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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all - I could probably figure this out via trial and error, but why waste time and effort when all the knowledge is at my fingertips?! :nerd: Anyway, first ride of season yesterday. noticing my clutch doesn't engage until the lever is almost fully released. Works fine, but I'm guessing it should release and engage maybe 1\4 of the way from the bar when releasing. So, seeing the photos below, are there any suggestions ? I'm thinking turn the adjuster on handlebar(lever) all the way in. Unthread the cable down near the frame to lengthen a bit, and fine tune after at the lever adjuster. Does this sound logical, or is it time for a new clutch? You can see the cable is lengthened a bit already midway down frame, I just dont know how much adjustment is left, thought I'd ask rather than spend a sunny day messing with it, and possibly just wasting time. Of course I do learn that way, but I also learn from good teachers who have been there, done that.. lol. Thanks :smiley_th
 

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I had a similar issue a few months back but I would fully release the clutch and it wouldn’t engage. Make sure you check where the cable connects to the clutch itself on the bottom of the bike. I could not get it to adjust properly using the handlebar and mid-span adjusters, I then realized this was misaligned. Look at this pic, this an example of what it should NOT look like, the slot SHOULD be lined up with the rib on the case when the clutch is fully released. If it needs to be re-aligned it’s held on with just one pinch bolt. That gave me the cable play I needed and I haven’t had to touch it since.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I had a similar issue a few months back but I would fully release the clutch and it wouldn’t engage. Make sure you check where the cable connects to the clutch itself on the bottom of the bike. I could not get it to adjust properly using the handlebar and mid-span adjusters, I then realized this was misaligned. Look at this pic, this an example of what it should NOT look like, the slot SHOULD be lined up with the rib on the case when the clutch is fully released. If it needs to be re-aligned it’s held on with just one pinch bolt. That gave me the cable play I needed and I haven’t had to touch it since.
Thanks, mmart! I zoomed in on a pic I took yesterday, after changing oil. It's pretty close to lined up with the mark on case, hopefully you can see the photo. It's a hair off in the opposite direction yours was. Not sure that's an issue since it's so close. Not sure how much more adjustment I have mid-cable, I haven't unthreaded it to extend it yet, so I may have room to adjust, just haven't tried. I am attaching a zoomed in photo, but it's pixelated from zooming in so much. Hopefully you can see it enough. Thought I'd get some wisdom from this forum first before changing anything!
 

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the clutch on the vn750 normally does not start to engage until its about 3/4 released (away) from grip.. normal operation. if you take the clutch cover off (right side of engine) and watch the the amount of clutch travel there is, you will be absolutely astounded. the clutch pressure plate probably moves 3/8ths of an inch from fully released to fully engaged. since the pressure plate actually has to press on the clutch stack in order to create friction, the majority of this movement is wasted
 

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Thanks, mmart! I zoomed in on a pic I took yesterday, after changing oil. It's pretty close to lined up with the mark on case, hopefully you can see the photo. It's a hair off in the opposite direction yours was. Not sure that's an issue since it's so close. Not sure how much more adjustment I have mid-cable, I haven't unthreaded it to extend it yet, so I may have room to adjust, just haven't tried. I am attaching a zoomed in photo, but it's pixelated from zooming in so much. Hopefully you can see it enough. Thought I'd get some wisdom from this forum first before changing anything!
I think if you align the clutch arm, then correct the cable slack, it should cause the clutch to grab sooner.

I've looked at the pics 10 times and I'm still not 100% on that. However, I was injected with a lot of drugs today. :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think if you align the clutch arm, then correct the cable slack, it should cause the clutch to grab sooner.

I've looked at the pics 10 times and I'm still not 100% on that. However, I was injected with a lot of drugs today. :nerd:
Thanks, Spockster! I agree with you both. Just lining up the arm with the mark on case should make some tiny little difference, although maybe not much. However that alone would be taking some of the play out of the cable, or so it appears. I will do this Saturday, along with upping my idle from 800 to 1,100 rpms to keep lights from flickering. Think idles too low. I will keep you all posted. Saturday here in ME it supposed to be in 60's. Will ride for an hour or so, then grab some beers and proceed to have an afternoon bonfire. Today is freaking pouring.... Oh and in case you hadn't heard, Spockster, Drugs are bad Mmmkay? LOL:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the clutch on the vn750 normally does not start to engage until its about 3/4 released (away) from grip.. normal operation. if you take the clutch cover off (right side of engine) and watch the the amount of clutch travel there is, you will be absolutely astounded. the clutch pressure plate probably moves 3/8ths of an inch from fully released to fully engaged. since the pressure plate actually has to press on the clutch stack in order to create friction, the majority of this movement is wasted
Thanks michiganteddybear - I will just adjust the lower linkage arm to where it's supposed to be, and see what happens. I'm not having any issues, so I don't want to worry about something normal. I tend to do that, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey everyone! Hope everyone is doing well! Checking back in on this, after finally having warm weather enough to put some miles on the old girl. My pivot arm is lined up with the mark on case on lower end of clutch cable. It seems it doesn't release fully quite often. I can be sitting at a red light, and the bike is trying to crawl a bit while handle is fully held in. I then gas it just a bit, and it comes right out of it and sits there, fully disengaged. My "Fine tuning" adjuster has plenty of play to back out(I assume same as pulling clutch in a tad further) but not quite sure if I should yet. My mid cable has plenty of play too, but I feel it's in the fine tuning. Sometimes, seemingly only when in 5th gear, possibly 4th, if I hammer throttle, clutch will slip, and motor revs up, and when I let off throttle, it will grab and get up and go. The handle literally release like 7\8 of the way out, making my hand a bit tired in the damn Maine tourist traffic. Bike otherwise runs fabulous with new AGM battery, and following Spocksters hot start method of using choke. If it's hot, I choke for a revolution or two of the engine, with my hand on choke. If it doesn't immediately fire up, I continue to hold starter and shut off choke, and it fires right up to an idle. Maybe 3 seconds of starter time in total. I'm wondering if I should just unthread fine tune adjuster to see if it will fully disengage when lever is pulled in. Thoughts, comments? Bike barely has 26,000 miles, and what I believe to be original clutch. I would think if it needed replacement, I'd have no more adjustment anywhere, cable, or handlebar...
 

