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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can one of you search guru's point me to the thread(s) with pics that showed how to build a MCCT from a stock ACCT? I've been wanting to do this as a weekend project but can't find the examples others have posted.

Thanks in advance,

DT
 

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I found this posted by VN750Rider/Jerry in this thread:

"There are some tricks to doing the manual tensioners. On the right, you do need to remove the coolant tank, but it's super easy, only one bolt holds it on. When you put it back, note that there is a little thing on the bottom of the tank that fits into a grommet on the frame, and a cutout on the back of the tank for the brake cable. You will also need to get the overflow hose routed properly. A couple of extra minutes spent looking it over while removing it will help you see how it goes when putting it back.

The left is a little more complicated. There is a tab on the external oil line that goes over the tensioner, and one of the tensioner bolts goes through it. Most people say they bend the oil line out of the way enough to get the tensioner out from under it, but I decided not to go that route, for fear of kinking the oil line, which is very expensive. I used a Dremel with a flexible attachment and a reinforced cutoff wheel to cut the tab off (if you do it that way, you have to be really careful not to nick the oil line. It is not a job for someone with shaky hands). Once I got it off and out of the way, and removed the tensioner, I used a small hand file to smooth out the cut. The line has plenty of support without this one tab, it's still really solid. And once you get that tab out of the way, you can remove and reinstall the tensioners as many times as you want with no more problems.


Now comes the tricky part. I screwed both tensioners in finger tight, with the locknuts loose, started the engine, and kneeling down on the left side of the bike, I adjusted the left tensioner with my left hand, while reaching over the seat and adjusting the right tensioner with my right hand. I turned them in and out, both at the same time, until I got a feel for where they were, and there was no noise from either side. A few weeks later, a little bit of noise showed up, and I went through the procedure again. That was months and thousands of miles ago, and no more noise. You really shouldn't need to use a wrench to tighten the tensioners themselves, just the locknut. I had to modify a box end wrench with a grinder to reach the locknut on the right side. The acorn nuts holding the tensioner on hit the wrench, so I had to cut notches out of the wrench to get room to turn it. Snug it up real good, so it doesn't come loose on the road, and destroy your engine. Since installing the manual tensioners, I have carried the wrench with me, just in case."

I'll doing the swith myself once the new ones arrive!
 

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Sparky!!!
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Oops - just realized I answered a question you didn't ask! My bad.
yep...the thread Dirttrack was referring to you don't have to do all that. you just take apart the acct, pull it all a prat and add a bolt. sounds easy, but its not, and there have been problems with this method...
 

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Calif Rider
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I did what you want to do, and no trouble with the bike or performance, for the past 6000 miles. When you have the correct bolts,washers, lock nuts and reassembled, measure the depth to the chain guides inside the engine. Set up the same depth, by turning the bolt on the newly converted MCCT. You will still have to make some fine adjustments after installing MCCT's to get them just right. Take the disasembled ACCT housing with you to get the right bolts, length and threads. The washers I found had a rubber washer incorporated in the metal washer, you do need a tight fitting rubber washer to keep it from leaking around the bolt. You need at least a 80 mm long bolt, if it is an older bike,maybe 100 mm bolt. If the chains or worn and stretched. If you need more info PM me, will be glad to help.
 

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Giggity!
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I have roughly 18,000 on this conversion. When I first did it I didn't realize the bolt was pushing on the head pin. As long as you use the threaded part of the plunger (which also shortens the required lenght of bolt) you will not loose the head of your acct via broken pin like me. As soon as I found this flaw I altered the thread.

I've put alot of miles on this mod & can say it works great for a budget fix. But, if you want to go long term I would still suggest buying manufactured mcct's. Even though I'm still riding on mine. This is a total do at your own risk kinda thing. & if you've done it & are checking your mcct's, pull them out carefully incase your head pin is broke.

P.S. I do have an acct head living somewhere in Scarlet. Down side of exparimentation.
 
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