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Discussion Starter #4
Oh of course. I'm going to hold onto all of it just in case i want to go back one day. I hope that day never happens. I didn't decide to actually do it until this morning when I realized I was about to wrestle with that ugly pain in the ass once again. I'm psyched. The carbs are just sitting there, out in the open, ready to be worked on. It's so lovely.
 

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Oh of course. I'm going to hold onto all of it just in case i want to go back one day. I hope that day never happens. I didn't decide to actually do it until this morning when I realized I was about to wrestle with that ugly pain in the ass once again. I'm psyched. The carbs are just sitting there, out in the open, ready to be worked on. It's so lovely.
I can now take my carbs out, and put them back in in 3 minutes. It is glorious.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I got her all buttoned up yesterday and took a nice short ride while trying to beat Tropical Storm Barry as it passed over N. New Jersey. I went with #40 and #138 jets to start and so far it sounds fantastic. I love the way it looks without the ugly plastic filter housings. Still have to dial in the air/fuel and take it out for a long ride where I can open up to see how she behaves at high speeds. Thanks to everyone that helped me understand the ear shave process and help diagnose my stuck float problem. There were days I was spending an hour or more reading this site to understand how everything comes together.

The most difficult part for me to understand while doing the earshave was what was to be done about the vacuum ports. It isn't clear from many of the threads that the two vacuum hoses on top of the carbs that once connected to the right "ear" should probably not be hooked up to a crank case filter, but to the port on the underside of the fuel tank. Once I finally dug deep enough and found some discussions about the topic, it all came together nicely.

I'll report back once it stops raining buckets and I can get out there for real.
 

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Those are not vacuum ports, they are carb float bowl vents. They need to be left open ended. Put a longer hose on them and run them down under the bike.

Those ears are one of the things I love about the Vulcan 750. The give it that classic 1980s Japanese cruiser look.

If you do decide to get rid of those parts, they can bring a pretty penny on eBay. Wrap them in plastic and store them in a cardboard box. No need to save any emissions parts, nobody wants those. I did save all the hoses. I have used pieces of those on other vehicles a couple of times.
 

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No, don't run them under the bike, just leave the hose attached with the tee fitting on it, and run the free/open end up into the top frame rail. the frame rail is a tube if you look at it from the bottom rear, near where the carbs are. it's the perfect place for the vacuum hose because the air is dead and it's above the engine, below the tank. dry, calm, and clean air to be had there. no need for a breather, it can cause restriction and hard starts, happened to me.
 

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The main thing is you do not want any vacuum at the open end of the hose. I have two other bikes with the float bowl vent hoses running down under the bikes, from the factory. Yes, air passing over the open end of the hose at high speed can create a vacuum, but it's pretty rare. I have run a lot of bikes with no hose at all on the carb vent.
 
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