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Most all fuels here in Bama say " Up 10% ethanol fuel" on the pumps. All the signs at stores here around my home that say "100 percent gasoline" want run in my tractor. Trash and water from it stop up my fuel/water bowl.
 

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Excellent write-up. Book marked to favorites for future use.
 

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awesome document and bible vrs in your quote!!! Gunna attempt this eventually. How long does it take? What level of mechanic do you need to be to do this? I'm not much of one...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
awesome document and bible vrs in your quote!!! Gunna attempt this eventually. How long does it take? What level of mechanic do you need to be to do this? I'm not much of one...
Thanks!

Getting the surge tank out will take the longest time...an hour or so. Rest is as easy as documented.
Good luck.
 

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I got started on my shave and then ended up pulling the engine to re-seat the valves, etc., etc. - kinda got stuck there and am slowly getting back to completing the work. Maybe I read your awesome write-up too quickly, but can you tell me again what I need to use for the crankcase breather? I think I bought a pod filter for that as well, but am beginning to think that isn't the right approach (also have two sets of carbs sitting in the garage and can't remember which one was adjusted for the shave...argh...gotta go look for spacers :doh:).
 

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I got started on my shave and then ended up pulling the engine to re-seat the valves, etc., etc. - kinda got stuck there and am slowly getting back to completing the work. Maybe I read your awesome write-up too quickly, but can you tell me again what I need to use for the crankcase breather? I think I bought a pod filter for that as well, but am beginning to think that isn't the right approach (also have two sets of carbs sitting in the garage and can't remember which one was adjusted for the shave...argh...gotta go look for spacers :doh:).
If you check his parts list at the begining you wil find he used two of these:
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=14-20900

One for the crankcase breather and one for the carb vent.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
If you check his parts list at the begining you wil find he used two of these:
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=14-20900

One for the crankcase breather and one for the carb vent.:)
I got started on my shave and then ended up pulling the engine to re-seat the valves, etc., etc. - kinda got stuck there and am slowly getting back to completing the work. Maybe I read your awesome write-up too quickly, but can you tell me again what I need to use for the crankcase breather? I think I bought a pod filter for that as well, but am beginning to think that isn't the right approach (also have two sets of carbs sitting in the garage and can't remember which one was adjusted for the shave...argh...gotta go look for spacers :doh:).
Gordon is right...
Cindy look at the procedure again....I used the original CC breather hose and inserted about 4 inches of 3/8" fuel hose into the breather hose and clamped it. Other end of fuel hose connects to Emgo filter. Double click pics on the blog and they will enlarge for clarity.
BTW: According to the manual, the crankcase breather lets crankcase gases out not fresh air in.
Determining the right carb should be easy....simply take the bottom cover off and look at the marking on the side of the slow jet....original jet will be 38...new will be 40 or 42 or whatever was installed. PM an address and I'll send you my extra shims. I'm also close enuff to lend a hand if needed.
 

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I did mine same as above. Then on the carb vent I slid a short piece of that hose "over" the end of the carb hose, then onto the breather on the other side.

I didn't cut my surge tank in half all the way either. I just cut the bottom edge and sides of that 90 degree bend so that the front over hang portion could "flex" up/straight easily as I pulled it straight out the back of the frame. I also took and old screwdriver and hammer and smacked the top of the tank just next to the thermostat housing which put a big crack along the top of it, allowing the sides to flex in a bit which made sliding it out even easier.

(I also have several extra shims if anybody needs a couple, send a PM with an address.)
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I didn't cut my surge tank in half all the way either. I just cut the bottom edge and sides of that 90 degree bend so that the front over hang portion could "flex" up/straight easily as I pulled it straight out the back of the frame. I also took and old screwdriver and hammer and smacked the top of the surge tank just next to the thermostat housing which put a big crack along the top of it, allowing the sides to flex in a bit which made sliding it out even easier.
Now you tell me! :):):)

Good idea
 

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Now you tell me! :):):)

Good idea
LOL, it was a plan born out of "necessity" I guess, because I started out with the intention of cutting it in half like you did. As I started my cut from the bottom up with a sawzall, I removed the saw to check how close I was to the frame and wires at the top of it and thats when I realized if I just pulled straight back, the front overhang section would just follow along at that point.

