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The floorboards are finally installed..... I used 1/4" aluminum diamond plate to make the boards. They are attached with 1 1/4" stainless flatheads (1/4-20) with a washer and a nut on the back side. The original mounting holes had to be drilled out a little bit to fit the 1/4" bolts.


 

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cool boards,might get a little slick when wet though,maybe some strips of nonskid tape would help and still give the diamond plate look a chance to shine too,And I see it is one of the fast ones too. A blue and silver 92 model;)
 

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those look fantastic. Can you apply some type of air cushion to reduce vibration and fatigue?
 

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Very nice, I love the dimondplate. As an all weather rider my second thought was the slipery when wet factor. Maby just a 1/2 border of some roll on truck liner (rino ?) might do the trick and still keep it lookin great.

Agin Love them!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
cool boards,might get a little slick when wet though,maybe some strips of nonskid tape would help and still give the diamond plate look a chance to shine too,And I see it is one of the fast ones too. A blue and silver 92 model;)
I'll have to get back to you about the slippery when wet.....
I've had a few people say "oh, you got the fast one" No idea what you all are talking about here....what's the diff?

those look fantastic. Can you apply some type of air cushion to reduce vibration and fatigue?
humm, never thought of that...I'm sure you could sandwich something in between the board and the casting.

very nice boards... are you going to be making a set for the passenger as well?
I'm going to try!
 

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Columbus, Ohio
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COOL!

Are they buzzy at all? Would rubber washers fix that if they were? What mods to the foot peg had to be done? Is the peg under there or was it removed?
Is there a reason they don't project further forward? It looks like there is plenty of room for your boot under the shift lever.

Has anybody ever made a right angle lip at the rear of the board to keep your heel from slipping off the back?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
COOL!

Are they buzzy at all? Would rubber washers fix that if they were? What mods to the foot peg had to be done? Is the peg under there or was it removed?
Is there a reason they don't project further forward? It looks like there is plenty of room for your boot under the shift lever.
Buzzy...no they don't make a sound or vibrate at a high frequency....
I guess a rectangle piece of rubber between the board and peg boss might work....dunno.
The foot pegs are attached to what I call the 'peg boss' by two bolts that come up through counter sunk holes in the boss and screw into the bottom of the rubber part you put your feet on. (there are metal 'nuts' molded into the underside of the rubber pegs) so the rubber peg is removed leaving the cast aluminum boss attached to the bike. I used 1/4" bolts because that is what was available to me at the time..... I would have used metric bolts, but didn't have the right length. (remember if you do use metric flatheads that they are 90 chamfer, not 82).... anyway, the holes in the boss need to be drilled out a little bigger..... I used a unibit and just went to the next size up (9/32 I think?) The casting drills very easy and fast, so be careful. I then just bolted the boards down with flatheads, washers, and nuts.
They could maybe go about an inch further forward I think....the limiting factor, I believe, is the brake peddle.
 

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Thanks.
I went to Kanuck 69's series of pics and saw how he did his. Seems similar to what you describe. I should have looked, first.
My concern is for too much flexing and too much leverage on the rear portion. Most folks say that that is not an issue, though.
 

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I'll have to get back to you about the slippery when wet.....
I've had a few people say "oh, you got the fast one" No idea what you all are talking about here....what's the diff?



humm, never thought of that...I'm sure you could sandwich something in between the board and the casting.



I'm going to try![/QUOUTE
just kid of a running joke on here about which color is fastest,naturally I would say blue and silver 92,since I own one too LOL
 

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The floorboards are finally installed..... I used 1/4" aluminum diamond plate to make the boards. They are attached with 1 1/4" stainless flatheads (1/4-20) with a washer and a nut on the back side. The original mounting holes had to be drilled out a little bit to fit the 1/4" bolts.
That design looks familar..... ;)


The reason they do not extend further forward Jimko is because you still need to get your toe under the shifter to shift up. The design was chosen so no alterations to the shifter or brake pedal would be neccessary.

KM
 

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Glenn C.
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Nice diamond plate boards, I made myself a set of the KM floorboards too, front and back, and i was thinking about making some of out diamond plate too, but i decided not to, because of the slippery factor.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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Is there any reason that the board can't have the back end raised up to keep the foot from sliding back?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is there any reason that the board can't have the back end raised up to keep the foot from sliding back?
Not as far as I can see, but I don't have any way of bending 1/4" aluminum :)
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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I am thinking of making some with a raise at the back. I am a lazy rider and need something to keep my feet from sliding off.
 

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HAWK
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COOL!



Has anybody ever made a right angle lip at the rear of the board to keep your heel from slipping off the back?

Thanks
The ones I make have rubber on them so you don't slip.
 

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I'll have to get back to you about the slippery when wet.....
I've had a few people say "oh, you got the fast one" No idea what you all are talking about here....what's the diff?



humm, never thought of that...I'm sure you could sandwich something in between the board and the casting.



I'm going to try![/QUOUTE
just kid of a running joke on here about which color is fastest,naturally I would say blue and silver 92,since I own one too LOL
You may be kidding but my 93' with 43k is much faster then my 01' to get up to speed and faster at top speed. It also doesn't feel like I am putting on the breaks when I decel either. Oh and it is blue as well. lol

Nice floor boards. Thinking I might have a go at those also.
 

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Those look nice, but I'm also wondering how the wet boots will mate with them. Rubber gets slippery too of course. Most serious KLR owners replace their rubber cushioned pegs with toothy metal ones that bite into their boot soles.

You won't get any vibration from them, no need to worry about a rubber backing or what ever. That would make them flex anyway.

I'm probably going to be helping a friend make a set for his Shadow along the same lines. The footpeg is a little different, but I think I can make it work.

Here's the set I made with KM's plans, that I had on my 750.
 

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Columbus, Ohio
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Not as far as I can see, but I don't have any way of bending 1/4" aluminum :)

I was thinking you could cut it so it ws a few inches longer in the rear, put the plate in a vise, bend it over with a hammer, then cut the bend to about a 1/2 inch lip. There would be some waste. I don't know what that would do to the strrength of the aluminum, though.
 
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