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why/how could this Mod be any different on a Euro Model ?
Different models have different wiring color scemes...THATS why.... :rolleyes:

Manhunter...I have a wiring diagram you may want. PM me your email, and I will send to you.

it is Vn700 1985 a1-it was made only for usa
Same as my bike...VN700 is better than 750 ! :smiley_th ;)
 

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but i hear click befor i turning ignicition key
Make sure you disconnect and clean all of the main ground wires. Especially the ones in starter circuit. (I think there are 3). Very important.
 

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if nothing helps, can i get source of power elsewhere, like from taillight power cable. cause this cable provide electric when i turn a key.
thx
 

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@niterider

I have test it now for 2 days, power cable from backlight,workig very good.

Do you think,that thin cable will be enough as power suply?
 

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I recently applied this mod to my '00. I must say it works like gangbusters. The bike starts quicker and better than it has maybe ever. My only question is whether or not there are any long term side effects and what's the longest anyone has run with this mod? Has it caused anyone any problems?
 

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Another satisfied user of this mod! My bike had a very hard time starting before. I rebuilt the starter and saw some improvement but still would take a minute or two to get started sometimes so I opted to do this simple mod. So far my bike starts way quicker than before and I'm no longer embarrassingly sitting there trying to start my bike! Thanks for the post!
 

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Amazing difference!

So I just finished this mod and rode around for quite a while. It's like a completely different bike from how it ran before! It starts right up first try! The only silly thing i did at first was to attach the power wire to the starter side of the relay and it would only run with the start button pushed lol. Thank you fergy for the write up!
 

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I made pick-up coil mod first, made only minor changes with engine start and running. After coil mod with relay engine starts just by looking at the start button :D First i have measured coils voltage drops, it was only 0,25V on hot side, but this drop made a big difference.
 

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add-on to coil and relay mod

I own a electronic repair shop in South Ga. and we are right on the coast. Since we are on the coast we have to do things different than those out of the leeway of the moisture that is in the air that has salt mixed with it. You would know it has humidity.

This humidity has salt and fresh water mixed in it and it causes corrosion on metals faster than it would in say Atlanta or Chicago. The humidity in those towns still will cause corrosion but no where near as fast. So I am saying all that to this.

I have studied the Coil/Relay mod and I would like to share my two cents worth and if you take the extra steps that I will share you will find an even greater response in the already made mod.

Solderless or crimp connectors are good in a pinch but to do the job right there is one extra step that needs to be taken. You need to solder it.

When connecting a female spade connector ( the one that goes on the coil +/- feeds) it needs to be a bare connector. Before you connect the connector to the wire, first tin the stripped wire. Tinning is applying solder to the wire so it is coated with solder. Look on youtube for tinning wire there are many video's on there for that.

Once the wire is tinned. Then take a piece of heat shrink tubing (if you can't get it locally www.mcmelectronics.com www.mouser.com www.jameco.com are a few places that carry the heat shrink tubing). Make sure the heat shrink tubing is big enough to slide over the solderless connector. I will find the proper size and post it later.

Then take the solderless connector and crimp it onto the tinned wire. Then solder the solderless connector to the wire, you will know it is soldered correctly when the solder flows through both the wire and the connector. Once cooled, slip the heat shrink tubing over it and use an hot air gun or a hair dryer to shrink the tubing. If the tank isn't on the bike you can use an cigarette lighter to shrink the tubing.

There is a place in the mod where 3 bare wires are twisted together and soldered then taped up. This is ok, but they make butt connectors or splice connectors that you can place two tinned ends side by side (wires going to coils) into one end of the butt and the wire coming from the relay into the other. Then crimp the ends and solder so it is stronger. You can also use a larger size heat shrink tubing to cover this. They make a heat shrink tubing that has glue inside for underwater use that works well in this situation. Make sure you slide the tubing on before soldering, or disconnect the wire from the relay and slide it on, then shrink the tubing.

Use this method on the places the wires come in contact with a connector.

*Note* when tinning the wire, if there is too much solder it won't go into the connector. Just heat the tinned wire and slap the wire against a piece of wood or something. Remember the solder is around 800 degrees and if it hits you, you will look like a monkey getting in a space suite. Just a warning. Also I don't take any responsibility for any damage to your bike or yourself.