Same thing with hitting the top to crack it and allow more flex. As I was pulling it out the back the mid section became snug between the frame and hoses. SO the original plan was to smack it so it would bend a bit and slide a little easier. But when I hit the top it just cracked, lengthwise and the sides then flexed right in allowing it to just slip right out with out further struggle. Took about 15 minutes total, and that was on accident. :smiley_th
 

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Gordon is right...
Cindy look at the procedure again....I used the original CC breather hose and inserted about 4 inches of 3/8" fuel hose into the breather hose and clamped it. Other end of fuel hose connects to Emgo filter. Double click pics on the blog and they will enlarge for clarity.
BTW: According to the manual, the crankcase breather lets crankcase gases out not fresh air in.
Determining the right carb should be easy....simply take the bottom cover off and look at the marking on the side of the slow jet....original jet will be 38...new will be 40 or 42 or whatever was installed. PM an address and I'll send you my extra shims. I'm also close enuff to lend a hand if needed.
:confused: Ok, I have confused myself. I thought each Emgo was being placed over the bellmouth of a carb (which is why "two" didn't seem to be enough). I see your pic of the right side of the bike...can you shoot me one of the left side so I can see clearly what you did? I have pods all over the place (three total)...:hitanykey
 

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:confused: Ok, I have confused myself. I thought each Emgo was being placed over the bellmouth of a carb (which is why "two" didn't seem to be enough). I see your pic of the right side of the bike...can you shoot me one of the left side so I can see clearly what you did? I have pods all over the place (three total)...:hitanykey
Phil, I think I found the source of Cindy`s confusion!
I just noticed that you don`t have the K&N RC-2340 pod filters for the carb mouths listed in your parts list.
Parts: (see Figure 2)
1 Mikuni Needle Shims Item# 009-396 $6.95
2 Keihin PN: 99101-393 Main Jet Size: 142 $13.90
2 Keihin PN: N424-22 Pilot/Slow Jet Size: 42 $13.90
Total $34.75
I purchased these from: http://www.pjmotorsports.com/keihin-jets.html

2 Emgo Crank Case Filter $14.95 each
I purchased these from: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com


2 Coasters $31 pair
I purchased these from: http://www.shermscycleproducts.com/coasterpage.htm
Cindy, I think Phil has one of the Emgo filters mounted on each side to the former lower ear mount bolt location.
So there are 2 K&Ns on the carbs, and 2 Emgo`s on the frame.:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Oops...Nice catch...critique is good!! Installing a fence and need to return the post hole digger....when I return I'll update everything.

thanks
 

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Hey, thanks for posting the instructions! I've really been away from things so long I forgot I'd even started the process, so I'm looking forward to using your web page to get McKnight up and running....and earless!
 

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hey guys the small tube on the right side that goes to the nipple on the afront of the air box, what do I do with that?

Also according to the directions i only plug the one carb vac on the right carb, the lkeft stays open?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
hey guys the small tube on the right side that goes to the nipple on the afront of the air box, what do I do with that?

Also according to the directions i only plug the one carb vac on the right carb, the lkeft stays open?
You might have a CA bike with extra emissions junk. I'd probably remove it. My bike didn't have it or iit would have been included in the blog.
Yes, right side gets capped.....left connects to petcock and sucks fuel into the carbs (good to have if you expect to go anywhere LOL)

Hope this helps
 

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got it, thanx, mission has been sucessfully completed, i am now shaven.
 

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You might have a CA bike with extra emissions junk. I'd probably remove it. My bike didn't have it or iit would have been included in the blog.
Yes, right side gets capped.....left connects to petcock and sucks fuel into the carbs (good to have if you expect to go anywhere LOL)

Hope this helps
Phil, just a little expansion on the technical explanation for the non-mechanically inclined, on what the vacuum hose to the petcock really does.

The middle vacuum hose does not suck gas into the carbs, but "sucks" or applies vacuum to a rubber diaphram which opens a valve and allows gas to flow by gravity through the two outer petcock hoses into the carb float chambers.:)

In other words, in a properly operating petcock no fuel passes through the vacuum hose.:smiley_th
 
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