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I have a project bike, 85 vn700 that I just got running and I'm dead near finished working on it, but, now the clutch isn't working properly. I haven't had the chance to throw a new back tire on it and take it for a spin yet, but I tried putting it in gear and the clutch didn't do anything when I pulled on it, it stayed in gear at the rear. I just replaced the lever and the cable, I feel like it's just slightly off adjustment at best. Also, it's not going into neutral all of a sudden, and so now I can't get it to start due to a security lock. Any help is appreciated. Thank you!!!
 

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Do you have the manual? There is a real thin line between the clutch working and not catching. The shift mechanism down on the crank case needs to be at a 75 to 80 degree angle with the cable. There is a groove on this shift lever that should be lined up with the rib on the crankcase right at the point where the cable starts to disengage the plates. If this isn’t lined up it’ll throw the whole cable adjustment off.
Also if the bike doesn’t want to get into neutral you may want to try and rock the bike back n forth just a little to see if it can pop into neutral.
Here’s a pic of the shaft NOT aligned properly
64359B77-AD94-4304-B604-F5919D61326F.jpeg
 

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So, do I take the cable off and then align the shift mechanism and then adjust the cable from there? I will be honest, I don't think it is aligned right there.
 

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Yes, I think it’s a 10mm bolt, loosen the cable, line it up and start from the mid-span adjuster, then fine tune it at the handlebar
 

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It not that bad at all, the key is once you get it “set”, verify you can operate the clutch with the handlebars turned all the way in either direction. So when your adjusting it, keep the wheel straight and then make sure it works through the whole range of motion.
 

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Hi Everyone - So on my 86 750 Vulcan, I am just coming up to 27,000 miles. Def time for friction discs, I get slipping on high revs. It appears that once I remove outside clutch cover, I can remove the 5 bolts and springs and just fish out the discs and plates. Is that correct? Looks like it should be that easy, then torque to 78 inch lbs. I know how to adjust cable, learned it here, but clutch is just too warn now. Do I actually have to deal with removing the basket, etc, or am I good with just the 5 inner bolts with the springs, and then put new gasket on outside cover? Thanks for any info! Mike
 

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You don’t need to remove the basket to change the plates. I’d recommend changing the springs as well. The last few plates are a pain to get out so I used a short length of 12-2 wire and bent the end about a 1/4 inch to hook the plates to pull them out.
The torque value for the bolts is 52-69 inch lbs according to the manual. Also you’ll need to replace the gasket. I also had to put RTV on the gasket because it’s so thin it leaked on its own.
 

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You don’t need to remove the basket to change the plates. I’d recommend changing the springs as well. The last few plates are a pain to get out so I used a short length of 12-2 wire and bent the end about a 1/4 inch to hook the plates to pull them out.
The torque value for the bolts is 52-69 inch lbs according to the manual. Also you’ll need to replace the gasket. I also had to put RTV on the gasket because it’s so thin it leaked on its own.
Thank You so much, mmart! Looks like a fairly easy job. I have a handful of picks from a pick set that I'm hoping will grab the last few plates\discs. I do have 12-2 wire if needed. I will torque to your specs, 52-69 inch lbs, and use rtv lightly on gasket surfaces. I did order springs, friction discs, and plates. Hoping I'll be good to go! Lastly, I will unhook cable from lever on other side before starting, or at least loosen middle adjuster in cable and then readjust once installed. Will the pushrod be any issue, or is it REALLY this easy? I've seen some posts where people do in under30 minutes! I'll also soak friction discs in oil several hours, if not overnight before I do this.
 
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I didn’t have to unhook the cable, and here’s a link for the service manual

Thanks mmart! I have the manual, but the PDF is just grainy. Not unhooking the cable is even better. I'll just make sure, after I finish clutch plates\discs, that the groove lines up with the case where the cable attaches(that pivot arm). I'll then screw in adjuster on handlebar until it just fits a nickel in between adjuster and bracket. Then I will take up all the slack, if any, in the middle of the cable itself. Hopefully, I can then just fine tune it with all the adjustment I have left on clutch adjuster on handlebar.
 