The extra steps I have told you is just improving connection in the mod that is already on the forum for the salt air regions, but will also prevent having to redo this procedure in the years to come.

I will probably be doing a video of a step by step of this entire procedure and place it on the forum for those who are a little nervous about the adventure.

*2nd note* use solder with rosin core not acid core. Acid core eats through things that you don't want ate. Also use an adequate soldering iron and not a mini torch.
You can look on youtube on how to basic solder.

If you have any questions about any of this you may ask.

Grace and Peace to you!
Richard
 

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Good tips! I had one year of electronics in high school and forgot most of it.

When I soldered my stator connections, amateur that I am, the heat shrink got shrunk prematurely by the heat from soldering.

To eliminate that, I slid the heat shrink down the line and wrapped a wet rag between the three wires about 4" from the solder joint. This was a heat sink to keep the heat from traveling under the heat shrink.

Someday, someone may uncover that job and say,'why did they do that?!' There's layers of heat shrink all over the stator lead, triple layers over the solder joints, and another layer over all of it, with insulating pieces between the three joints.

Also, I ended up with so much solder on the connections, I had to use a Dremel to shape it so the heat shrink would fit. Long story starting with a soldering gun that was almost hot enough.
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I almost suggested on the three way connection to go with a larger wire from the relay to the butt connector. That way when you heat shrink it, there won't be a gap on the single wire. I am going to get the parts and lay them out and let people know what they are because I am sure I am talking french to some on the forum.
 

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I forgot to add something to my post but on each terminal where the female spade connects to the spade connector like on the relay and coils both positive and negative, I would recommend dielectric grease. This is an updated version of vasoline with more staying power. It stops corrosion on the areas that can't be solder or covered from moisture. The ideal thing to do is to solder the tinned wires directly to the male spades but I am not sure the heat tolerance on the coil and relay while soldering.

This is a decent brand. Anything that will repel water but is not conductive.
www.hiddenhitches.com/p-11755/Dielectric_Grease_for_Electrical_Connectors_2_oz.html

Grace!
Richard
 

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Tried this

I did this mod on my 1992 vn750 Saturday (3 days ago) with a few tweaks, nothing special, just used insulated spade connectors and cloth electrical tape instead of shrink wrap.

I was having the worst time with hot starts; to the point of draining my battery trying to get the bike to start!

So far after three days, the bike fires up every time, no problem! Both hot and cold starts are seeming to work way better now. We took the bike out after we modded it in 85-90 degree weather for a good ride, got the thermo up to halfway, then shut off the bike for a few minutes... the bike fired to life better than it ever has!
 

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Orkron,

The only thing bad about using electrical tape over heat shrink is the heat from the engine will soften the glue on the tape and eventually let loose, thus exposing your connections.
 

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That's good to know, thankls for the tip!

On a side note, how hard on the battery is this mod? I've been doing well since I bypassed the r/r but this morning after the bike sat for 30 hours, the battery acted like it was almost dead... I'm half tempted to replace the battery since I was hard on it before this mod, and also tempted to replace my coils... unless someone out there has better advice?
 

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That's good to know, thankls for the tip!

On a side note, how hard on the battery is this mod? I've been doing well since I bypassed the r/r but this morning after the bike sat for 30 hours, the battery acted like it was almost dead... I'm half tempted to replace the battery since I was hard on it before this mod, and also tempted to replace my coils... unless someone out there has better advice?
It really isn't hard on the battery. As long as your charging system is healthy you shouldn't see an issue. I'd make sure you're using an AGM style battery.
 

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Before the mod, I was constantly killing my battery and trickle-charging it... new battery too... the levels were super low so added water and charged it again during the mod...

I think I must've just put too much strain on the battery though :/ So I guess I should buy a new one... Where should I look for an AGM battery? And what is that exactly...?'

[edit] okay so I read about AGM, but those are designed for heavy-load newer vehicles... people adding tons of extras like HID and fog lights etc... my bike is stock when it comes to the load on the battery - is there another reason to use that style battery?
 
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