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Grumpy Old Man
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If I physically move this end it will take the free play out at the lever.
At rest there is free play.
So there for I assume that is where it wants to be at when engaged because with the free play there are no outside forces holding it.



Apologies if I’m taking this too far, boring day today.
 

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I adjusted the arm on mine this weekend also, to line up with mark on housing. My fine tuning threaded screw was 1\2" or even more out from clutch body before adjusting arm. Once I adjusted pivot arm at motor, I warmed it up on center stand. I then found I had to adjust fine tune screw on handle bar practically all the way in, to shift in and out of gear and have the rear tire have just the slightest movement. I went riding for awhile after, and slowly adjusted fine tuning screw out from clutch body to feel what would happen. I found I got to the point where the RPM's took off but I didn't, lol. I turned it maybe one turn back in, and problem seemed to resolve. It's maybe 1\4 of the distance it was from clutch body now. I do wish the clutch lever didn't have to be released so far out to engage\disengage, gets tiring on hand, but it is what it is. Never messed with the coarse adjustment in center of cable.
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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Ya, but the movement at the lever is much greater than the movement at the clutch because of where the pivot point on the lever is.

A little less free play at lever, less lever movement to disengage, but possibly not fully engage .
A little more free play at lever, less lever movement to engage, but possibly not fully disengage.

Me thinks
 

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Ya, but the movement at the lever is much greater than the movement at the clutch because of where the pivot point on the lever is.

A little less free play at lever, less lever movement to disengage, but possibly not fully engage .
A little more free play at lever, less lever movement to engage, but possibly not fully disengage.

Me thinks
Agreed, Scooter. That's why I am going to just live with it releasing at the lever at about 3\4 the way out. When I lined up the marks on the arm down below, I made sure the notched stud from transmission that it mounts too, was tight, as turning other way created no pressure. Pivoting towards front of bike left no slack. I also made sure I didn't add any extra pressure. Just snug. I had my lever knob turned all the way in, and it's not too far out now. Seems to be that happy medium I guess, and the slot on arm, and line on case are still lined up. Finicky bike for sure, but worth it.
 

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I played with mine again over lunch, and I cannot get the cable tight enough when I align on the mark.
 

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make sure when you adjust the lever at the engine that the shaft it attaches to is turned (by hand) clockwise (I think) (viewed from bottom). if you dont take the free play out of that rack/pinion assembly you will never get the cable adjusted right. the procedure is listed in the service manual
 

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I played with mine again over lunch, and I cannot get the cable tight enough when I align on the mark.
Try to reattach it with the rib towards the front of the bike instead of lining it up. That’ll give you more slack to take up. I’m not sure that will help you because you have a different cable. But that’s what I did. First try I completely loosened both adjusters and lined it up and as soon as I tried to tighten it up it started to go out of alignment again. So after a little trial and error it I got it all lined up. But the rib being aligned was my end state not where I started.
 

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make sure when you adjust the lever at the engine that the shaft it attaches to is turned (by hand) clockwise (I think) (viewed from bottom). if you dont take the free play out of that rack/pinion assembly you will never get the cable adjusted right. the procedure is listed in the service manual
Very important and I forgot until now. Can only hit 'like' once on the post.
 

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Once I get the fork for the 700 put back together, I’ll go try the clutch adjustment again. So the farmer I bought this from had 100% stripped out the Allan bolt, and used NP-1 (caulk) in the bolt. It was some white stuff that felt like caulk. I had to drill out the bolt head until I hit the copper washer, and then heat the piston with a map torch until I was able to break the stud loose. After I used the tap on the piston, it’s good to go for the new bolt... but seriously... caulk? It could be Teflon tape, but it felt like caulk
 

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There are compounds that will do amazing things. Not sure where this Allen head is, and piston,.. in the forks? On the bottom of the forks, they used threadlocker, better to heat those unless you have really good metric Allen wrench. SAE Allen will just ruin the fork job every time.
 

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make sure when you adjust the lever at the engine that the shaft it attaches to is turned (by hand) clockwise (I think) (viewed from bottom). if you dont take the free play out of that rack/pinion assembly you will never get the cable adjusted right. the procedure is listed in the service manual
I think this is where I am going wrong. I need to spin the little nubbins all of the clockwise (not counter clockwise?), and THEN put the arm on, lined up with the line on case. That would explain why there's more slack than I can handle! And probably why I had the arm adjusted so far (3/8" at least) past the mark on the case, towards the front of the bike. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.
 

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I think this is where I am going wrong. I need to spin the little nubbins all of the clockwise (not counter clockwise?), and THEN put the arm on, lined up with the line on case. That would explain why there's more slack than I can handle! And probably why I had the arm adjusted so far (3/8" at least) past the mark on the case, towards the front of the bike. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.
MSattler - It is counterclockwise as you sit beside bike working on it(overhead view). I did mine last week, turn until tight clockwise towards front of bike, install arm so it aligns with mark on side case. Easy stuff. 10mm socket does it. Then I adjusted knob at handlebar way in compared to before the alignment. :smiley_th
 
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I think this is where I am going wrong. I need to spin the little nubbins all of the clockwise (not counter clockwise?), and THEN put the arm on, lined up with the line on case. That would explain why there's more slack than I can handle! And probably why I had the arm adjusted so far (3/8" at least) past the mark on the case, towards the front of the bike. The KZ500 cables are much shorter, so if anything, it would have less slack naturally.
MSattler - It is counterclockwise as you sit beside bike working on it(overhead view). I did mine last week, turn until tight clockwise towards front of bike, install arm so it aligns with mark on side case. Easy stuff. 10mm socket does it. Then I adjusted knob at handlebar way in compared to before the alignment. /forum/images/smilies/smiley_thumbs_up.gif

As per some of the smart folks on this site, the mid span is the coarse adjustment and the one at the lever is the fine adjustment. Meaning most of the slack should be taken up span and the lever is for more fine tuning it
 

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As per some of the smart folks on this site, the mid span is the coarse adjustment and the one at the lever is the fine adjustment. Meaning most of the slack should be taken up span and the lever is for more fine tuning it
Yes, some very smart people here. I also think it's smart that if you adjust the clutch arm, and previous owner had fine tuning knob almost all the way out, to adjust it in more, leaving more room for future adjustment. It's much better now, and I can now adjust from both points, handlebar(fine) or cable(coarse). Smart. :nerd:
 

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I think I have to reroute my cables, as there seems to be more slack than the course can take up. So course adjuster closer together increases the slack, right? When I had the fine adjuster screwed almost all of the way out, and the course adjuster loosened all of the way, that was when the cable seemed to be the tightest


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Grumpy Old Man
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Think of it this way …. If you shorten the length of the cable housing you lengthen the exposed inside cable (looser,more slack). If you lengthen the cable housing you in turn shorten the exposed inside cable (tighter, less slack)

Because it is all about how much inner cable is sticking out.

So yep I think your on right track.

Mid adjust closed up close together = more slack, more cable sticking out.
Same thing at the lever .

So basically it does not matter how long the total cable is, because your only concern is the part that is exposed.
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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MSattler;1286399. The KZ500 cables are much shorter said:
Just a thought …. Is it possible your KZ500 cables are designed to have more or less cable exposed (sticking out) for a different clutch arm or lever configuration, so then you would be fighting it one way or the other?
 
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