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I did this mod shortly after i got/tore into bike and have no chatter but never did before tear down. Awesome directions - great sticky

As to oil, I run any 10w40 as I haven't seen any that are "energy/resource conserving" hence all are OK to use with wet clutch.
 

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The guy I bought my bike from told me that the clutch would grab when it was first started. He said that he was on grass and gave it some gas. The clutch grabbed, spun the tire and somehow he got a broken arm.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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The guy I bought my bike from told me that the clutch would grab when it was first started. He said that he was on grass and gave it some gas. The clutch grabbed, spun the tire and somehow he got a broken arm.
the clutch probably needs to be adjusted as coffee grinder syndrome shouldn't do that

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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The guy I bought my bike from told me that the clutch would grab when it was first started. He said that he was on grass and gave it some gas. The clutch grabbed, spun the tire and somehow he got a broken arm.
A good reason to put it in neutral when starting, I suppose.
 

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Thorn, I always have the bike in neutral when starting it. I'm just paranoid that way.

I should explain what I mean by "grabbing". Once the bike has sat for awhile (usually a day or two) the ride goes something like this. As I ease out on the clutch (it engages about 2/3 of the way out) the bike begins to roll. As I continue to release the clutch there is suddenly a quick grinding sound (very loud) that probably lasts less than a second and is accompanied by a slight kick in the seat of the pants. It only does it in first gear and generally it only does it the first few times I need to take off. Either after the bike warms up or I've used the clutch several times the problem goes away. Not sure what causes the problem to go away but I'm going to start the bike today and let it fully warm up before riding it and see if that helps.

What I think happened to the previous owner is that he was in the grass, released the clutch and instead of getting that kick in the seat of his pants, the rear wheel spun and dumped the bike over.

Does this sound like what you guys are calling the "coffee grinder" or does this sound like something different?
 

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yea, that sounds like coffee grinder.. sounds identical to mine.

what I have been doing lately to help reduce it.. apply both brakes hard, slowly (very) let out clutch until it just starts to engage. do this a few times, then let clutch out a little bit more.. if the clutch is 'ready', it wont coffee grinder (and stall since both brakes are preventing bike from moving), and I will be good to go.

as a side note, mine exhibits it much more prevelantly when rpms are increased above idle speed.
 

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Once again, I thank the members for their help. I drilled the clutch basket this weekend following the excellent instructions provided above. I used an oil filter wrench with the ends wrapped in Gorilla Tape to hold the basket while removing the main nut with an impact gun. It worked like a charm.

Did you ever notice how your car or bike feels like it runs better right after you wash it? I feel like the clutch works better all the time now - hot or cold. Fooling myself, but happy nonetheless.
 

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I love this site. I've been wondering about that sound since I got the bike. I lubed the splines, thinking that was the grinding noise I heard, but it continued. Might have to add this to the winter projects!

Thanks, gents!
 

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I did this mod three weeks ago with 3/32 holes. WOW... what a difference. No more coffee grinding, clutch grabbing, or pain in the asphalt. I wish I would have done it earlier.

I live in the central valley of California where it often gets above 100 degrees in the summer. So I run 20-50 oil and have been tolerating the coffee grinder affect. But, it's all gone now with this sweet fix.
Thanks to everyone for your posts. It took me about two hours from start to finish to do the mod.
 

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Isn't it just easy to remove the clutch basket by putting the first gear on and then same time press down the rear brake lever with your leg and open the locking nut?
That way I opened and installed the locking nut in Honda CX500 when I installed the clutch basket to the right torque.

Rear brake prevents the rear wheel turning and because the gear is on the cardan axle prevents engine turning.
No extra special tool needed. Or is kawa engine somehow different and that method does not work?
 
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