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Discussion Starter #1
SO I used the sherms ear shave kit tonight and got her out and running. Tow questions. I used the needles that came with the kit and put the clips on the third slot form the top as directed. I plugged the vacuum line that uses to go to the vlave, but left the hose that used to go to the ear alone.... do I need to cap the too. Anyway it runs like a champ at idle but it stumbles while in the id range (cutting out) any ideas
 

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SO I used the sherms ear shave kit tonight and got her out and running. Tow questions. I used the needles that came with the kit and put the clips on the third slot form the top as directed. I plugged the vacuum line that uses to go to the vlave, but left the hose that used to go to the ear alone.... do I need to cap the too. Anyway it runs like a champ at idle but it stumbles while in the id range (cutting out) any ideas
The hose that goes to the right "ear" I don't have plugged in at all - in fact I don't even have a hose. Not the smartest move I spose but I never suffered any problems until my stator croaked *sits tapping foot waiting for delivery of a new one*.

I'm guessing by valve you must have the plumbers nightmare VN750 pollution rubbish still attached - got me on that one, we didn't have to put up with that.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have taken ALL the pollution control items off the bike. The port on the carb that once went to that valve i now have capped
 

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Under the fuel tank is a square plastic cover over the fuel sending unit with a nipple on it. Install the vent hose that use to go to the right ear on that nipple on the plastic cover. See if that clears things up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have, for the most part, solved my problems. I still have 40 pilots and 142 mains in, but I got rid of the after market needles and put the stock ones back in with 2 shims each. The bike runs pretty good. It idles great, but it still pops on hard decel, but only on the rear cylinder. Do I need to go even bigger on the mains in the rear? IT also seems a little flat between about 3k and 5k RMP.... What should I be adjusting in this range?
 

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Did you move the vent hose? I know it made a hellofa difference in the mid-range 3-5 grand on my bike. Maybe one more shim under the needles and open up the rear air fuel mixture screw a little more on the rear cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have not moved the vent hose yet... I am planning on doing it when I get home from work today. Hopefully it helps
 

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I removed the vent hose to my carbs after the "T" and now it doesn't stumble at all while riding like it did before.

Now the only issue I am having is the rear cylinder still pops a little on decel.

I'm going to check the rear cylinder for header and exhaust leaks and the rear carb.

I also have shimmed the needles with 2 shims, 40 pilots, and 140 main on front and 142 on rear... I have also plugged the rear carb vac line as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well I put a 145 in the rear and put the hose on the tank... ran it and no good..But free...puled hose off tank, put it onto a breather filter I got from autozone. 12.50 nogood... put in iridium plugs VICTORY!!!!!!! My recommendation for anyone doing an ear shave with V&H cruzers w/o baffles....... 142 from mains 145 Rear mains... 40 pilots all around
2 shims each FACTORY needle... 2.5 turns front idle screw and 3 turns rear
 

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EDIT:
What is the model of the iridium plugs?

I found the part number in the vulcan verses...

NGK Iridium plugs = DPR7EIX-9
 
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