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Discussion Starter #1
Tonight I went to start my bike (94' 750 Vulcan) and when i switched the key to the "On" position, the green neutral light and red oil light did not turn on like they always do.

When I turned the switch on and hit the start button nothing happens. No clicking, no nothing. The tail light, blinkers, and hazard lights all come on but the green neutral light will not come on despite the bike being in neutral. Please if you have any idea what could be causing this let me know.

:BLAM:
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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Have you taken apart the switch and cleaned the connections yet? I'm betting that is your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@kanuck69 I did play with the key back and forward from off to on to lock to on because mine also is touchy where sometimes you have to go past on and then back to it for the dash lights to come on. But this time nothing I do would get the power going. Like I said when though when key is in on position the blinkers and taillight do come on.

@goofyfoot2001 I have not tried taking anything apart yet. This happened last night at 10pm when I got out of work. My bike is in work parking lot so I am wondering how difficult it is to perform the removal, cleaning, and replacement of the switches. I've read some other threads on this issue but have not seen how to do the fix.

Thanks for your replies. Please any more info would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also I see the repair process in the verses for the ignition switch but am wondering if it would still be the ignition switch even though the key turns fine and taillights and blinkers come on fine. Just the neutral light and oil light will not come on at all and no noise when key is on and start button is pressed.
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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@kanuck69 I did play with the key back and forward from off to on to lock to on because mine also is touchy where sometimes you have to go past on and then back to it for the dash lights to come on. But this time nothing I do would get the power going. Like I said when though when key is in on position the blinkers and taillight do come on.

@goofyfoot2001 I have not tried taking anything apart yet. This happened last night at 10pm when I got out of work. My bike is in work parking lot so I am wondering how difficult it is to perform the removal, cleaning, and replacement of the switches. I've read some other threads on this issue but have not seen how to do the fix.

Thanks for your replies. Please any more info would be greatly appreciated.
Clean the switch contacts. Stretch the little springs in there ever so slighlty. All will be golden. My cap broke and had to superglue it back on and tie wrap it. I have had zero switch issues since cleaning the contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advice. I should have mentioned I am somewhat mechanically inept. I have only had this bike for a few weeks and haven't had the time to get acquainted with it just yet.

That said could someone walk me through the process of cleaning the contacts and also estimate how much a shop would charge to replace/ repair the potential problem.

Thanks so much everyone!
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Thanks for the advice. I should have mentioned I am somewhat mechanically inept. I have only had this bike for a few weeks and haven't had the time to get acquainted with it just yet.

That said could someone walk me through the process of cleaning the contacts and also estimate how much a shop would charge to replace/ repair the potential problem.

Thanks so much everyone!
I see your positive attitude.... strap your balls on....do it yourself ! .......many threads instruct how to.....

:smiley_th
 

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Sparky!!!
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just an FYI RideFlorida, The ignition switch is actually two separate components. The first being the part you see, that the key goes inside of, its made of metal, and has al the mechanics of a normal lock, on the bottom of the metal housing is a rectangle shaft about an 1/8" long that operates the electrical portion which we call the hocky puck. SO just because the key turns fine with out binding, and snaps into each position cleanly, the hockey puck can still be messed up (usually a combination of dirty contacts and worn springs). So go with Goofy's suggestion, the worst you are out is about half hour of time. Unfortunately it is faster to clean the switch than it is to trace down every wire to make sure electricity is flowing to where it is supposed to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I see your positive attitude.... strap your balls on....do it yourself ! .......many threads instruct how to.....

:smiley_th
Thanks for that..

:confused:

The reason I'm thinking of having a mechanic fix the problem is not because I don't want to take the time to do it, its actually because the bike is in a public parking lot (where it refused to start) and not only do they not want people working on vehicles in their parking lot they want the motorcycle moved pronto. So that is my dilemma. It may only be a half hour job for most people but I am fairly certain it would take me at least twice as long.
 

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Dr. Vulcanstein
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Thanks for that..

:confused:

The reason I'm thinking of having a mechanic fix the problem is not because I don't want to take the time to do it, its actually because the bike is in a public parking lot (where it refused to start) and not only do they not want people working on vehicles in their parking lot they want the motorcycle moved pronto. So that is my dilemma. It may only be a half hour job for most people but I am fairly certain it would take me at least twice as long.
Do you have access to a pickemup truck? Maybe a buddy er sumpin. I know between me and one other person I have lifted mine into a pickup on two different occasions. Where are you in Fl? I'm in palmbay, if your not too far out I could lend a hand.
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Do you have access to a pickemup truck? Maybe a buddy er sumpin. I know between me and one other person I have lifted mine into a pickup on two different occasions. Where are you in Fl? I'm in palmbay, if your not too far out I could lend a hand.
Also, besides jada, there are also a few others in Fl different geographically.........very friendly / helpful folks. We are family here.

:smiley_th
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Chasin' the blacktop
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rideflorida, Williamtech is right, doing the simple repairs yourself is fun, especially when it works. just grab a beer and go for it, what have you got to lose?

But when you're successful you'll have learned something new.
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again everyone for the assistance, however I want to follow up after having an interesting development a couple days ago.

After going back to work (where the motorcycle was parked) I again tried to start the bike up. I turned the keys to the on position and nothing. the ignition lights did not come on. The bike would not start. Same problem as before.

I decided to roll the bike forward a bit as I read somewhere that with a bad connection this could work. When I turned the handlebars all the way to the right the ignition lights came on. I hit start and bike fired right up.

If anyone has insight on what is causing this please let me know. My guess is either a loose wire with a bad connection near the neck of the bike or something similar. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and if so, what did you do to solve it.

I rode the bike home without any issues. And the last few days I've started and rode it just to see what happens. Each time I have to turn the handlebars all the way to the right to get the lights to come on. A couple times, once the bike starts up and put into gear and the handlebars straighten up I lose power. However after a few tries I get it moving and after that I have no problems. I haven't ridden far as I don't want to lose power in traffic, but if anyone could provide further suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

Again, thanks so much! :smiley_th
 

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Sparky!!!
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it sounds like the connector for the right hand control is pulling a prat, or you have a problem with those wires pinching. Pull the neck covers off, the connectors are on the left hand side of the tank...
 

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it sounds like the connector for the right hand control is pulling a prat, or you have a problem with those wires pinching. Pull the neck covers off, the connectors are on the left hand side of the tank...
FYI, It should be the RED connector (unless they changed the colors from year to year)
Make sure the tab that holds the two halves together isn't broken, thus allowing the pieces to separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright I have some time today and the bike is here at home. Could someone please walk me through pulling the neck cover off and tell me what I am looking for as far as connectors and wires? Or at least point me to a thread that has this instruction?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I pulled the neck covers off and couldn't see any loose or unconnected wires but with the gas tank still on it's hard to see the connectors. Thinking I am going to have to remove the tank to get a better look.

I snapped a few photos and hoping someone here can tell me which connector or what I am looking for here.

Is taking the tank off as simple as removing the three bolts? Or is there more to it that I am not seeing?

As always thanks for your help.



 
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