Never been a fan of running cooler thermostats, an engine needs to be at operating temp for best efficiency and reduced wear.
The VN does stay cool in cooler weather, mine never reaches normal temp, but rises to at least halfway to normal.
If the thermostat was sticking open or missing, I'd say fix that. But if it's operating normally, there's not a lot you can do. Maybe run a "winter front", a cover to block airflow on the radiator.
Does your temp gauge read approx. halfway in normal summer riding? Maybe verify actual engine temp versus the gauge reading if you don't see the gauge near halfway in normal operation. If you're just getting the usual cold weather temp, I wouldn't worry, but if it's over-cooling by that much, I guess I would check for coolant circulation as soon as it's started up cold.
They all tend to run cooler in this situation, the cooling system is just that efficient. Then you add air cooling, and that keeps it below normal.
Heard you guys were having a cold snap down there.
10-12 minutes? If you're going to run your bike in the winter, you really need to run it longer. It's not good to run the bike unless you DO get it up to "operating temperature"....(to "burn off" any condensation in the engine case and exhaust.)
Most will tell you it's better to just let your bike sit durring the winter than to start it and let it run just a short time without letting it reach POT.
A 10-12 minute ride won't hurt it, even in the dead of winter. I'd just let it idle a minute or so before taking off. Letting it idle, and idle, and idle until the temp gauge starts creeping up in 5-10 min is a waste of time, and even though some guys here swear by it, really won't do anything to keep the bike happy. These engines are not grenading because people are not warming them up, we've never seen a history of that.
A good gauge is your choke. When you can let off choke and the bike still idle/etc correctly, then it's warmed up enough. Gauge may still read near naught, but that proves the combustion chamber is up to temp and burning fuel properly.
Remember the gauge is the coolant temp gauge, on the radiator, not an oil temp gauge off the block. It's not a direct indication of engine temperature.
the reason KM was talking about warming it up is so that condensation in both the crankcase and exhaust evaporates and doesn't build up,causing milky oil(my 700 has been there in the winter) or rusty exhaust
I never let mine warm up more than a minute before taking off, unless I am still getting settled into the saddle. same goes for the cars. start em up, fasten belts, check surroundings, then ready to roll. the ONLY reason to have a prolonged warm up on a vehicle is for thawing out the windows.
the temp gauge reads the coolant temp at the thermostat, not the radiator. not a big difference, but the bottom of the radiator on a properly working cooling system will be significantly cooler than the top (where coolant enters)
on my 750, I would start it, let it idle long enough for the choke to cause the first increase in idle speed (usually less than 15 secs), reduce choke, and ride away, with choke fully off within 1/4 mile
Some cool early mornings on my Orlando to Brooksville run along the turnpike temp never goes above a quarter even with sustained 80mph travel. Coming back in the PM at 80 degrees is very different, goes to half way and will creep up to mid range, stopped in traffic its all the way to OMG.
Cooling system was sort of "tacked on" to an air cooled design so its not that brilliant at temperature regulation hence the very wide "Normal" band on the gauge. I figured its like my early air cooled bikes with no gauges, who cares how hot/cold it is if it runs OK.
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Vulcan 750 motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, reviews, and more! (219 Characters)