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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
01 vulcan with 31k miles. I have the tux mod done so I'm thinking thats the culprit to my problem. What I'm experiencing is when I suddenly let the clutch out or let off the throttle, I hear and feel a clunking that I do not remember feeling before. My two immediate thoughts are either a loose clutch basket or a bolt or two loosened on the tux mod plate since that was done around 15k miles ago. Has anyone had something similar happen and am I missing a possible source? I think I'm planning on going stator side first and seeing if anything is loose/loctiting everything down first.
 

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01 vulcan with 31k miles. I have the tux mod done so I'm thinking thats the culprit to my problem. What I'm experiencing is when I suddenly let the clutch out or let off the throttle, I hear and feel a clunking that I do not remember feeling before. My two immediate thoughts are either a loose clutch basket or a bolt or two loosened on the tux mod plate since that was done around 15k miles ago. Has anyone had something similar happen and am I missing a possible source? I think I'm planning on going stator side first and seeing if anything is loose/loctiting everything down first.
Are you hearing it from those areas, or could it be the driveshaft?

Wouldn't think the stator would clunk only at those times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It feels like it's within the motor case but you could be right. I wasn't even able to fully isolate it enough to have it on a single side of the bike so anything possible. I started with the stator side and located everything down only to discover I must have put it back in wrong because now it won't start. I swear I was more careful but I guess I'm redoing it today. Would driver shaft be obvious if I pulled it? I never removed it to lube the splines because I have read if it's problem free at around 15k its probably good (not exact numbers but my memory is hazy on a good day)
 

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It feels like it's within the motor case but you could be right. I wasn't even able to fully isolate it enough to have it on a single side of the bike so anything possible. I started with the stator side and located everything down only to discover I must have put it back in wrong because now it won't start. I swear I was more careful but I guess I'm redoing it today. Would driver shaft be obvious if I pulled it? I never removed it to lube the splines because I have read if it's problem free at around 15k its probably good (not exact numbers but my memory is hazy on a good day)
If the shaft is clunking, you'll be able to see why when you take it apart.

I wouldn't trust that 15k rule. Mine had 14,500 and was dry as a bone, factory never lubed it. It was dry and dusty but not destroying itself yet.

Supposed to lube it each rear tire change, as rule of thumb. Factory mileage interval is close to the lifespan of a rear tire, about 5-6000 miles.
 

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You do not have to pull the driveshaft to lube the splines at the end next to the rear wheel where the shaft's power is turned 90 degrees and those splines are what everyone is most concerned about. If they are not adequately lubricated they will fail. Not a good thing. Hence checked and lubed regularly, I too do it every oil change.

If you put the bike on the center stand and rotate the rear wheel you should be able to determine if the problem is in the shaft system or not. If the transmission is in neutral the engine will not be affected so that may help narrow down the "clunk".
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have lubed it at the rear during oil changes. The shaft may need replacing. Off topic question but what's the correct orientation for the stator when replacing it. I swear I didn't even take all the mounting bolts out at once so I couldn't have put it back wrong but I'm always distracted so anything is possible. When I try to start it, I get signs of fuel igniting but just not at the right time
 

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I have lubed it at the rear during oil changes. The shaft may need replacing. Off topic question but what's the correct orientation for the stator when replacing it. I swear I didn't even take all the mounting bolts out at once so I couldn't have put it back wrong but I'm always distracted so anything is possible. When I try to start it, I get signs of fuel igniting but just not at the right time
Oriented with the harness pointing to feed the wires through the grommet on the case. Not pointing directly at the grommet, but oriented so the length of the harness is correct without kinks or loops.

This bike will backfire with low cranking voltage, and will also pop through the carbs if it's lean when cranking.

Now if the pickup coils are mixed up, reversed, it's going to backfire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oriented with the harness pointing to feed the wires through the grommet on the case. Not pointing directly at the grommet, but oriented so the length of the harness is correct without kinks or loops.

This bike will backfire with low cranking voltage, and will also pop through the carbs if it's lean when cranking.

Now if the pickup coils are mixed up, reversed, it's going to backfire.
Well looks like I have a mystery on my hands then. It looks oriented correctly (and I swear I didn't move it) and I'm also getting spark. This'll be a fun one
 
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