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Thanks guys, I will have to try this, as this is a recent thing. I have not adjusted the clutch cable since I had to redo the pawl spring (for the umpteenth time), so I will try that first. As Teddy said, I don't think it would be the splines, as I have just taken that apart and lubed everything. I've never replaced a clutch, is there anything else I should look at while I am in there?
I missed the clutch part of your Pm (if I'm not mixed up this morning).

Agreed, clutch.

Before you open the clutch case, make sure you have the correct oil. Know what type of oil is in there. The wrong oil slips the clutch every time.

With the right oil in it and still slipping after some warmups, check the "clutch arm" at the bevel gear, make sure the gap aligns with the mark on the case as close as possible.

Next, check the fine cable adjustment at the hand lever. Free play should be about the width of a nickel - 5 cents - between the lever and the perch (see manual).

Make fine adjustments slowly, test, retest. It's a fine line between slipping and harsh shifting into 1st gear. If the fine adjustment seems wrong, thread the fine adjustment all the way in, then take up some slack at the coarse adjustment at the midpoint of the cable run. Then go back to the fine adjustment.

Mine slipped because of the oil, some Valvoline "energy saving" crap. No bueno in fun machines,. Rotella T 15W40 conventional has been in my bike since, most all oils suggested in the forum are good., syntheteic, etc. There's oil code on the bottle, what is it guys? Im birdbrained.

I did the fine adjustment before the oil, so I had to go back and adjust. A few blocks and three stops, she was fine after a good warmup with the right oil. If it slipped I adjusted the cable looser/more play, if it gnashed into 1st gear or pulled at a stop, I made the cable pull tighter/farther. 1/4 turn, then cut down to 1/8 turns or even 1/16 turn, a fine adjustment.

Do the adjusting warm, fully warm. But don't burn the clutch to warm it up.
 

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Yeah, that was in the PM this morning. I will have to check what type of oil it was, but it was the oil that I posted that I got for $1 a qt. It is Castrol synthetic. To share with everyone else what I sent in the pm to you... When shifting from 1st to 2nd, it sometimes gets stuck in neutral (embarrassing and potentially unsafe). There seems to be some performance loss throughout all gears as well. Regarding the free play, I adjust all of my freeplay out. There is tension the whole way through the lever travel.
 

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. When shifting from 1st to 2nd, it sometimes gets stuck in neutral (embarrassing and potentially unsafe). There seems to be some performance loss throughout all gears as well.

Regarding the free play, I adjust all of my freeplay out. There is tension the whole way through the lever travel.
That's 90% why the clutch slips. The neutral could be from the free play too, or it could have sludge in the neutral finder, or gas in the oil.

Hopefully, it's not a shift rod/clip problem, never be rough on the shifter. Dirt bikes and older streeters can take it, VN cannot, will not. Laying it down on the shifter side will kill the shift link rod or the clip inside the case.
 

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I will adjust it for the ride home tonight at the lever. See if that helps


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Can you post a link to that page? The photo is too small to read
 

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Just finished adjusting everything. Torque is restored!
Make sure this this is aligned at the bottom or no amount of adjusting at the mid span or lever will work. I loosened the cable all the way at both adjusters, pulled this off and reset it a little to left, lined up the rib by adjusting the mid span, than took the slack out at the lever. Recheck in a few months.
 

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as far as the cable adjustment goes, I would inspect it every oil change.

if the clutch lever on the engine is moving, you have a problem with the splines on the lever or the shaft, it shouldnt slip at all. the bolt is just to keep it from falling off if it loosens
 

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as far as the cable adjustment goes, I would inspect it every oil change.

if the clutch lever on the engine is moving, you have a problem with the splines on the lever or the shaft, it shouldnt slip at all. the bolt is just to keep it from falling off if it loosens
I’m assuming you were responding to my post, if not I apologize,
I don’t think my clutch lever on the engine is “slipping” it takes a fair amount of force to get it off once the bolt is removed. I don’t feel any play I’m it with the bolt out either. I think my issue is me just being a knucklehead. The lock nut for the mid span is right behind my crash bar and I don’t think I snugged it too well last time and normal vibration just loosened it up. It’s a learning experience lol. Test ride today felt real good.
 

