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Apologies if this has already been asked - I searched, and did not really find an adequate answer.

My 87 750 has seen better days before I purchased it. The coolant reservoir ruptured - it was completely brittle when I was checking it - and while running the engine to warm it up for an oil change, I saw the coolant pooling out onto the ground. The tank as stated had a small hole in it, and was causing the coolant to leak out when the engine was hot.

The local Kawasaki Dealer is ordering me a new reservoir, and it should be in late next week sometime. I have 2 major questions:

1. Once I put the new reservoir in, and fill it up with the green stuff (50/50) Do I need to do an airbleed of the system?

2. Looking at the old tank, it looks like the tube that comes from the top right hand side as you look at it - has been missing, I could not find it on the ground under the bike. In the Kawasaki manual it calls that tube the "Lower hose/Breather hose" whats it for? Looking at the picture, it doesn't appear to connect to anything - so is this an overflow tube?

Thanks
Andrew
 

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Apologies if this has already been asked - I searched, and did not really find an adequate answer.

My 87 750 has seen better days before I purchased it. The coolant reservoir ruptured - it was completely brittle when I was checking it - and while running the engine to warm it up for an oil change, I saw the coolant pooling out onto the ground. The tank as stated had a small hole in it, and was causing the coolant to leak out when the engine was hot.

The local Kawasaki Dealer is ordering me a new reservoir, and it should be in late next week sometime. I have 2 major questions:

1. Once I put the new reservoir in, and fill it up with the green stuff (50/50) Do I need to do an airbleed of the system?

2. Looking at the old tank, it looks like the tube that comes from the top right hand side as you look at it - has been missing, I could not find it on the ground under the bike. In the Kawasaki manual it calls that tube the "Lower hose/Breather hose" whats it for? Looking at the picture, it doesn't appear to connect to anything - so is this an overflow tube?

Thanks
Andrew
No you do not have to do an air bleed of the system, and that hose that goes on top of the res tank is in deed an over flow tube. That way if it over flows it will just leak onto the ground. Just go to your local auto parts store and but a vacuum line that is of that size and in between the frame and the swing arm there's that good sized space. Just let the hose drop off there.
 

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The previous reply is close, but, not entirely correct. The manual does state to do an air bleed, that's what the nipple is put there for. However, you can fill the system pretty well without the bleed process if you take a few moments to run the bike on the center stand. It can develop air pockets in the cylinder jackets that will leave you about 2 cups short of a full fill if you don't. Also, the reservoir should be properly filled between the lines on the tank...in that way if she burps a little air when first hot, it will reverse suck some of the reservoir into the system and you're good to go. Check the tank level once a week if you ride every day in the summer.
 

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The previous reply is close, but, not entirely correct. The manual does state to do an air bleed, that's what the nipple is put there for. However, you can fill the system pretty well without the bleed process if you take a few moments to run the bike on the center stand. It can develop air pockets in the cylinder jackets that will leave you about 2 cups short of a full fill if you don't. Also, the reservoir should be properly filled between the lines on the tank...in that way if she burps a little air when first hot, it will reverse suck some of the reservoir into the system and you're good to go. Check the tank level once a week if you ride every day in the summer.
Sorry I asked a buddy of mine that works on bike, and he said don't need to air bleed it. Sorry about that.
 

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Duh, yeah, I said you don't HAVE TO air bleed it...but if you don't put it on the center stand and at least run the engine 60 seconds to make sure there are no air pockets, then you're just plain too lazy to do things 100 percent and make certain your bike is 100 percent. Next thing you know, you're posting one of those "why did my bike do this" questions. WTF, is it too much trouble to take an extra 60 seconds??
 

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geezzz.............ruff crowd today..... :mad:
 

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And if you had to "ask your buddy", then you shouldn't be giving other people advice by shooting from the hip. Bad mojo.
The reason why I asked my friend about it is because the way I fill my bike with coolant is putting it on the center stand, fill the radiator, start the bike, let it run, and finish filling it. He said it doesn't need to be air bled cause that's the way his shop fills bikes as well. Getting advice from someone that is the 3rd generation at this bike shop is good advice. I just didn't put all the details in my reply about how to fill it and everything. It's not bad mojo; it's advice from someone that owns a bike shop in my area.
 

