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Discussion Starter #1
I just received my terrific, custom made to order, the following items from [email protected]:
-heavy duty stainless luggage rack
-2 stainless floorboards with right foot heel stop edge
-extended stainless shifter pedal
All were exactly what I needed for me to fit on my bike.
Couldn't find a rack anywhere,except ones that have a have a weight limit of 5 lbs.(ridiculous) So, Mike made me a great one to hold myself ! lol
I needed floorboards that were not only comfortable for my size 13 feet, but ones that prevented me from melting my heels on the hot exhaust, and Mike designed and made them-perfectly
My shifter peg was too small for my boots-so Mike made an elongated one-perfect, again!
I found Mike, here on the Vulcan Forum, and I highly recommend him for those bikers who know what they need and want to make their ride better.
 

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The 5 lb weight limit of the stock luggage rack is just a humorous number they picked to cover their asses from liability lawsuits. I weigh a good 150 lbs and have stood on top of the rack with nothing bending or breaking.... Many others have loaded theirs with all most as much weight and report no problems.
Don't believe everything you read. ;)

Those are some big ass floorboards. I found just having floorboards prevented my right heel from touching the exhaust pipe... No extra guard was needed.

If you look in my photo link below you'll see some other "custom" parts you might have an interest in.


KM
 

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Prowling Tiger
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The 5 lb weight limit of the stock luggage rack is just a humorous number they picked to cover their asses from liability lawsuits. I weigh a good 150 lbs and have stood on top of the rack with nothing bending or breaking.... Many others have loaded theirs with all most as much weight and report no problems.
Don't believe everything you read. ;)

Those are some big ass floorboards. I found just having floorboards prevented my right heel from touching the exhaust pipe... No extra guard was needed.

If you look in my photo link below you'll see some other "custom" parts you might have an interest in.


KM
x2! Same kind of non-sense the manufacture uses for bike load capacity. I could see a load capacity being limited on a smaller, but 400lbs on a 1500+ is just stupid!

An awesome example of this sort of limitation is found on a KLR650. I have seen pics of riders loading a weeks worth+ of gear onto their bikes and they still ride just fine. The big concern with adding more weight to the rear is how doggy the bike becomes when performing low speed turns. The ass end doesn't want to turn as easily as the front end. This isn't as noticeable at higher speeds, but the condition is still present.

Loaded KLR pic> http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/392/loadedklrdq5.jpg
 

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Good thing it was you Mike...I came REAL close to jammin on THAT button, lol...

And we used to WAY overload log trucks in the North Country all the time....as has been stated, its a CYA thing...frickin lawyers...
 

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x2! Same kind of non-sense the manufacture uses for bike load capacity. I could see a load capacity being limited on a smaller, but 400lbs on a 1500+ is just stupid!

An awesome example of this sort of limitation is found on a KLR650. I have seen pics of riders loading a weeks worth+ of gear onto their bikes and they still ride just fine. The big concern with adding more weight to the rear is how doggy the bike becomes when performing low speed turns. The ass end doesn't want to turn as easily as the front end. This isn't as noticeable at higher speeds, but the condition is still present.

Loaded KLR pic> http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/392/loadedklrdq5.jpg
I have heard of KM 's antics on his luggage rack.Changing a light bulb or something like it.On the other hand I saw EZ Rector(Charlie)'s luggage rack after it broke one of the tubes under the seat.He thought he had a loose bolt and we were going to tighten it up and it was broken.

That being said, that was the only one I have seen broken.I have seen Mike's Racks and they are very well built and strong,as well.You throw in what how hard the Fire and Steel racks are getting to find.With what the price on one is now and the ones Mike makes is a pretty good bargain.
 

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In theory anything can break. I've seen frames broken like they were cut with a laser. Some were do to just micro fractures that were there to start with.

Given its position, I doubt I'd put more than 60 pounds on a rear rack regardless on how strongly it's built. Heavy items should be carried low, in saddle bags or farther forward in tank bags. If you don't have a passenger you should carry stuff on the passenger part of the seat instead of the rear rack.

The lower you can put weight and the closer to the bikes center of gravity the better.
 

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............ Heavy items should be carried low, in saddle bags or farther forward in tank bags.......... The lower you can put weight and the closer to the bikes center of gravity the better.
X2 on that. I have seen broken kick stands from the bikes having to much weight up high in tall tail bags and the bikes being leaned over to the side.

