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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I've a 1990 I'm trying to get right and I'm hoping the coil relay mod would be a big help, it's kinda hard to start, especially when cold starting but I can't actually find the diagram that's talked about. Could someone maybe post a fresh copy?
Thanks much, Doug.
 

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You were close, but looking in the electrical section of the Vulcan Verses. The link below is in the main forum, Electrical section.


Edit: Well below is the thread for it and there's some descriptions, but no actual diagrams.


 

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Was able to find this through a Google search, diagram in the second post.

 

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Pick up coil mod was the single biggest improvement I made to this bike. The difference is night and day. Here’s a post that outlines the procedure. I’ve also attached some pics of my coil brackets modified.


Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Headgear Rim
Automotive tire Finger Tool Thumb Auto part
 

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I did the relay mod and I didn't find any change in how it started or ran. I kept the mod because it also didn't do any harm either.
I ended up using the added relay to also power some additional lighting.

The pickup coil mod, AGM batteries and iridium spark plugs all seem to help more than the relay mod does.
I would definitely recommend those mods.
 
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I found the easiest way to file down the bracket is with a Dremmel on low speed and I used a cheap diamond coated burr bit from Harbor freight. Took me longer to get the cover plate off than to do the mods.
Brass feeler gauges are easier to use than steel just because of the magnets, but that’s all I had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi again, sorry it took so long to get back but we've been having some wacky weather with Ian aloft. Thank everyone for your responses, I think it helped me figure out what was stumbling me. For the coil relay mod, I do only have 11 something volts at the front coil, haven't had a chance to check the back but I figure it doesn't matter anyway since I'll prob do the mod. What was tripping me up was I was thinking I had to tie into the fuse box or something, but the numbers I've been seeing like 30 or 36 and 86 or 87 are labeled on the new relay I will get, its not like in timing into the junction box or anything? So, basically, I'm putting relay in coming off battery terminal, grounding to frame and running to positive connections on coils from a 3 way split? Correct?
So far as the pickup coil mod, I'll look into that once I get a chance to complete the Coil relay mod but if I'm missing something in my above assumptions please let me know and thanks again to all.
 

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Hi again, sorry it took so long to get back but we've been having some wacky weather with Ian aloft. Thank everyone for your responses, I think it helped me figure out what was stumbling me. For the coil relay mod, I do only have 11 something volts at the front coil, haven't had a chance to check the back but I figure it doesn't matter anyway since I'll prob do the mod. What was tripping me up was I was thinking I had to tie into the fuse box or something, but the numbers I've been seeing like 30 or 36 and 86 or 87 are labeled on the new relay I will get, its not like in timing into the junction box or anything? So, basically, I'm putting relay in coming off battery terminal, grounding to frame and running to positive connections on coils from a 3 way split? Correct?
So far as the pickup coil mod, I'll look into that once I get a chance to complete the Coil relay mod but if I'm missing something in my above assumptions please let me know and thanks again to all.
You're on track, just need a switched 12v power to trigger the relay so it only activates when the key is turned on... but there won't be a 3-way split. Just run a 12v+ from the switched side of the relay to each coil (2-way split).

The idea is to take the Junction Box out of the circuits as much as possible, and bypass the stock wiring.

A fan relay is my next wiring mod, using the same type of relay. The relay does have a terminal diagram on it.
 

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I used the wire that originally went to the rear coil to power the relay coil. It has the same connector so it fits right into the relay. No splicing needed. That way the cutoff switch still kills coil power. Then the relay ground goes to frame (or battery negative).
 
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