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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 86 750 with an electrical issue. After an hour ride everything hot, I parked for a few minutes, then attempted to restart. Neutral light nice and bright, pushed starter button, very soft click that APPEARED to emanate from within dashboard and ignition lights went dim and then went out, then nothing. Key off and on, bright lights. Same result. Then key off and on and no lights, nothing. Periodic attempts sometimes got bright lights, starter push, soft click, dim lights, then off. Sometimes nothing. Battery measured 12.75. Attached jumper cables and jumped, just in case. Still no result. Now, a day later, key on bright lights, same result. Now no lights. Never the slightest difference to results. Never the slightest response from starter. I'm totally stumped. Ideas? I guess I could short across the starter relay. Haven't tried that yet. Is there relay in the dashboard area that controls the main starter relay? Thanks!!
 

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Hi how you doing? I'm Rob and I like to party, long walks on the beach, candlelight dinners, nice bottle of red...Come on man, no intro??
How long have you had the bike?
Type of battery?
Kickstand down?
You in neutral?
Could also be your controls on the left. Either the start button isn't working well or your kill switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Figured it out.....Battery.....Battery was showing 12.5V.....Jumped to to a car battery (car not running) which took it up to 12.75V and everything was perfect. There must be a device in the circuit that just won't play at 12.5V probably to protect some aspect of the electrical system. Thanks for your replies guys.
 

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Definitely not the issue. See ya in a couple days when it happens again. We will help figure it out.
 

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Definitely not the issue. See ya in a couple days when it happens again. We will help figure it out.
Depends on where the click really came from. My first thought was the battery, but the click could've been from the switch losing contact inside and arcing. Then I thought, the dash doesn't usually click.

12.5v is just about dead.
 

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Depends on where the click really came from. My first thought was the battery, but the click could've been from the switch losing contact inside and arcing. Then I thought, the dash doesn't usually click.

12.5v is just about dead.


. 2 volt won't make the difference in a click and a full on start. The middle ground is about .8 volt wide for "wrrrrrrrrr groaannnnnnn blahhh"......... Before it doesn't start. Lol

Besides 12.5 means it is 70% charged. Plenty enough and what most people's battery should read. 12.7 is fully charged. 12.0 still has 25% in it. 10.5 is dead flat and always with a bad cell.

Infact here's a chart. Old points bikes must have a strong battery, but newer CDI bikes like the VN 750 don't need but enough to start it. He had WAY more than he needed. We will find out soon. :)

Either the ignition switch or bad ground. It can be the RR plug, but they usually backfire when they go bad. I got $5 on bad ground. If it were the switch the lights wouldn't have dimmed and gone away. Caveat: The only way it cannot be a bad ground is if the battery is losing a cell and reversing polarity under load, must test under load to determine.

So, he jumped it from a car battery where he was able to get a closed circuit with ground, it started.
 

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Well, dead cell is exactly what I was thinking of, even a cell tie burned in two.

Guess I could've looked up a chart, but 12.5v ain't doin' so well. Depends where you look too, other charts put 12.5 at 50%.
 
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