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I saw that in the manual. What's the "inner cable tip"? The clutch cable?

One thing I don't understand is that if rotating the lever on the case is pushing the push rod, then if I push it hard enough (regardless of the position of the lever or cable adjustment) then the clutch should release right?
Yes, inner cable just refers to the wire cable... inside the sheath or outer cable.

I think it should release if nothing stops you from turning far enough. If the shaft is way off the alignment, that might make the difference.

Did the clutch work before the stator job?
 

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Yes to both questions, If you’re looking down at the bike and you turn the lever counter-clockwise the clutch should start to disengage when the lever gets hard to turn. Loosen the cable as much as possible to get the right position and then adjust it when you get it lined up to take up the slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yes, inner cable just refers to the wire cable... inside the sheath or outer cable.

I think it should release if nothing stops you from turning far enough. If the shaft is way off the alignment, that might make the difference.

Did the clutch work before the stator job?
It did work before the stator job, and I never removed the case lever, only disconnected the cable.

Yes to both questions, If you’re looking down at the bike and you turn the lever counter-clockwise the clutch should start to disengage when the lever gets hard to turn. Loosen the cable as much as possible to get the right position and then adjust it when you get it lined up to take up the slack.
That's the issue, nothing happens when the lever starts to get hard to turn.
 

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Not sure what's happening here, but it will be harder to troubleshoot with the alignment so far off.

It has spring action, but no release, as if the clutch discs are stuck together. Has the engine been warned up yet? That can free stuck clutch plates.
 

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It did work before the stator job, and I never removed the case lever, only disconnected the cable.


That's the issue, nothing happens when the lever starts to get hard to turn.
just so I understand when you say “nothing happens” what do you mean? It’s fairly difficult to disengage the clutch pushing that lever by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
just so I understand when you say “nothing happens” what do you mean? It’s fairly difficult to disengage the clutch pushing that lever by hand.
Right, I can't move that lever on the case by hand. I was using a wrench for leverage.
Nothing happens, meaning when I turn that lever (either from the handlebar lever or with a wrench on the case lever) it doesn't disengage the clutch as it should.
I also tried warming it up (idling for 15 mins) and nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
And to be as clear as possible....
The lever attached to the shaft on the bevel gear case is aligned correctly. The lines on the lever and on the case cover are lined up, with the shaft turned as far clockwise as it will go (before it starts pushing on the plates and becomes too difficult to turn by hand).
If I try turning the lever farther, so that the mark on the lever goes past the mark on the gear case, the clutch does not change. So it's in gear, and the clutch should be "pulled" (disengaged?) but the wheel does not turn. And the wheel does turn fine in neutral.
The gear rack on the inside of the case is pushing the push rod. It has a lot of resistance as you would expect, and springs back normally. So basically, it feels exactly like it should.

I had not touched the lever position on the shaft, or taken out any of the gears on the inside of the bevel gear case. I did not touch the clutch cable other than disconnecting it on the gear case side, from the lever on the case shaft. All I did was remove the bevel gear case, then install it again.
I would really, really appreciate any help with this. Really frustrating because it feels like I did change anything. The clutch worked totally fine before. I don't want to take it to a mechanic. It's mainly frustrating because anytime I ask someone online for help, they tell me to adjust the clutch cable, which is totally irrelevant here.

Finally, if possible, can anyone take a photo of the lever on the shaft with the clutch pulled so I can see how far it goes?
 

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If you try to start it in gear, I assume the bike tries to move?

Might have to pull the clutch cover and see if everything is moving correctly. Broken clutch basket? Trying to visualize it but I need a drawing.

I can try pics tomorrow if you don't get them sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
If you try to start it in gear, I assume the bike tries to move?

Might have to pull the clutch cover and see if everything is moving correctly. Broken clutch basket? Trying to visualize it but I need a drawing.

I can try pics tomorrow if you don't get them sooner.
I haven't tried starting it in gear without the center stand, but the wheel does move and jump as I start it in gear.
Guess I'll have to take a look at the clutch basket on the other side. Such a pain to have to drain the oil again..
 

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Put the wheel on the ground, in gear, hold clutch lever, and try the starter.

It's a longshot but it is normal for the wheel to turn when off the ground, even in neutral.

