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Discussion Starter #1
Been steadily working on this bike for about the last week, I know it has a weak ignition switch and from reading the coil relay mod, Would seem that the ignition switch could be a major culprit in all this.
Question, if this is the case would it stand to reason that the brown signal wire going to the regulator from the ignition switch, could give faulty readings as well, assuming the R/R uses this wire to to control its charging output. Havent found enough data on it. But would it be feasible to run the brown wire along with the coil power wires off the positive side of the relay on the coil mod, that way you assure yourself a viable source for battery voltage, Considering it takes a lot less to turn a relay on then to actually power up the lead and what it controls, Now thius being said I don't know the inner workings of the r/r completely, but someone with a bit more info please chime in. Im curious
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was assuming the ignition wire needed to be able to turn on and off with the key, White wire is hot all the time. Is this the case,
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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Been steadily working on this bike for about the last week, I know it has a weak ignition switch and from reading the coil relay mod, Would seem that the ignition switch could be a major culprit in all this.
Question, if this is the case would it stand to reason that the brown signal wire going to the regulator from the ignition switch, could give faulty readings as well, assuming the R/R uses this wire to to control its charging output. Havent found enough data on it. But would it be feasible to run the brown wire along with the coil power wires off the positive side of the relay on the coil mod, that way you assure yourself a viable source for battery voltage, Considering it takes a lot less to turn a relay on then to actually power up the lead and what it controls, Now thius being said I don't know the inner workings of the r/r completely, but someone with a bit more info please chime in. Im curious
Personally, thru a relay, I power the coils (Coil Mod) from the battery (attached @ Starter Solenoid).
It is a reliable source of 12V at any/all instant of time.
No voltage spikes/Hi's/ Low's etc...... In a way, it acts as a parallel voltage filter.

...just sayin'
:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #5
will be wiring the white wire directly to the battery through a 30 amp fuse. and running the ground to the battery as well. once the new harness and R/R get here that is.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That would be the case in this situation as well, but wondering if tying in the ignition feed brown wire to this relay source would be recommended, due to the high number of wiring issues this bike seems to have hampering it
Sometimes simplicity is the obvious approach
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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will be wiring the white wire directly to the battery through a 30 amp fuse. and running the ground to the battery as well. once the new harness and R/R get here that is.
That's basically what I did with mine (I grounded to the frame). I used the rear coil wire (red one) as the relay trigger, this way it's only on when the ignition is on and taped up the front coil wire (red) and tucked it away in case I decide that I want a relay for something up front in the future. Hot output from the relay goes to both coils.

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..have a vulcan good day!
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That's basically what I did with mine (I grounded to the frame). I used the rear coil wire (red one) as the relay trigger, this way it's only on when the ignition is on and taped up the front coil wire (red) and tucked it away in case I decide that I want a relay for something up front in the future. Hot output from the relay goes to both coils.

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x2 ...wired exactly same on my bike. The Relay, I mounted inside the right frame - up against the battery box with a zip-tie.

:smiley_th
 

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....that brown wire, by the way...runs straight to hell....the Kawasaki idiot engineers/designers decided to tie all kinds of stuff together....if you short out your horn, the rest in the circuit will go, and you cant start the bike.....stupid design....dumbazz engineering, inc....
 

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R/R = Relocated Redneck
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....that brown wire, by the way...runs straight to hell....the Kawasaki idiot engineers/designers decided to tie all kinds of stuff together....if you short out your horn, the rest in the circuit will go, and you cant start the bike.....stupid design....dumbazz engineering, inc....
Tell me about it... That brown wire controls the brake lights... Switch shorted, main fuse popped... Redneck engineering (aka jumper in place of fuse)... Fried half of the wiring harness.

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so thinking the brown wire from the ignition switch will be deleted from the regulator then. Will just jumper off the relay power that will be run to the coils and go directly to the regulator key on power. Which should totally isolate the charging system with the exception of the lead that comes from the stator to the lighting module
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well after reading the wiring diagram a little closer, and following what the brown wire goes to, I believe I see what they were trying to achieve, The brown wire carries a load, I assume the rectifier reads this current draw and boost the charging system, prob ought to just verify it has a decent 12 volt current across it and stick with it. Again this is just my assumption, cant really see the insides of the regulator and how or what its supposed to do
 

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You're assumption is correct. The regulator sensed three voltage increase or decrease through the load on the brown wire. If there is a large draw on three system, the r/r will open the charging circuit inside and allow as much voltage as possible to reach the battery, when three battery catches up, and the strain isn't so much, the charging circuit opens and the shunting side closes. All of this happens in nano seconds very very fast.

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Discussion Starter #14
Kind of my thought on a digital voltmeter I ordered as well, Built new stainless plates so I could mount aftermarket turn signals in stock location, although they don't have running lights in them, will use one leg of the running light wire to the turn lights as a voltmeter positive side. so I can see the actual draw and increase so it can be monitored, while the other lead from the opposite side can run a pair of running lights.
 

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It's pretty convenient using that connection, however, it won't give you a true representation of what's going on with your charging system. There is a voltage drop through the junction box that isn't accounted for, so the voltmeter may read artificially low. The best source for the voltmeter is direct from the battery. If you want the voltmeter on all the time, you need a continuous source (battery, hot leg at starter or white/blue stripe wire in headlight bucket). If you want it on only when the ignition is on and you've used the battery as your hot source for the coil relay mod, you can tie into the front coil connection as your source for the voltmeter. They draw a miniscule amount of energy, so it wont affect performance, but it will give you a truer representation of whats going on with your charging system.
 
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