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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Like many here, I have made many modifications to my bike. Most were simply "nice to do" mods...a few, like spline lube or AGM batteries are NEED to do mods.
It rained all weekend giving me plenty of opportunity to get rid of the "coffee grinder" issue that plagues these bikes. After $9 and a couple hours of work, the bike was ready for the road, but because of the rain, I waited.
I took the bike out today and it's like a gift....clutch was/is smooth as silk and no grabbing or slipping. I even tried to reproduce the "coffee grinder" symptom and failed. It became apparent this is a "NEED-TO-DO" modification and I highly recommend it.
Take time to view Roach's #14 & #25 videos that focus on this modification. I chose to use a 3/32" drill bit.
Most difficult part for me was getting something to hold the hub while removing/installing the locknut....rest was breeze.
So...get out there and drill the basket....you'll be glad you did.

EDIT: Someone on here has a real nice graphic (see post 3 below) showing the basket and hole pattern. It will help too!


The following pales in comparison to the videos, but it will give you an idea what needs to be done. Enjoy.


Tools Needed:
8, 10, 12, 17, & 30mm sockets
Inch and Foot lbs torgue wrenches
Something to hold clutch basket while you remove/install locknut
millimeter measuring device
1/16" drill bit & drill
Clutch cover gasket...Part number 11060-1088


Disassembly
Using 17mm socket, Drain oil
Using 12mm socket, remove right side exhaust stud nuts...let exhaust pipe hang
Using 8mm socket, remove clutch cover bolts and clutch cover
Using 10mm socket, remove clutch spring bolts & springs
Remove pressure plate
Remove friction discs and pressure pLates (note...the first pressure plate is offset by one notch compared to remaining plates & discs)
Using something to keep the basket from turning, use 30mm socket to remove clutch locknut & washer
Remove clutch basket
I used a micrometer to mark the grooves where I was going to drill. Starting at 5mm from outside edge, mark each groove incrementing 1mm for each hole (with 30 grooves, you should end up approx 4mm from basket flange on last groove/hole)
Using hole punch & hammer, tap each mark. Using 1/16 or 3/32 drill bit, drill the holes.
Afer drilling take special care to remove ALL metal shavings.

Assembly
Reinstall clutch basket, washer and locknut...tighten to 98 foot lbs
Reinstall friction discs and pressure pLates (note...the last pressure plate is offset by one notch compared to other plates)
Reinstall pressure plate, clutch springs & clutch springs bolts w/washers. Tighten to 78 inch lbs.
Reinstall clutch cover w/new gasket and clutch cover bolts....tighten to 69 inch lbs
Install new oil.
Congrats!
 

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Thanks a bunch! if I decide to do this mod over the winter, I will certainly use your guide!
 

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Good work there.

I'll just say.... "Need to do" ?? Maybe for some. I'd rank it with relocating the R/R. The coffee grinder was never really annoying on my bike, and many others rarely suffer from it. No real proof it causes any harm.

But it's really good to know that there is in fact a cure.

I would then suggest that anyone that does have bad CG symptoms and is actually annoyed with it... to take the time to do this proceedure.
 

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I have a question. Did you have to take the side cover off to remove the clutch basket?
I read in your post you only took the clutch cover off and then removed the basket.
If so, that would be a lot easier than having to remove the whole side cover.
Awesome write up BTW.
Does the mod help drain the oil from inside of the basket so that it don't pool up inside of there?
 

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^ No, just the clutch cover is needed to be removed to get to the basket. This is on my list of things to do, but since I only get the grinder once in a Blue Moon, it's not high on the list. Moving to Rotella 15w40 seemed to almost stop the "morning coffee" completely for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Graphic mentioned by VIOP DOc?
Many Thanks Slim

Good work there.

I'll just say.... "Need to do" ?? Maybe for some. I'd rank it with relocating the R/R. The coffee grinder was never really annoying on my bike, and many others rarely suffer from it. No real proof it causes any harm.
But it's really good to know that there is in fact a cure.
I would then suggest that anyone that does have bad CG symptoms and is actually annoyed with it... to take the time to do this procedure.
Until I made the change I would have agreed..."nice to do", but now that it's done, I wish I had done it earlier. It is a cure :smiley_th
To your point, I believe some bikes suffer from this CG more than others....mine was annoying....arguably dangerous


I have a question. Did you have to take the side cover off to remove the clutch basket?
If so, that would be a lot easier than having to remove the whole side cover.
Awesome write up BTW.
Does the mod help drain the oil from inside of the basket so that it don't pool up inside of there?
As CW-4 mentioned...just the cover needs to be removed and yes, it drains oil from the basket so the plates don't sit in a pool of oil.

Thanks to all for the kudos
 

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I did it on my project bike when I had the engine apart, even though the shifter was broken and I couldn't ride it to see if it even had the coffee grinder noise. I can't wait to get the engine back in and try her out.
 

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I'm suffering from the coffee grinder syndrome. Mine will grab pretty badly from a stop. I found that out today.
I plan on doing the mod with a few others as I work on it this fall.
This winter, she will be torn completely apart. Painted and powder coated. All bearings will be replaced, and all seals. I'm thankful I have a garage.
 

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Using something to keep the basket from turning, use 30mm socket to remove clutch locknut & washer
What setup specifically did you use to keep the basket from turning? Tightening to 98 ft-pounds is a lot of torque to hold back, and I'm not sure how exactly to do this...

Thanks!!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What setup specifically did you use to keep the basket from turning? Tightening to 98 ft-pounds is a lot of torque to hold back, and I'm not sure how exactly to do this...

Thanks!!
Mark
I used very large channel locks but don't recommend it. If I had it to do over, I'd do what Roach did in Video #25
Advance it to the 1:25 minute mark.
And you're right....98 ft lbs is darn tight :)
 

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Whatever you use just make sure it's secure and holds the hub in several spots. I've seen enough broken clutch hubs through the years from DIYers to in many cases suggest buying "the special tool"....;

But, just be carefull .....
X2 on that, and don't try to put the bolts back in the hub to hold it in place. I tried doing that and bracing between the bolt and snapped one of the mounts right off. Aluminum isn't that forgiving. EBC makes a clutch hub tool that fits our bikes or if you have a set of the metal clutch plates you could probably fab one to work like this one. My cousin had a grabbit tool I borrowed to hold it when I torqued mine back on
 

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Did the 1/16 inch drilling mod but after about a year to a year and a half it's back. Not as bad as before. The clutch makes the noise and grabs when starting out from a dead stop cold.
 

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Run some Seafoam in your oil just before you make your next change. That might clean out any gunk that you have in there. Couldn't hurt giving it a try.
 

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Thanks guys.... I ended up going with a holder. Can't link because I haven't posted enough. Turns out those large vice-grip clamps are about the same price anyhow, and are made from a hardened metal I couldn't drill through with a titanium bit, haha.

Motion Pro Clutch hub holder on Amazon, $24.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did the 1/16 inch drilling mod but after about a year to a year and a half it's back. Not as bad as before. The clutch makes the noise and grabs when starting out from a dead stop cold.
Yeah...to KM's point, I considered the holes might clog so I went with 3/32....not much difference but may help
I'd be interested to know if you're using dino or synthetic oil?

I used one of these: (carefully!!!)

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/
and an air wrench to remove the nut. Then spun the nut back on by hand and used a torque wrench to tighten it back up.
Dean
Ahhh yes. I did the same....An impact wrench can make life easy.

Run some Seafoam in your oil ..... Couldn't hurt giving it a try.
Great advice
 
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