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The reason why I asked my friend about it is because the way I fill my bike with coolant is putting it on the center stand, fill the radiator, start the bike, let it run, and finish filling it. He said it doesn't need to be air bled cause that's the way his shop fills bikes as well. Getting advice from someone that is the 3rd generation at this bike shop is good advice. I just didn't put all the details in my reply about how to fill it and everything. It's not bad mojo; it's advice from someone that owns a bike shop in my area.
Well as the old adage goes- "The devil is in the details".
I, at least, learned something from this little exchange. Thanks.:smiley_th
 

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The bad mojo is that if you reread everything I said, and compare that to what you are now saying, its pretty much zero. You've come full circle. My only point, regardless of some lame azz shop geek that gets paid for doing things as quick as possible for the most shop-time bucks, is that spending an extra 60 seconds is worth the effort to make sure it's 100 percent. I recently had a customer bring in a VN750 that ran like a drunk sewing machine...and the local Kaw shop had just rebuilt the carbs. Hmmm, the "shopguy" highschool dropout with a tech school diploma didn't think it was "necessary" to put the O-rings under the idle/air jet needles. Point is, if you don't have the actual expertise, then you don't have anyway of judging WTF to do. Or what is done to your bike. And if that is the case, it's not a slam....just follow the damn Kaw manual and skip trying to be a quick fix artist. Don't pass along bogus advice. That's ULITMATE bad mojo. f you don't have the specific education, then follow those that do. It's called a Factory Service Manual, and the guys that wrote the manual designed the bike and didn't just wake up yesterday and say "whazzup".

A second opinion from an idiot is worth exactly nada.

No hard feelings, really. But whether you're ridin an VN or mixing covalent hydrogen compounds, get your facts straight by doing the groundwork.

I'm sure you will.
 

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The bad mojo is that if you reread everything I said, and compare that to what you are now saying, its pretty much zero. You've come full circle. My only point, regardless of some lame azz shop geek that gets paid for doing things as quick as possible for the most shop-time bucks, is that spending an extra 60 seconds is worth the effort to make sure it's 100 percent. I recently had a customer bring in a VN750 that ran like a drunk sewing machine...and the local Kaw shop had just rebuilt the carbs. Hmmm, the "shopguy" highschool dropout with a tech school diploma didn't think it was "necessary" to put the O-rings under the idle/air jet needles. Point is, if you don't have the actual expertise, then you don't have anyway of judging WTF to do. Or what is done to your bike. And if that is the case, it's not a slam....just follow the damn Kaw manual and skip trying to be a quick fix artist. Don't pass along bogus advice. That's ULITMATE bad mojo. f you don't have the specific education, then follow those that do. It's called a Factory Service Manual, and the guys that wrote the manual designed the bike and didn't just wake up yesterday and say "whazzup".

A second opinion from an idiot is worth exactly nada.

No hard feelings, really. But whether you're ridin an VN or mixing covalent hydrogen compounds, get your facts straight by doing the groundwork.

I'm sure you will.
What is your problem? I've been reading your posts all day and it is very obvious you need an attitude adjustment. This Forum is a friendly place and really doesn't need your attitude. You seem to know bikes very well, but just back off.
 

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What is your problem? I've been reading your posts all day and it is very obvious you need an attitude adjustment. This Forum is a friendly place and really doesn't need your attitude. You seem to know bikes very well, but just back off.
My opinion too George.
You may know all about working on motorcycles, but IMHO you have just been plain rude throughout this thread.
Be civil, or keep your opinions to yourself.