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Have you read the clutch adjustment section in the manual? I ask because I’ve had issues with this myself. The manual says to fully “turn in” the mid-span adjuster to loosen the pressure on the clutch arm. Then try to turn the clutch arm by hand and where it starts to resist being turned is the point it’s disengaging the clutch. If it’s not lined up with the rib at that point they tell you to pull off the clutch lever and readjust it so it lines up with the rib at the same point where it starts to disengage. They also say to let out the clutch handle adjuster so you have 5-6mm to work with before turning in the mid-span. I still feel like when I’m in higher gears that there’s a delay in accelerating. So I’m curious as to how you make out. I’ve read and done the procedure enough times to think I got it right and wondering if I need new clutch plates or a new cable.
 

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Definitely check the setup by the manual.

When you get to fine adjustment at the hand lever, make those adjustments by small amounts. 1/8 -1/16 of a turn. It's a fine line between dragging at a stop and slipping under power.

Your engagement point does sound like the clutch could be getting thin. Been a while, but I think mine grabs about halfway, but I'd have to check that.

Be sure you're using the right oil for the wet clutch, it will slip with the wrong oil.

If things are getting sticky, seafoam just before an oil change can help. I ran it 200 miles.

When I last adjusted mine, I set it where it just did stop dragging at a stop, took about three very small turns at the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you read the clutch adjustment section in the manual? I ask because I’ve had issues with this myself. The manual says to fully “turn in” the mid-span adjuster to loosen the pressure on the clutch arm. Then try to turn the clutch arm by hand and where it starts to resist being turned is the point it’s disengaging the clutch. If it’s not lined up with the rib at that point they tell you to pull off the clutch lever and readjust it so it lines up with the rib at the same point where it starts to disengage. They also say to let out the clutch handle adjuster so you have 5-6mm to work with before turning in the mid-span. I still feel like when I’m in higher gears that there’s a delay in accelerating. So I’m curious as to how you make out. I’ve read and done the procedure enough times to think I got it right and wondering if I need new clutch plates or a new cable.
Yes, I have read and printed out the procedure. I did exactly what you say. I adjusted the clutch lever adjuster approx 1/4" (5-6mm) and the opening on the lower actuating arm is lined up with the line on the case. I applied pressure when lining up the clutch arm, so it's tight when I grab lever to disengage on the bars. I have plenty of fine adjustment left on the bar\lever. I'll try tweaking it out a bit more, but I'm thinking that may disengage it better, but then slip when getting on throttle. I guess that would say it's time for new plates
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Definitely check the setup by the manual.

When you get to fine adjustment at the hand lever, make those adjustments by small amounts. 1/8 -1/16 of a turn. It's a fine line between dragging at a stop and slipping under power.

Your engagement point does sound like the clutch could be getting thin. Been a while, but I think mine grabs about halfway, but I'd have to check that.

Be sure you're using the right oil for the wet clutch, it will slip with the wrong oil.

If things are getting sticky, seafoam just before an oil change can help. I ran it 200 miles.

When I last adjusted mine, I set it where it just did stop dragging at a stop, took about three very small turns at the lever.
I'll just slowly thread out the fine adjuster, Spockster. I think it's just about time for a clutch, based on the miles (26,000). I run SAE 40 in the engine. Have for years without issue. The lever is almost all the way out when I engage, or shift. Plenty of adjustment on lever adjuster, and mid cable adjuster. You would think the adjusters would be maxed out, but maybe I just need a set of plates and a gasket. Don't plan on it this year though. Doesn't slip all the time, and any touch of the throttle, and it stops doing it. Goes good enough to enjoy the rest of the summer, feels like a spring project to me!
 

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I’m close to 25k miles on my bike, I too thought I might be near the limit fit the clutch plates but I have read plenty of folks getting much more out of them. Maybe the springs could be wearing out?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’m close to 25k miles on my bike, I too thought I might be near the limit fit the clutch plates but I have read plenty of folks getting much more out of them. Maybe the springs could be wearing out?
It's possible it could be weak springs I suppose. At some point, when it's not 100 degrees and humid as hell, I'll at least play a bit with adjusters. If I am going to get into the clutch at all, the plates are definitely being changed out too. I'd like to just wait until spring, or possibly this fall, but I don't feel like dealing with it now. It's riding time!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I have turned the fine tuning adjuster on the clutch lever out about 1\3 of a turn. It no longer wants to crawl at a stop. I find that now in higher gears, if I get on the throttle hard, it revs\slips at high RPM. If I just gently roll on the throttle, it won't slip or rev and picks up plenty of speed and power. I think the old girl just needs nice new clutch discs. Seems quite simple. I'm going to enjoy it for the season, since it's kind of a non-issue at this point. It will slowly get worse I'm sure, but I think late fall or spring time, I will install a new clutch kit and gasket. Looks like a fairly straight forward job.
 
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