Check all the wires to you light staring at the rear for possible wear or pinches in the insulation. I recently had no rear lights or speedo/tach lights due to a short in my sidecar taillight. replacing the fuse gave me lights ubtil I hit the right bump. Also clean the plunger on the kickstand switch to make sure it is moving freely and the tab on the kickstand dpresses it when it is down. In the files section there are a couple of tests you can do for the R/R and stator Files > Electrical and Lighting > RR & Stator Keep us posted. Dianna
A: I'd start checking the condition of your wires/plugs around the frame head, or inside the headlight housing. I'd also focus attention on all the black and yellow stripe'd wires. You may find one disconnected or cut. These wires provide a ground for many switches and devices around the bike. Make sure you re-route the wires from interfering with the movement of the forks, left and right. Good Luck Lance
While reading that article from gYpSy that Bulldog mentioned, I saw this at the bottom of the page which I had not seen recommended in here yet when discussing shorts. It sounds like a good techique to use and we should recommend it when people are having battery issues..as well as the grounding technique that is also mentioned. RB
gYpSy's web site is at: http://ourworld.cs.com/Moonmist115/vulcanwebsite.html
excerpt from:
http://ourworld.cs.com/moonmist115/chargingproblems.html
Electrical shorts are usually due to a pinched wire where the crushed insulation of a "hot" (positive) lead is touching the metal frame components and draining off the battery, even when the bike is turned off. It's not enough drain-off to overheat and burn the fuse out, though...Typical crushed-wire points are: under the seat, under the gastank and behind the headlight. You can test for battery drain, even with the bike not running. Hook up a multimeter (analog or digital) that has at least 5 amps of DC Current-measuring capability (most do). Be sure to hook-up the leads to the multimeter properly--most Analog (older type) Multimeters require you to move the red lead to a special jack in the panel. Then with the battery NEGATIVE lead disconnected, touch the red probe of the multimeter to the battery harness wire and the black lead of the multimeter probe to the negative lead of the battery ("in series")--battery still disconnected from the harness--. IF you have any measurement of current at all needle moves, either something has been left turned on or you have an electrical short. Finding it is a patient process of elimination. Try pulling one fuse at a time from the junction box or wherever else you have installed aftermarket fuses and watch the meter to see if the current drops to zero. If that doesn't reveal the problem circuit, try pulling each wiring harness *connector* from components around the bike--start at junction box, then ignition module, etc. Sooner or later you'll discover what cicuit/where the short is and then you can focus on that area of the electrical system.
Scott 