Yeah, the GF is out of town this weekend and I get hostile without a daily taste.
Perhaps when your GF is not around to entertain you, you should refrain from taking out your frustrations online.
Just saying dude.
This IS a friendly place, and we intend to keep it that way. :)
 

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The bad mojo is that if you reread everything I said, and compare that to what you are now saying, its pretty much zero. You've come full circle. My only point, regardless of some lame azz shop geek that gets paid for doing things as quick as possible for the most shop-time bucks, is that spending an extra 60 seconds is worth the effort to make sure it's 100 percent. I recently had a customer bring in a VN750 that ran like a drunk sewing machine...and the local Kaw shop had just rebuilt the carbs. Hmmm, the "shopguy" highschool dropout with a tech school diploma didn't think it was "necessary" to put the O-rings under the idle/air jet needles. Point is, if you don't have the actual expertise, then you don't have anyway of judging WTF to do. Or what is done to your bike. And if that is the case, it's not a slam....just follow the damn Kaw manual and skip trying to be a quick fix artist. Don't pass along bogus advice. That's ULITMATE bad mojo. f you don't have the specific education, then follow those that do. It's called a Factory Service Manual, and the guys that wrote the manual designed the bike and didn't just wake up yesterday and say "whazzup".

A second opinion from an idiot is worth exactly nada.

No hard feelings, really. But whether you're ridin an VN or mixing covalent hydrogen compounds, get your facts straight by doing the groundwork.

I'm sure you will.
I agree with the bad attitude. What you said is what I said. No what you said is HOW I WAS TAUGHT to put the coolant in my bike and yes by a guy at a motorcycle shop. He was showing me how to do it so I didn't have to spend that extra money to have him do it. NOT ALL SHOPS do the fix it quick. His shop is the only shop out of the 5 in the area to have a extremely good name cause they do good quality work and make sure things are done correctly. His shop has been opened since the 50's and he is the third generation of owners. He takes a lot of pride in what he does, and takes pride in the quality job his employees do.

Now I asked a SIMPLE QUESTION. Do you have to bleed the line to add coolant, and he said no just fill it with coolant how he showed me to fill it. Not only that if you use your FULL brain any time you deal with repairs on the bike it should be put on the center stand. That's just pure common sense something in which I think you are lacking right now. You know I'm really sorry that I wanted to DOUBLE CHECK with a person that does this as a PROFESSION before I posted an answer to the original posters question. You know sometimes you have to double check things NO MATTER HOW OLD YOU ARE OR HOW MUCH EXPERIENCE YOU HAVE. No one is perfect, and even though you like to think you know everything, YOU DON'T if you want to say you know everything I'm going to call you out right now.

Since you decided to bring your attitude to this thread, and it has gone way out of control I personally want to apologize to the original poster for the way his thread got out of control. This type of attitude is what will cause people not to want to be a member at this site. I'm getting a lot of help on this forum, and many others are getting a lot of help as well on this forum. If your going to act like a 2 year old when you come to this site don't post cause your going to really piss people off.

To recap on something you said which I'm going to quote

I recently had a customer bring in a VN750 that ran like a drunk sewing machine...and the local Kaw shop had just rebuilt the carbs. Hmmm, the "shopguy" highschool dropout with a tech school diploma didn't think it was "necessary" to put the O-rings under the idle/air jet needles. Point is, if you don't have the actual expertise, then you don't have anyway of judging WTF to do. Or what is done to your bike. And if that is the case, it's not a slam....just follow the damn Kaw manual and skip trying to be a quick fix artist.
Well my friend is a high school graduate, attended Southern Illinois University has a Bachelors Degree in business management. He also went to yes a tech school that deals specifically in motorcycles, and is certified to work on Kawasaki, Yamaha, Harley-Davidson, and Suzuki. The carbs I bought from one of the members I took to my friend so he could show me how to tear it apart, clean it, what to look at closely to make sure no damage, and put back together. Now because of what he showed me on how to basically rebuild a carb I can do the work next time myself.

So before you go saying anything anywhere MAKE DAMN SURE YOU HAVE YOUR FACTS STRAIGHT and DON'T GO SLAMMING PEOPLE FOR A SECOND OPINION.
 
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