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Discussion Starter #1
I recently did the two wire mod and headlight mod. I also eliminated the light green and green/white wires for the safety switches. Now when I let my clutch out the bike loses all power. Ideas?
 

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Sounds like the clutch lever switch is working. It stalls when you let the clutch out.
 

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I eliminated it, pin 16, green and white wire
I'm not aware of this mod. Might be the problem, disconnecting that wire is the same as the sidestand switch always being open.

I can't review the mod thread right now, but the gr/w wasn't originally part of the mod.
 

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Why would you want to ride with your kick stand down? lol
 

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Look at the "blue wire & two wire mods" link in my signature to see if you did the right wires
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I definitely did the right wires, but I eliminated the side stand wire according to the "how to truly fix the electrical problem" sticky. What spockster said makes sense, apparently eliminating that wire makes my bike think the stand is down
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, took the switch apart and cleaned it, no stalling with it not attached to the clutch. Soon as I screwed it back together, dead bike. Took it back off but left it connected and zip tied it the handlebar and ripped it down the road no problem. Thanks all for the help
 

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Larry Oswald
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You need to study a wiring diagram. The diode logic (junction box) is pretty clear. Three things are involved. Any one of those ALLOWS the bike to run. Side stand up, in neutral, clutch in. These are done by any of the three switches pulling the voltage on the B/W wire from the junction box to the ignitor being held near zero.

In the situation you describe I guess it is the NEUTRAL SWITCH that is NOT closing. In neutral neither the clutch nor the side stand kills the motor. To test this short the junction box green wire to ground.

If the neutral switch is not closing both the clutch out or the side stand down SHOULD kill the engine.

Spockster: The side stand switch being open means the side stand is DOWN (according to Clymer)
 

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Spockster: The side stand switch being open means the side stand is DOWN (according to Clymer)
Right, that's why I said disconnecting the green/white is the same as the switch being open (sidestand down - engine stalls).
 

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You need to study a wiring diagram. The diode logic (junction box) is pretty clear. Three things are involved. Any one of those ALLOWS the bike to run. Side stand up, in neutral, clutch in. These are done by any of the three switches pulling the voltage on the B/W wire from the junction box to the ignitor being held near zero.

In the situation you describe I guess it is the NEUTRAL SWITCH that is NOT closing. In neutral neither the clutch nor the side stand kills the motor. To test this short the junction box green wire to ground.

If the neutral switch is not closing both the clutch out or the side stand down SHOULD kill the engine.

Spockster: The side stand switch being open means the side stand is DOWN (according to Clymer)
An alternate test would be to put the bike in neutral and try to start the bike without pulling the clutch lever. If the starter motor won't crank then it indicates that the neutral switch or associated wiring is faulty. That eliminates the kickstand as part of the equation. In stock configuration of course (2-wire mod not performed).
 

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2 wire mod does not affect side stand switch (at least it didnt in my version, where I left the wires attached to the jbox, and jumpered between them).

I had to bypass the side stand switch about a year after doing the 2 wire mod, because it (switch) started sticking on mine
 

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2 wire mod does not affect side stand switch (at least it didnt in my version, where I left the wires attached to the jbox, and jumpered between them).

I had to bypass the side stand switch about a year after doing the 2 wire mod, because it (switch) started sticking on mine
Didn't affect my sidestand switch either.
 

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Not sure if MTB was referring to my most recent comment or not regarding the side stand and the 2-wire mod. I'll elaborate just in case ...

I suggested undoing the 2-wire mod so that the starter lockout circuit (prevents the starter motor from cranking and does not involve the kickstand) can be used to check the neutral switch instead of the interlock circuit (which prevents spark at the plugs and DOES involve the kickstand) which is how the OP reported doing the testing. By using the stock starter lockout circuit to test, a faulty kickstand switch is removed as a variable.

We know that the switch at the clutch is good, so that should give a 100% diagnosis on the neutral switch depending on whether or not the starter will crank with the bike in neutral and the clutch released.

With the 2-wire mod in place the starter would crank regardless of clutch or neutral.


A third, even easier check on the neutral switch would be to turn the ignition to 'on' and put the bike in neutral. The light should come on. If the light comes on, the switch is good. Period. If the light does come on, but the starter lockout test I outlined above still fails, you're looking at a bad wire between the junction box and the netural switch. Possibly damaged the green wire on pin 15 of the 10-wire connector when doing the 2-wire mod and/or ill-fated kickstand removal?
 
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