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Has anybody experience a low battery after been in traffic for a long time??? Yesterday after about two hours in heavy traffic my bike died two times and it was showing signs that the battery was a bit low... after I got home I checked and the battery was some what low in charge... This is the first time that I have been so long in trafic and had the RPM's rather low (a lot of idle time)...

Any clues? Can this bike not be riden in such conditions... ???
 

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hey mushu.

yes, i've definitely experienced that as well. hizzo explained to me that when the engine gets hotter (which happens when you're in traffic), the stator is less efficient and won't put out as much power as when it is cool. once the engine cools down, things should return to normal. the vulcan isn't the best bike for slow traffic conditions; a mf battery will make a big difference if you don't already have one in your bike.

hizzo might be able to elaborate.
 

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If you get a volt gauge, you can see what kind of a strain you are putting on your system. You'd be surprised how just a little idling at lights is required to really drain the battery. If you have to do this much, don't use your brake while waiting.

Hopefully you didn't burn anything up.
 

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Ta dA!! and poof goes a cloud of smoke and a weak and frail little man apears! :pepper:

Ok, so i see you live in mexico city. is that the one in mexico, or is there a mexico city somewhere in the US (hey texas has a paris)?

Here is what is causing your issues. As mentioned by global_recon, as your stator gets hot, it produces less juice. This combined with the fact the bike is at a drain at idle that is what cause ur dying. Here are some things that you can do to help, not fic, just help.
1) either replace your tail with led arrays (radiaz (sp) makes some decent ones), or when at a full stop take your hand off the brake... this saves about 30 watts (2.5 amps) of juice.
2) another thing, turn off all accesories. If you encounter traffic often you may even want to purchase and wire a switch for the headlight. that is 55 watts saved.

if you do both 1&2 that should cover you for when the fan is running somewhat. The other issue is the stator. when you have it replaced, have them do an extra turn or 2 per pole, and that will fix the idle draw.

**note**
1)watch your bat water levels, heat from the GB can cause it to run dry frying the system.
2) a r/r relocation, or GB removal will prevent further damage from long idles.
3)HEAT DESTROYS STATORS!!!!!!!! FIND AN ALTERNATE ROUTE I think this will save you much time down the way. not only that, but you will prolly get home sooner too! There are a few gps with realtime traffic if you are interested.
 

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Mushu said:
Has anybody experience a low battery after been in traffic for a long time??? Yesterday after about two hours in heavy traffic my bike died two times and it was showing signs that the battery was a bit low... after I got home I checked and the battery was some what low in charge... This is the first time that I have been so long in trafic and had the RPM's rather low (a lot of idle time)...

Any clues? Can this bike not be riden in such conditions... ???
All of what the other guys said plus this. Our bikes were never intended to idle around in traffic for long periods of time. The stator doesn't produce enough voltage at idle to recharge the battery, or run any electrical loads. It's all falling on the battery. The battery is what's supplying all the juice. So if you get stuck in traffic, you have to conserve as much current as you can. Turn off the headlight (add a relay and switch if necessary). Put in iridium plugs (they'll fire at a lower voltage than regular plugs). That won't save electricity, the bike will just idle better and be less likely to die. Put in LED lights like Hizzo3 said. Get an AGM maintenance free battery. It'll survive this kind of abuse longer. But in reality, drawing down any battery like that on a regular basis will kill it. When the battery goes, the stator isn't far behind. It doesn't sound like this is a regular occurence so everything should be ok, but you should plan ahead and be ready if you get stuck in traffic again.
 

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I was thinking of the Radianze LEDs also but are there any that will fit out tail light housing? ours looks to small, website says you need 4" of clearance. Plus does anyone have a led bulb for the plate light?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hizzo3 said:
Ta dA!! and poof goes a cloud of smoke and a weak and frail little man apears! :pepper:

Ok, so i see you live in mexico city. is that the one in mexico, or is there a mexico city somewhere in the US (hey texas has a paris)?

Here is what is causing your issues. As mentioned by global_recon, as your stator gets hot, it produces less juice. This combined with the fact the bike is at a drain at idle that is what cause ur dying. Here are some things that you can do to help, not fic, just help.
1) either replace your tail with led arrays (radiaz (sp) makes some decent ones), or when at a full stop take your hand off the brake... this saves about 30 watts (2.5 amps) of juice.
2) another thing, turn off all accesories. If you encounter traffic often you may even want to purchase and wire a switch for the headlight. that is 55 watts saved.

if you do both 1&2 that should cover you for when the fan is running somewhat. The other issue is the stator. when you have it replaced, have them do an extra turn or 2 per pole, and that will fix the idle draw.