With that said, I love the heck out of the look of M Angels rear rack. Sharp looking in the above picture
 

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Another caution here if you are riding in twisty hill country. Piling a bunch of weight on the back seat or luggage rack will make the front wheel pretty light and hard to gain any turning traction while accelerating out of an uphill turn.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I just received my terrific, custom made to order, the following items from [email protected]:
-heavy duty stainless luggage rack
-2 stainless floorboards with right foot heel stop edge
-extended stainless shifter pedal
All were exactly what I needed for me to fit on my bike.
Couldn't find a rack anywhere,except ones that have a have a weight limit of 5 lbs.(ridiculous) So, Mike made me a great one to hold myself ! lol
I needed floorboards that were not only comfortable for my size 13 feet, but ones that prevented me from melting my heels on the hot exhaust, and Mike designed and made them-perfectly
My shifter peg was too small for my boots
-so Mike made an elongated one-perfect, again!
I found Mike, here on the Vulcan Forum, and I highly recommend him for those bikers who know what they need and want to make their ride better.
Those floorboards and extended shifter pedal sound like exactly what I need.

What are the dimensions of the boards?

Is the extended shifter pedal a clamp on design or a whole new shifter lever?

A few more close-up pictures with a ruler alongside would be most helpful. :)
 

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Jack of all trades
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The floorboards are about 9.5"x4.5" from what I remember. The shifter is a new assembly. I took a stock one, cut off the peg, drilled and tapped a hole, then I used threaded rod and tubing to make what you see above. It wasn't terribly difficult to do and polishing it took the most time. Those floorboards actually got refinished with a different style rubber pad.
 

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The floorboards are about 9.5"x4.5" from what I remember. The shifter is a new assembly. I took a stock one, cut off the peg, drilled and tapped a hole, then I used threaded rod and tubing to make what you see above. It wasn't terribly difficult to do and polishing it took the most time. Those floorboards actually got refinished with a different style rubber pad.
I like that !

:smiley_th
 

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Another caution here if you are riding in twisty hill country. Piling a bunch of weight on the back seat or luggage rack will make the front wheel pretty light and hard to gain any turning traction while accelerating out of an uphill turn.
I think accelerating out of a turn makes the front end light no matter what weight you have there. Watch a GP race and you'll see they usually have the front wheel off the ground.

What you need to watch out for is putting the bike into the turn....you can't go in as fast. A tiny loss of traction on the rear tire will be magnified. Go in slower and don't use much if any trail braking.

This is the basic rule when having a passenger....do things smoothly. No exaggerated movements.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Floorboards in shape of foot without toes..lol..8 3/4 inches long by 4 3/4 wide at top tapered to 3 3/4 at heel. Shifter pedal is a stock pedal with a new peg 3 3/4 inch long bolted on, with rubber O Rings for grip, and original cut off. I bought a used shifter on EBay and had it mailed to Mike for the re manufacture and design. He made the items according to my needs and specs, with his own prof input.
 

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Jack of all trades
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Floorboards in shape of foot without toes..lol..8 3/4 inches long by 4 3/4 wide at top tapered to 3 3/4 at heel. Shifter pedal is a stock pedal with a new peg 3 3/4 inch long bolted on, with rubber O Rings for grip, and original cut off. I bought a used shifter on EBay and had it mailed to Mike for the re manufacture and design. He made the items according to my needs and specs, with his own prof input.
Hey I was close...only about a half inch off. They are fairly larger than my initial design, but they seem to be just what you were looking for.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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The floorboards are about 9.5"x4.5" from what I remember. The shifter is a new assembly. I took a stock one, cut off the peg, drilled and tapped a hole, then I used threaded rod and tubing to make what you see above. It wasn't terribly difficult to do and polishing it took the most time. Those floorboards actually got refinished with a different style rubber pad.
Thanks for the info Mike. I have a few more questions as I am going to try making these items myself.
I already have 2 pieces of 3/8" aluminum plate, 8 X 8 and 8 X 10 inches respectively, to work with.

I cannot really see the heel stop very well on the right footboard, but think a piece of 1/4" or 5/16" stainless steel rod bent to follow the contour of the back left edge, and inserted into a couple of holes drilled in the board would be functional and look good too.
How high does the heel stop need to be above the board? 1/2 to 3/4 inch maybe?
(I'll take a tape measure to bike night and measure some of the Harleys. :))

What size threaded rod did you use for the shifter?
Is it welded to the back of the shift lever or did you use liquid thread locker/Loctite?

What type of tubing did you use? Stainless steel?
Outside diameter looks to be about 3/4". Does that sound about right?
Is the tubing threaded too, or held on with a lock nut on the outer end?

Where do you find a rubber pad for the boards that looks good?
 

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Hoss...dont make the heel stop too high, else in a panic, your foot may get caught...3/8-1/2" tops....countersink the screw holes and use a buglehead bolt to attatch...you can get self sticking rubber matting at any homecenter in different patterns...
 

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This should have been posted in the "Builds" section....I'll move it when it quiets down.
 
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