Though it does look locked up when you hit it with your foot.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Put the wheel on the ground, in gear, hold clutch lever, and try the starter.

It's a longshot but it is normal for the wheel to turn when off the ground, even in neutral.

Though it does look locked up when you hit it with your foot.
Unfortunately it's not doing the slow spin it does when in neutral, like I've seen with other bikes. It's very solidly in gear, even when pulling the clutch lever (not even a little bit of slipping when I try turning the wheel by hand).
 

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PS....

With the bike on the side stand, I think you can pull the round clutch cover without losing oil.
 

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Link to clutch parts diagram...


Best idea I have right now is the outer plate is moving and the springs compressing, but clutch pack is somehow seized and stuck together. Like coffee grinder syndrome in reverse.

With coffee grinder, the clutch pack sticks in the released position, then suddenly breaks free. Like involuntarily popping the clutch. Threw me onto the pavement once. It's a lack of oil after sitting, and a cold clutch pack.

If you were confident about riding with this clutch condition, a ride might straighten it out. But if you're not sure about controlling and stopping the bike, don't try it.

Edit... Could have a cracked clutch basket too.
 

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And to be as clear as possible....
The lever attached to the shaft on the bevel gear case is aligned correctly. The lines on the lever and on the case cover are lined up, with the shaft turned as far clockwise as it will go (before it starts pushing on the plates and becomes too difficult to turn by hand).
If I try turning the lever farther, so that the mark on the lever goes past the mark on the gear case, the clutch does not change. So it's in gear, and the clutch should be "pulled" (disengaged?) but the wheel does not turn. And the wheel does turn fine in neutral.
The gear rack on the inside of the case is pushing the push rod. It has a lot of resistance as you would expect, and springs back normally. So basically, it feels exactly like it should.

I had not touched the lever position on the shaft, or taken out any of the gears on the inside of the bevel gear case. I did not touch the clutch cable other than disconnecting it on the gear case side, from the lever on the case shaft. All I did was remove the bevel gear case, then install it again.
I would really, really appreciate any help with this. Really frustrating because it feels like I did change anything. The clutch worked totally fine before. I don't want to take it to a mechanic. It's mainly frustrating because anytime I ask someone online for help, they tell me to adjust the clutch cable, which is totally irrelevant here.

Finally, if possible, can anyone take a photo of the lever on the shaft with the clutch pulled so I can see how far it goes?
It’s been pouring out here for a couple days so getting pics will be tough but to answer your question the lever rotates about a half inch or so towards the back of the bike when you pull the lever in during normal operation. The manual calls for the lever to be at a 70-80 degree angle with the cable connected. This angle gives you the leverage to rotate the lever when the clutch is pulled in. If the monsoon stops I’ll snap a pic
 

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Pics, first pic is without pulling the hand lever, second pic is fully pulled.

52612


52613
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Pics, first pic is without pulling the hand lever, second pic is fully pulled.
Thank you!
I guess that confirms that it should definitely be pushing the rod far enough to disengage/engage the clutch on my bike.

I did have the bike sitting for about a week and a half (with drained oil) while I was waiting for a part, and it was a bit cold outside. So maybe the plates just stuck. I might try working the clutch and putting it into gear with the bike off the centerstand.
 

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Some heat, load, and shock should free it up if that's what it is.

But, with the clutch not releasing, you'll need to have the bike moving before hitting first gear.

Kawasaki does have the Positive Neutral Finder, so it won't go to second gear below about 10 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well I feel like a real idiot... I decided on a whim to try holding the back brake very suddenly with the bike running in gear (on a centerstand) and clutch pulled. Viola, the wheel stopped spinning with only a very minor RPM dip. Releasing the brake doesn't cause the wheel to move again. It does it very consistently, possibly this was always happening and I never noticed when it was on the ground.
 

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It did work before the stator job, and I never removed the case lever, only disconnected the cable.


That's the issue, nothing happens when the lever starts to get hard to turn.
I had to remove my bevel gear because the gasket was leaking. After the install. I had same issue the clutch lever would not do anything. If I remember correctly I had to remove the
the clutch bracket and spin the splines 90 degrees which would move the rack piece in the middle problem solved. I am recalling* from memory and may not be using the correct terms to identify the issue . When I did the gasket install I used the vn750 factory manual and it explained it very well. Good luck
 
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