**note**
1)watch your bat water levels, heat from the GB can cause it to run dry frying the system.
2) a r/r relocation, or GB removal will prevent further damage from long idles.
3)HEAT DESTROYS STATORS!!!!!!!! FIND AN ALTERNATE ROUTE I think this will save you much time down the way. not only that, but you will prolly get home sooner too! There are a few gps with realtime traffic if you are interested.
Hizzo3, you are right... actually I was going through the kawazaki service manual and it states that for European models they use some sort of day ligth running light (10 or 15 watts) so less draw to the battery. Anyway as for your suggestion as for alternate route it's kind a hard when you live in a city with 6 million cars and only about 3 main highways to take... so it's kind a difficult... it sucks big time... I need to relocate to some other city... :drool:
 

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There are several long-lasting traffic signals that I go through every day. I always shut the bike off when I catch these lights red, especially if it's hot out. Idling the bike for very long in hot weather is about the worst thing you can do.
 

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I got stuck in traffic awhile back with temps ranging in the 100s. My fan doesn't work so engine temps started soaring. I'd imagine the battery was taking a beating as well. When at a dead stop, I killed the engine and then started it again when traffic started to move. Don't know if this helped save the battery but it did help with the bike not overheating. Once we got by the construction causing the delay and traffic started moving again, eveything was OK.
 

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After my experience with the same heat-related bike issues this summer (sitting in traffic on a very hot day in Gettysburg), someone explained to me that under 2500 or so rpm, the battery will discharge anyway (the heat only adds to the problem for an MF battery). Since the 750 idle speed is 1100 +/-50, I was told to open the choke and run the engine at a higher rpm. Seems counterintuitive to me, since a higher rpm is just going to generate more heat. But does anyone have thoughts about that, i.e., idling higher?

Thanks.
 

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idle @ 2500rpm........ that would be more of a wear and tear on your motor than a gain of anything else. I myself wouldn't do it Cindy.
ahhh Gettysburg rt 30 I love that side of Pa
 

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Crobins365 said:
After my experience with the same heat-related bike issues this summer (sitting in traffic on a very hot day in Gettysburg), someone explained to me that under 2500 or so rpm, the battery will discharge anyway (the heat only adds to the problem for an MF battery). Since the 750 idle speed is 1100 +/-50, I was told to open the choke and run the engine at a higher rpm. Seems counterintuitive to me, since a higher rpm is just going to generate more heat. But does anyone have thoughts about that, i.e., idling higher?

Thanks.
I think that was a mistake. The heat REALLY adds to the problems of the wet cell batteries. That is, more so than MF batteries. When I find myself sitting at a light for extended periods, I'll rev the engine up a little higher to keep my battery in the charge state. I 'spose I could do the choke, never really thought about it. And yes, the higher rpm does generate more heat, but then the cooling system and the fan will take the heat away. Which you are probably thinking, doesn't that require even more rpms to keep the battery from discharging? Sure does. But, it's not a never ending cycle, there is an rpm that you will reach that will keep the battery charging while the fan is on. But if you get to that point, you probably need to turn the bike off rather than heat everything up, because it will cause wear and tear on other components. It's your call, whether you want to run your rpms a little higher or just turn the bike off. I guess it depends more on the length of the light.
 

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very good points Cegodsey, I just think that sitting still and running that high an rpm is just killing the life of the motor that much faster
think about the hardleys and how those bikes lope like their gonna stall...thats because they know they only have a small amount of time before their motors require major work and their trying to get all the life they can out of them lol
 

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The Hardleys are tuned for bikers that know where the reserve is... :p
 

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well as to the stator and charing issues... I currently am in the testing phase of my frankenstator. If all goes well i will do beta testing soon. after that i will start selling them. Price tag will prolly be about $240. The plus side though it i am hoping to offer at least a 2 year warrenty, which is double everything on the market.
 

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Hey.... since you are in "testing" phase... and your are looking to put on lights.... just do a make shift mount and put on the biggest lights you can find!!! for testing of course!! see how much Ol' Frank can handle. Your do have a voltmeter on your bike right??
;)
:smiley_th
 
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