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Discussion Starter #1
Hi again guys,

And so you know on my last post.. You guys with the poogs nailed it.

But now what I have is.. It seems like I am removing my carbs almost weekly to clean the pilots... I have seafoamed, and seafoamed.. Runs like a champ for a week or so, then all of a sudden.. No idle.. I have removed the tank and cleaned as well as I can but somehow small dirty debris keeps making it to my carbs..
So yeah I have removing, cleaning and reinstalling the carbs down to about 40 mins now.. But wow what a pain..

Now stupid question, Do I need 2 inline fuel filters? I dont have any..


Any help on keeping them clean?

This is a 1990. is very clean on the outside, but I did have to do some major fuel cleaning to get it running..

Thanks,
Roach///Andy
 

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Maybe the fuel lines should be replaced? And yea, I think you can run a fuel filter on each line, just make sure it's meant for gravity fed engines.
 

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clean the fuel tank with some POR 15 cycle kit then get 2 pingel mini 5/16 fuel filters I had to use a 90 brass elbow on the fuel line for the rear cylinder because the line was getting pinched here is a pic.........since this pic though I cut the line on both sides and moved the filters closer to the carb side they are more straight up and down now I got both these filters for 45 shipped on ebay and came with 2 extra rebuild kits.
 

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There should be filters on the tips of the two tubes of the petcock to filter the tank fuel. If those are in place your dirt is coming from you fuel lines from the petcock to the carbs.
 

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There should be filters on the tips of the two tubes of the petcock to filter the tank fuel. If those are in place your dirt is coming from you fuel lines from the petcock to the carbs.
Are there actually filters on the tips of the pickup tubes?
I thought there was only a screen/filter surrounding the pair of tubes.:confused:
 

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I would first clean the tank (various ways to do this) and replace the fuel lines. If that doesn't fix the problem, add inline fuel filters like these: http://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-In-Line-Fuel-Filter-Standard/dp/B00388NNMS/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1296068296&sr=1-14

It is tight, but they will fit. Had them on mine until I cleaned the tank and removed them. Be sure to get clamps that fit the fuel line. The screens on the petcock aren't all that great as filters and can allow crud to reach the carbs.
 

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OL HOSS ...you are correct on the old style petcock(res-on-pri) yes the one tube and the reserve port are surrounded by one screen. On the new style (res-on-off) there are two separate tubes of different lenghts with a screen on the tips of each tube. I have no idea what year they made this change. I know you cannot buy the old style petcock through Kawasaki anymore. To me this very fine screen should be small enough to filter out anything that would be clogging the carbs or making them dirty. I bought small K&N fuel filters to put inline to my carbs....but after seeing how fine the screens were....I just didnt see a point to installing them and causing four more places for the fuel line to leak. Maybe I am wrong???? I still have the filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well All the fuel lines and vacuum lines are new. And once I clean the carbs, the bike runs like a champ [for a day]... Then off come the carbs again. So I am sure its coming from the tank..

So I am gonna try that 1st then let you guys know.. Thanks for all the input.

Andy
 

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If you look in the filler cap hole, what does the metal look like? Clean and shiny silver or is there some rust build up? If you remove the tank and drain it, what comes out? If it looks good from the cap, but you get residue coming out of it you probably need to do a rust removal from the tank. Rust can flake off in tiny almost microscopic particles that will go right through the screen on the petcock and settle in the carbs, trust me on this one. Even if the tank opening looks good, I'm betting there is rust in an area below the sight line from the filler cap, probably along a line where gas and water sat in the tank for a period of time. I'm guessing here, but can't imagine anything else causing you to have to constantly remove the carbs and clean them. Edit: This is exactly the issue I was having years ago with my KZ1000 and what prompted me to search for a method to clean the tank. It was a member on the KZrider forum that had posted the cleaning method below, and had used it several times to clean/rust-proof motorcycle gas tanks.

I would go ahead and pick up the stuff you need from the writeup below and clean the rust from the tank. I believe it will solve your problem, once and for all... Here is the quickest and cheapest method.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No its very clean inside the tank..

I just noticed when I took my fuel lines off and ran the fuel from the tank thru a coffee strainer, there were all sorts of small particles in the filter..
I have since put a pair of inline filters on and will be driving it tomm. I guess that will tell me if its ok or not..
what a pain.. Sheesh
If I have a problem after that, I am going to try the tank cleaning method you posted. It looks like a great idea and I have most of the stuff needed..

Very frustrating problem though..
 

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Thanks for posting this-My tank is very very rusty!! Spark plugs gunk up all the time will try this when it warms up enough to have a garden hose running! Thanks-
 

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Filters are a good idea, they will prevent stuff from getting to the carbs, and constantly having to remove and clean them. That is a major job if you just have to keep doing it. But, if the fuel from the tank is contaminated, the filters will keep plugging up (at least it won't be the carbs). You need to fix whatever the problem with the tank is, or get another one. The Vulcan 750 tank is difficult to clean the normal way, because of the petcock design, the way it mounts to the tank, and that large hole in the bottom of the tank where the fuel level sensor goes. To derust a tank with acid, both the petcock and fuel level sending unit must be removed, and the holes sealed somehow. I have always cleaned tanks by filling them with full strength muriatic acid, and letting them soak for 24 hours. Guaranteed to get ALL the rust out. But whatever you plug the holes with has to be able to stand up to the acid.
 

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Guess it depends on how badly the tank is rusted. I have tried to clean a couple of badly rusted tanks with muriatic acid, and it definitely removed all the rust alright, and I would up with a couple of pinhole leaks. Not the fault of the acid, it did it's job. It was the rust that was keeping the tank from leaking. When I found the pinhole leaks, I started tapping on the area with a 1/4" wood dowel, and it went right through. Just wasted my money filling the tank with acid.
 

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Jerry, have you ever considered that leaving concentrated hydrochloric acid (which is what muriatic acid is) in a tank for 24 hours might be the cause of the tank leaking? I've used a quart of The Works toilet bowl cleaner (18-20% HCl) to remove rust from tanks and it never took over an hour to get rid of the rust. Acid not only dissolves rust, it will do the same to steel.

If anyone has a leaking tank, Caswell makes an epoxy tank sealer that works and won't fail like Kreem, Red Kote, etc., can. http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
 
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