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Clint '89
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I Coastered, did the ear shave- without rejetting, changed the coolant and did a major clean up of rust on the frame, painted it- (as well as the battery box) remounted the stator, cleaned all my nuts and bolts, and electrical, used clear nail polish, sanded and primed the tins, I also had a snapped header stud, I had to remove the front exhaust manifold and heat it with an acetylene torch to get it out, and replace it.

Coastered, Ear Shave, New 50/50 Coolant, Exhaust (sounds as if its leaking?) Slaping sound?

It started great! It started to get warm so.I turned it off to adjust something feeling great, confident. Exited to check the air pressure in the tires.


Excited about riding, I flooded it starting it... battery started to get weak, (all the electrical testing)
Attached the charger, turned off thefuel- let it warm up. Now with all the cleaning products degreasers rust beakers lubricants, new paint, I expected it to smoke. and it did but not much, I found a loose coolant hose under the radiator. There was how ever smoke pouring up off the now tight exhaust, I.let it get warmer listening to the 'slap' that was there before everything, (which I thought was the open exhaust).

So its still there, slapping as it idles 1100 rpm (fuel on) warming up hose tightened, still smoking rev it a few times can hear the carbs behind the K&N filters, check the temp, not even half, fan comes on then she stalls.

I'm terrified, my old man has been behind myback this whole time givingme horor stories of ruined engines. I've put a lot of time and love into this thing, maybe I'm just over reacting.

I'll check all the hoses avalon tomorrow. What might have caused it to stall?

I may need to adjust the carburators, I assume the Clymer manual will give a run down on rich and lean mixes, but the stalling- if there was another leak running onto the header flange, would it have shut down because of coolant pressure?
 

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83 Posts
Why did you do the ear shave without rejetting? It's going to run lean. The slapping at idle is probably acct's going bad. Very common. Stalling has nothing to do with coolant. You probably have your carbs out of whack..but I don't know if I'd ride it at all with an ear shave and stock jets.

Also, are you starting with the choke pulled all the way?

Oh, and it could have stalled because the battery died. It doesn't charge at idle
 

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120 Posts
I hate to hijack but what kind of seat is that?
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
Why did you do the ear shave without rejetting? It's going to run lean. The slapping at idle is probably acct's going bad. Very common. Stalling has nothing to do with coolant. You probably have your carbs out of whack..but I don't know if I'd ride it at all with an ear shave and stock jets.

Also, are you starting with the choke pulled all the way?

Oh, and it could have stalled because the battery died. It doesn't charge at idle
thats what I was thinking, you said it stalled when the fan kicked on which would have been a lot more draw on the battery sitting and idling, how old is the battery, what kind and have you charged it lately. if not charge it and have it load tested at autozone or somewhere.

as for the slapping, is it in the front or rear cylinder or both?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
If your battery is weak, won`t hold a charge or is more than a couple of years old, change it out for a Maintenance Free- AGM battery. This Deka is a good one at a good price:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Deka-ETX15L-Powersports-AGM-Battery-100-NEW-/270282472155?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item3eee173adb

You can find similar high quality batteries locally too. Yuasa and Sears Die-Hard are a couple of more good brands. Stay away from cheap Chinese junk. Most of it is low quality and won`t last.

The slapping sound could be the Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners (ACCT) as mentioned.

Go to the Vulcan verses and read about the Grambo Trick. Basicly you just screw the little sealing bolt off the end of the ACCT, stick a small flathead screwdriver inside, back the screw off half a turn CCW and let the spring snap back to see if it will apply more pressure on the tensioner. If the noise doesn`t diminish, put the screwdriver back in and apply some pressure Clockwise. If the noise lessens or stops you have a weak spring in the ACCT.

There are several cures ranging in cost from just a few $, up to ~$50 apiece for new Manual CCTs from TOC manufacturing. Try the grambo trick and report your results. We will help you find the right solution. Be careful with the small screw that seals the end of the ACCT. Don`t apply much torque when you put it back in or you will strip out the threads. :(
 
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