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I’ll be 46 in a few weeks, the watch I had was a definitely a nifty little knockoff. I had a fair amount of the real stuff but most didn’t survive. I wasn’t thinking about future investments yet lol. I did manage to save two, and a 5 piece Voltron lion set, but it’s not mint. My Megatron pistol met a horrific fate.
I'll be 48 next week. Close enough, though. Man, I don't care what anyone says, the '80's and '90's were fine by me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I found nothing negative about your last reply! Don't be so hard on yourself.

So, just how far down the path are you? Because now that we've been having this discussion, I'm trying to convince myself that I need something that I probably don't!

Seems like Eleanor is running very well. I like your idea of a shift indicator, but where would you put it? On a HUD? Because it seems like having to look at the instrument cluster for a cue on the exact right moment to shift would be wildly distracting to me.

Keep in mind, my one and only accident was t-boning a Honda Element (looks like a toaster on wheels) at 35mph, and if I hadn't taken an extended glance at my left rearview mirror, I could have avoided that lady. My point being that I try to keep my eyes on where I'm going, with occasional quick glances at the rearview. (I should also mention that the mirrors were mounted on the ends of the handlebars, and I'd never recommend those to anyone.

I'm eager to hear your reply, because I have a novel idea for a great helmet HUD. I don't know if it's been done, I tried looking on Google, but saw nothing specific.

I have a Samsung Galaxy watch that my brother gave me last year. It's the very first version they made, and it was brand new when he gave it to me. His excuse for deciding he no longer wanted it was "I don't like stuff on my wrists." I asked "Why'd you buy it, then?" His response was "Because it looked cool."

Nowadays this same version can be found easily for $50, many of them new. Coding apps for Android isn't too difficult, so I think it would be neat to use the watch as a HUD. Or, just as a display for real-time data. I've considered places to mount it, where I could see it easily, and I think it would work great above and between the speedo and tach. I'd like to make one of those panels that Knifemaker made. It would work great there.

I dunno. Just spitballing.

Once again, no offense was taken. It takes quite a bit to get me rattled.
What I have for a shift light is a small amber LED mounted to my windshield frame, quite close to the redline on my tach. It's driven directly from the Ignitech module. I have it set to start blinking at 7500, getting more rapid until it's solid on at 8500. If I ignore that, the rev limiter kicks in at 8700. I found while it could stand to be a bit brighter in full daylight, it can be seen without looking at it. I actually put it on to keep my eyes on the road more under hard acceleration. I don't have to stare down at the tach to make sure I'm not shifting too soon or overreving. At night, it's too bright and almost blinding. But I don't ride as aggressive at night anyways and I usually shift at 7500 max. Most of the time, I'm shifting well before the light anyways. But it's nice when overtaking a car.

Where I'm at is I'm slowly working through a lot of the lower level things. I have the real time clock running along with a routine to set the date and time. This will be needed for log timestamps. I set up a variable to track processor load. It's a dual core processor, but I have to manually assign tasks to one of the cores. The load tracking helps me balance the tasks between cores. I started setting up different screens to display on the touchscreen. So far, it's just a screen that shows date, time, and processor load. I just started working on the serial data. The Ignitech data packets are 152 bytes but the serial buffer is 128 bytes. So I have to split the packets into two pieces. I hope to be reading data from the Ignitech this weekend.

I plan on a diagnostic screen that shows RPM and engine vacuum. This allows me to adjust idle speed. And it allows me to sync the carbs by pinching one carb vacuum hose, than the other and compare readings. I might build some dashboard screens for use while riding, but realistically this device will probably live under the side cover.

I plan on the device running in sleep mode, periodically waking up to poll the Ignitech. Upon response, it will wake up and start logging. I was going to automatically delete the oldest log files as space runs out.
 

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What I have for a shift light is a... ....I was going to automatically delete the oldest log files as space runs out.
Sounds like you really know your stuff! What I still quite don't understand is the why of it. What's the advantage of shifting at a specific moment? And, when that light blinks, by the time you react to it that moment is long past, right?

It almost seems to me like it's an awful lot of investment for little/inconsequential return.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Sounds like you really know your stuff! What I still quite don't understand is the why of it. What's the advantage of shifting at a specific moment? And, when that light blinks, by the time you react to it that moment is long past, right?

It almost seems to me like it's an awful lot of investment for little/inconsequential return.
I think you have to see it to fully get it. WOT in first gear, redline comes really quickly! It keeps me from running into the rev limiter and allows for better acceleration. If I'm passing on a two lane road, I'm very near the top of 2nd gear. I can then shift to third as needed without taking my eyes off the road.

I put the dyno chart and gear ratios into a spreadsheet and found the 750 accelerates fastest by holding right to redline vs shifting early.

Here's a few updates. The RPM and KPA is just test data for now, not actual reported data. The GPS data, core load and battery data is real though. The module battery, not motorcycle battery.

I have the data lines tied together, so it loops the data output back to the input. This suggests that the data interface is working correctly. I just haven't connected it to my Ignitech yet. Nevertheless, I was getting 38 samples per second, on par with what my laptop would do. That should translate to over 30 samples per second when connected to the Ignitech. I don't have the SD card working yet. I'm hoping that doesn't slow it down too much.

Communication Device Gadget Display device Portable communications device Font

Communication Device Gadget Mobile device Mobile phone Portable communications device

Gadget Font Measuring instrument Wrist Communication Device
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I tried connecting my device to the Ignitech and I got a bunch of garbage data.
Turns out the Ignitech uses RS-232 voltages (+/- 6 to 12V) while the M5 uses 3.3V voltages.
Here's the same data being sent by both.

Rectangle Slope Plot Font Parallel


I found a nice compact level converter.

Once I have that, I'll be able to make more progress again.
 

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Techie meet gearhead. Like the guy said, "It's the age of the geek!" It is more tech than I would use often but I would like having the ability to adjust the timing/carbs with the visual aids. (I don't ever look at my tach while running up through the gears. I just shift when it sounds right.) I only really watch the tach in the upper gears when going fast but I don't do that much anymore, getting old. You are certainly bringing the old Vulcan into the 21st century. It might even be possible to convert to fuel injection with your setup.
 

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Can probably adapt a throttle body and computer, or just have Jason whip one up. Fuel injection, no jets, bowls, or floats!

Should be plenty of OEM throttle bodies in the parts auctions. EFI has been around long enough for the parts to pile up. The Kawasaki Brute Force 750 is injected.
 
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