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Just finished adjusting everything. Torque is restored!
Make sure this this is aligned at the bottom or no amount of adjusting at the mid span or lever will work. I loosened the cable all the way at both adjusters, pulled this off and reset it a little to left, lined up the rib by adjusting the mid span, than took the slack out at the lever. Recheck in a few months.
Sounds like you got there, but the clutch arm should go on it's alignment first, then assemble the cable to the installed arm, then slack and free-play. But it works now!

Well I think that's what you did, we just said it differently.
 

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Free play is key.

If you take all the free play out on a car, you kill the throwout bearing and pressure plate.
 

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Just finished adjusting everything. Torque is restored!
Make sure this this is aligned at the bottom or no amount of adjusting at the mid span or lever will work. I loosened the cable all the way at both adjusters, pulled this off and reset it a little to left, lined up the rib by adjusting the mid span, than took the slack out at the lever. Recheck in a few months.
Sounds like you got there, but the clutch arm should go on it's alignment first, then assemble the cable to the installed arm, then slack and free-play. But it works now!

Well I think that's what you did, we just said it differently.
Ha, yes but I explained it in “noob mechanic” speak lol. When I first pulled the arm off I centered it and bolted it back on. When I tightened the mid span it seemed to pull it off center again so I started over and moved it over just a little towards the front of the bike. Then when I started to tighten the adjusters it lined right up. The pic I sent is the “after” so I’m satisfied but keeping an eye on it.
 

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So I went to adjust mine last night, and still wasn't happy with it. I lined up the arm on the spline first. It seemed that separating the nut made the cables shorter when undone, and then I had to back out the upper bolt until only a couple of threads were in. I took it out around the block, and it still seemed off. I will try it again today, if the rain stops. BTW, I have the kz500 cables, since I have the aftermarket bars. I did get the gap to be the width of a nickle when you pull on the lever, before the arm starts to move. Otherwise, there isn't much a gap as the lever sits there. Oh yeah, I have an aftermarket clutch and brake housing too.
 

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So I went to adjust mine last night, and still wasn't happy with it. I lined up the arm on the spline first. It seemed that separating the nut made the cables shorter when undone, and then I had to back out the upper bolt until only a couple of threads were in. I took it out around the block, and it still seemed off. I will try it again today, if the rain stops. BTW, I have the kz500 cables, since I have the aftermarket bars. I did get the gap to be the width of a nickle when you pull on the lever, before the arm starts to move. Otherwise, there isn't much a gap as the lever sits there. Oh yeah, I have an aftermarket clutch and brake housing too.
When they say “gap” I interpret that as “free play” or how much the lever will move before it actually starts to pull on the cable. If you were to look at my lever it appears to sit flush.
 

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With the lever at rest I have a pretty good gap, and I literally have to push lever to close up the gap.

Way more than a nickel but is grabs correctly & is totally engaging. So my thinking is lever is at least a 1/4” loose from actually moving anything.

As you can see I do have enough adjustment to take some of the slack out to decrease the gap. Maybe with that much free play I’m not totally disengaging, but I don’t thing so ?
 

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You guys are doing good. The five cent gap is just a guideline, in my opinion. There's one sweet spot where the adjustment needs to be.... Not slipping, not dragging, and some free play left when you're in that sweet spot.
 

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Everybody’s cables will wear/stretch a little differently. I live in the city and use the clutch constantly, I rarely put it in neutral at a stop light like others do. That’s how I was taught in my MSP. I’m sure it was mentioned but just make sure the handle bars are straight when making the adjustments and then make sure it works with them turned fully in each direction. Last time I did it I couldn’t take off with handlebars pointed to the left, oops! Lesson learned.
 
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