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There is another adjuster on the mid span of the cable as well.
I sent over the manual because there’s a table in there that shows all the bolts by size with the associated torque values. I didn’t see this when I first started working on my clutch but another member helped me out.
 

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Do the mid adjustment first, then adjust the nickel-width freeplay at the hand lever. Might need to begin by turning the hand lever adjustment all the way in, then go to the mid-point.

I wonder why the manual pdf is grainy? That looks like the same link I have.

VN750_Vulcan_Service_Manual_Parts_Catalogue

edit: Never mind, it's the same link. Maybe it's your pdf reader?
 

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Do the mid adjustment first, then adjust the nickel-width freeplay at the hand lever. Might need to begin by turning the hand lever adjustment all the way in, then go to the mid-point.

I wonder why the manual pdf is grainy? That looks like the same link I have.

VN750_Vulcan_Service_Manual_Parts_Catalogue

edit: Might not be the same link, try the one above.
Spockster,
That is your link 😉
My copy is on my Dropbox and a pain to share.
 

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Spockster,
That is your link 😉
My copy is on my Dropbox and a pain to share.
Yeah I saw that, don't know why it's fuzzy unless it's the PDF reader. Working on my end, but only on the PC, haven't tried it on my phone.
 

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Yeah I saw that, don't know why it's fuzzy unless it's the PDF reader. Working on my end, but only on the PC, haven't tried it on my phone.
Hey Spockster! It's just old school grainy on my PC. It is usable(the PDF). Plates, springs, and discs should be here today. I will soak them in oil until ready to tackle job. It may be a week, too much crap to do! Even though I have the manual, I'm a bit confused on what to torque, to what inch lbs. The 5 springs, and the cover bolts(7 of them I believe) are all I need to torque. Anyone know off top of head how many inch lbs these two different sets of bolts should be torqued to? I see mmart said 52-69 inch lbs, but which set of bolts? I believe he is referring to the cover bolts... Thoughts?
 

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Hey Spockster! It's just old school grainy on my PC. It is usable(the PDF). Plates, springs, and discs should be here today. I will soak them in oil until ready to tackle job. It may be a week, too much crap to do! Even though I have the manual, I'm a bit confused on what to torque, to what inch lbs. The 5 springs, and the cover bolts(7 of them I believe) are all I need to torque. Anyone know off top of head how many inch lbs these two different sets of bolts should be torqued to? I see mmart said 52-69 inch lbs, but which set of bolts? I believe he is referring to the cover bolts... Thoughts?
since you have the manual, in the clutch section there is an exploded diagram. The torque values for the spring nuts is shown there and for the outer cover there is a table in the general specifications section that lists torque values by bolt size. I believe for these the range is 52-69 inch lbs

reference page 4 in this thread for both

 

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Well I found the spec for the springs where you said they would be, mmart. 78in lbs on those. I've scoured the general section for the round cover bolts, but cant find em. I'm sure I will. Clutch discs are taking a bath in oil until this weekend, should be plenty of time to soak. I know the bolts for the cover are 6x16 in size, Just cant find recommended torque for those final seven bolts. You mention to reference page 4 of this thread, but I don't see a "page 4" on this thread. I found a different thread somewhere that says 87 inch lbs for those bolts, but it doesnt specify the year of bike, and I believe it refers to the whole side cover, not just the round clutch cover.. I really want to do it right. In case anyone needs to see the spring torque, I'm attaching a photo of it to try to help...
53232
 

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I meant the actual 4th page of replies on the thread I linked, it was an attached pic. I made the same mistake with the torque value “T4” is the outer cover.
All good, simple misunderstanding. Here’s the pic I was referring to
B9E16F6A-CBAE-4BA5-95CB-5FB440EE5204.jpeg
 

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I meant the actual 4th page of replies on the thread I linked, it was an attached pic. I made the same mistake with the torque value “T4” is the outer cover.
All good, simple misunderstanding. Here’s the pic I was referring to
View attachment 53233
Thanks mmart!! I did find that table. Since the bolt is a 6x16, I figured the spec is what you said earlier, 52-69 inch lbs. Those should be all the torques I need!!
 
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