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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alright so once again forgive my ignorance. I have read the ear shave procedure and kind of understand it, but maybe I am missing something.

I have basically at this point replaced the entire bike. and the only thing I had a friend do is the carbs (they scare me and he did them for cheap).

But he is saying if I dont want to put the air boxes back on the sides (ears) I could just put cone filters on the carbs where the boots are and I would be fine.

Would this be a problem? if so what would, or could happen if I were to do it this way.

We just got it running yesterday, and rode around without the boots, or air boxes on to see how she did and she is running strong. I know I cant run her like that, it was just a test ride.

Thanks in advance for the feedback!
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts
What your friend is describing is the ear shave procedure.

If you are using stock pipes then you can probably get away with using pod filters without adjusting the carbs, however depending on elevation, etc, you may need to re-jet the carbs to compensate as described in the ear shave procedure.
 

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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks tanner!

Also if anyone knows. I am reading a few posts about the ear shave, and using cone filters. I am getting the sense that the K&N rc2340 are the only ones that would work from what I am reading.

However I have called about 10 part shops trying to find them and no one has them in stock.

Would any cone filter with a 54mm mouth work (ive read you can squeeze on a 52mm too) , or does anyone have any suggestions that I can find at auto zone/advanced autoparts/ o'reillys?

Thanks again!
 

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1986 VN750
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3,255 Posts

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Super Moderator
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2,570 Posts
the uni pk-92's work but are more cylindrical shaped. they will touch the bottom of the tank, but they are flexible enough that its a non issue to me
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
Best thing to do is go with the K&N. As mentioned above the connecting opening is different.
 

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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Much appreciated everyone!

I ended up finding a place that has them. Hopefully this time tomorrow I will be cruising. I still have the coaster mod to do (most likely be done in the next week or 2) and she will be how I want her to.

I will post once I have that done and everything done to her once I get it.

As always you guys have been a big help!
 

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Registered
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132 Posts
i think you will need to re-jet the carbs or she will run lean with cone filters on, you can check plug colour if its white dont carry on riding it
 

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the uni pk-92's work but are more cylindrical shaped. they will touch the bottom of the tank, but they are flexible enough that its a non issue to me
X2

The Uni PK92 works fine, no mods required, and several of us have done the earshave with no re-jetting on stock pipes. Jets really only come into play when the exhaust is opened up.

A pair of Uni filters is less than half the cost of K&Ns.

The Uni does touch the tank on the left side, but it's not bad. I didn't shim my tank higher until a year later. Didn't really need to, but I was chasing a noise and wanted to eliminate that as a possibility, and that wasn't it.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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16,080 Posts

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Old Truck Junkie
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I had gone with EMGO filters too. The bike would not run over 5K rpm. The late Ron (Lance 328) RIP had me remove the filters and run the bike without filters, problem solved. He had me buy the K&N and bike ran great. It is a matter of air restriction. We also called him "The Professor."
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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16,080 Posts
I had gone with EMGO filters too. The bike would not run over 5K rpm. The late Ron RIP had me remove the filters and run the bike without filters, problem solved. He had me buy the K&N and bike ran great. It is a matter of air restriction.
Yup.the emgo pods have that rubber ring around them
 

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132 Posts
X2

The Uni PK92 works fine, no mods required, and several of us have done the earshave with no re-jetting on stock pipes. Jets really only come into play when the exhaust is opened up.

A pair of Uni filters is less than half the cost of K&Ns.

The Uni does touch the tank on the left side, but it's not bad. I didn't shim my tank higher until a year later. Didn't really need to, but I was chasing a noise and wanted to eliminate that as a possibility, and that wasn't it.
i used a 54mm 45 degree hose with 45mm hose inside that to eliminate the rubbing under the tank, sticks out a bit but works. i have searched for some stubby cones but aint found any.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I put some washers under the rear tank mount to raise the tank a little
 

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1986 VN750
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With all the effort everyone seems to go through to make other filters work, just going K&N the first time seems like the best route to me. /shrug
 

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What effort? Screwdriver, tighten clamp, done. *shrug*
 

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Super Moderator
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exactly spock.. and I think I recall (swiss cheesy memory) something about the k&N's hit the bottom of the tank too, and needed a washer on rear tank mount to raise it a little
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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4,133 Posts
The effort of paying for emgos and than not being able to use them and not getting your money back for them. Go K&N!
 

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exactly spock.. and I think I recall (swiss cheesy memory) something about the k&N's hit the bottom of the tank too, and needed a washer on rear tank mount to raise it a little
Yup, UNI PK92 fits and works, no stink, no sweat.

Emgo and some cheap chinese filters were discussed in the past, and pretty much ruled out.

I do recall someone shimming the tank for K&N as well.
 
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