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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title suggests I think the JB has finally flaked out. I haven’t ridden the bike in about a month and In that month it’s gone through a couple of major (45+) temp swings as we had highs in the 60’s and the next day struggled to get to 20. Not to mention to heavy multi day rain events as well. I can’t tell if the bike is waterlogged but an electrical gremlin has surfaced. Instead of writing a multi paragraph post on what I’m experiencing. I’ve just made a couple short vids. Between the two I think it captures all the symptoms.



 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check out the battery. It looks like it has a loose connection, or the battery has gone kaput.
I charged the battery and tried starting it again. Still nothing, since it’s dark now I noticed when I turn on the ignition the right side driving light did not come on right away.
Earlier I checked the battery terminals and the frame ground and that all looked good. I manhandled all the wiring and even pulled the connections to the JB and hit them with dielectric grease. The only corroded wired I see is one of the three stator leads, this needs to be fixed but I’m pretty sure it’s not my root cause because if I can’t get the motor to turn there’s no juice flowing there anyway. I noticed whatever is going on is definitely pulling on the battery. This last time I had the onboard voltmeter one and I watched the voltage drop way down and then come back up when I shut the key. Something seems shorted out.
 

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That seems odd. If the battery was dead, or a connection loose, how would the turn signals work?
Do the signals still work after you get the one click and the dash lights go out?

It can still get enough current to make lights work, but not get enough amps to turn the starter. Sometimes you get just one click and sometimes you'll get multiple rapid clicks because the starter solenoid cycles repeatedly.

I'd start with a voltmeter reading, before turning the key on, and after hitting start.

Edit: Thought I was responding to mmart. oops again

Must be one of those days.
 

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I charged the battery and tried starting it again. Still nothing, since it’s dark now I noticed when I turn on the ignition the right side driving light did not come on right away.
Earlier I checked the battery terminals and the frame ground and that all looked good. I manhandled all the wiring and even pulled the connections to the JB and hit them with dielectric grease. The only corroded wired I see is one of the three stator leads, this needs to be fixed but I’m pretty sure it’s not my root cause because if I can’t get the motor to turn there’s no juice flowing there anyway. I noticed whatever is going on is definitely pulling on the battery. This last time I had the onboard voltmeter one and I watched the voltage drop way down and then come back up when I shut the key. Something seems shorted out.
I would want to see what the voltage is doing, to rule out the battery, but it does sound like it could be a JB problem.
 

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Something you can try, as a diagnostic step....

Jump the starter solenoid and see if it cranks. Don't need the key on, but make sure it's in neutral. Jump it between the two largest terminal lugs with something that can handle the amps if it cranks.

Watching the battery voltage will also give you more info.
 

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The first part of the JB to fail on mine was the start relay, that led to trying the Two-Wire mod. But it just didn't click at all.

On my last ride couple of rides the voltage was dropping randomly. I suspected the fan relay, but haven't gotten to check it out any more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You might be on to something with the battery, this thread sounds eerily familiar.


I need the weather to cooperate to continue to troubleshoot, these invisible garages suck!
 

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You might be on to something with the battery, this thread sounds eerily familiar.


I need the weather to cooperate to continue to troubleshoot, these invisible garages suck!
Sometimes, the lead strap that ties each cell together inside the battery can burn or detach, but still make enough contact to supply some power. Being loose, the cell tie can't carry enough amps to turn the starter.

That loud click is the starter solenoid kicking in, the start relay in the JB makes a very faint click. So you get the loud click and the amps go away, the cell tie disconnects temporarily and the lights go out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here’s one more video, the rain stopped so I pulled the seat and hooked up a meter while trying to start it.



What you don’t see is that my jump starter was finally charged and I was able to at least spin the starter, but the jump starter is beeping like crazy and although I can’t find the instruction sheet I’m pretty sure the beeping means “your battery is f&@ked!”
 

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Here’s one more video, the rain stopped so I pulled the seat and hooked up a meter while trying to start it.



What you don’t see is that my jump starter was finally charged and I was able to at least spin the starter, but the jump starter is beeping like crazy and although I can’t find the instruction sheet I’m pretty sure the beeping means “your battery is f&@ked!”
You might be able to find the manual for the jump box online, I do that a lot.

That 12.25v on the meter is a dead battery. Looked like it was plummeting downward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You might be able to find the manual for the jump box online, I do that a lot.

That 12.25v on the meter is a dead battery. Looked like it was plummeting downward.
It was dropping, the wonkiness had me wondering if something was shorted at first, but once I heard the starter engage with jump pack hooked up I felt better. I’d rather replace a battery then chase gremlins.
 

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Problem solved, the rain hasn’t started so I hooked the bike up to my deep cycle marine battery. Fired right up.
I have the AGM on a charger/reconditioner to see if I can get any life out of it before I buy another one.


View attachment 55594
That charger looks very similar to the one I bought, used it a few times and the reconditioning seemed to work well. Wouldn't work last time I tried it. I'm planning to open it up and see what I can see inside.

That beeping on the jump box might've been warning of a shorted cell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That charger looks very similar to the one I bought, used it a few times and the reconditioning seemed to work well. Wouldn't work last time I tried it. I'm planning to open it up and see what I can see inside.

That beeping on the jump box might've been warning of a shorted cell.
I bought this charger (Harbor Freight) when I got the deep cycle battery for my trolling motor. Looks like the bike battery is shot, volt meter shows surface charge but the charger is showing 0% capacity after a couple hours
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper Font Gadget
 

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I bought this charger (Harbor Freight) when I got the deep cycle battery for my trolling motor. Looks like the bike battery is shot, volt meter shows surface charge but the charger is showing 0% capacity after a couple hours
View attachment 55596
I think that same charger is sold under various brands, mine is an Everstart.

The trouble with smart chargers, they won't charge if they don't detect enough voltage. Seems silly. They can be tricked into working though.

I think it's safe to pronounce your battery dead, the videos yesterday looked like a disconnected cell. In third world countries they would saw the top loose and reconnect it.
 
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