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So, since finding a luggage rack brand new for our bikes seems to be all but impossible (excluding of course the over priced ones on eBay) I decided to start building one for myself.

Unfortunately, I do not weld. So to make something that works, I went with a piece of flat steel bar 1" wide and 1/8" thick. I'm using the bolts that attache the sissy bar to the grab bar as mounting points and bending the bar around the toolbox.

At the moment, I am missing the back half of the toolbox and have one on order soon to be delivered, so I am waiting on this to come in to proceed to the next steps. Once I have the toolbox in place, I will be able to measure for placement of the crossbars as well as figure out how much of the back lip of the tool box I will need to shave out to accommodate the steel bar.

he crossbars will be the same 1/8" steel bar with tabs bent down and holes drilled and taped to be able to thread in a 6mm bolt to hold wither end in place.

then of course once assembled, primed and painted. I may or may not bondo over all of the dents and dings from the hammer blows.












 

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So, since finding a luggage rack brand new for our bikes seems to be all but impossible (excluding of course the over priced ones on eBay) I decided to start building one for myself.

Unfortunately, I do not weld. So to make something that works, I went with a piece of flat steel bar 1" wide and 1/8" thick. I'm using the bolts that attache the sissy bar to the grab bar as mounting points and bending the bar around the toolbox.

At the moment, I am missing the back half of the toolbox and have one on order soon to be delivered, so I am waiting on this to come in to proceed to the next steps. Once I have the toolbox in place, I will be able to measure for placement of the crossbars as well as figure out how much of the back lip of the tool box I will need to shave out to accommodate the steel bar.

he crossbars will be the same 1/8" steel bar with tabs bent down and holes drilled and taped to be able to thread in a 6mm bolt to hold wither end in place.

then of course once assembled, primed and painted. I may or may not bondo over all of the dents and dings from the hammer blows.












pretty good smithing skills even if you don't weld,dress the hammer marks with a flat file and spray it with a primer/filler and then wet sand it and then paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
pretty good smithing skills even if you don't weld,dress the hammer marks with a flat file and spray it with a primer/filler and then wet sand it and then paint.
Cool, thanks for the tip.
 

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Sparky!!!
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here is my solution... 197? GL luggage rack



still working on the final mounting brackets so i can loose the stock fender struts and back rest.
 

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Looks pretty cool. I opted to keep the stock seat and extended sissy bar that came with the bike in part because its part of the look I like about the bike, and also less money that I have to spend on stuff...

Unfortunately though, I may have to wait to finish my rack. I pretty much shattered the base of my bench vice from all the hammering. But then, I guess that's what I get for using a $20 vice as an anvil...
 

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Sparky!!!
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stock seat will still be able to go on.. that is why the stock extended back rest is there.. Personally don't like the stock seat. but I wanted to make this mod easy enough that a guy with out any skills could bolt it up.. so far I think I have accomplished that. btw... I have 50 bucks invested in my seat, luggage rack, and my KF&S extended backrest. so al lin all its a very cheap mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
btw... I have 50 bucks invested in my seat, luggage rack, and my KF&S extended backrest. so al lin all its a very cheap mod.
That's not bad at all. I spent almost that much buying a new piece of vinyl to recover the seat. I figure the luggage rack to cost me about $20 in materials, and I'm also looking at putting together a pair of lower deflectors to mount on the forks. That should be around another $15-20.

So far I like the stock seat, seems fairly comfortable, but I haven't had a chance for a long ride yet. The most I've put in in one go is 60 miles.
 

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Sparky!!!
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the stock seat was fine for me... I could have left it... but i couldn't stretch out far enough... the seat i made dropped me down about 1 1/2" and backwards about 6-8". now i feel like I have forward controls even though they are standard mids.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally Finished...

I still need to retouch the paint after drilling the two holes in the center cross bar last minute. Will use the holes to mount a sissy bar bacg to the rack, and perhaps in the future a trunk.

Not happy with the gloss black. will likely redo it in flat black, if I can get over being too lazy to pull it back off the bike.

Also, I'm thinking that I may relocate the helmet locks to the sides of the rack.





 

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looks good....nice idea.

Just curious about your red lenses on the rear blinkers.....did you convert to running lights? if so, what type did you install.
 

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nice! I did the same...except I modified my stock ones by replacing the rear bulb sockets for dual filament type sockets. I am not running LED's back there yet.
I opted for 2057 bulbs which have lower draw on the running lights filament, but same wattage as the 1157 bulbs for the blinker filament. I feel it gives more contrast when the directional signal is on.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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nice! I did the same...except I modified my stock ones by replacing the rear bulb sockets for dual filament type sockets. I am not running LED's back there yet.
I opted for 2057 bulbs which have lower draw on the running lights filament, but same wattage as the 1157 bulbs for the blinker filament. I feel it gives more contrast when the directional signal is on.
Excellent. The increased contrast will help in the world of "don't see us" drivers.:beerchug:l
 
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