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Discussion Starter #1
So I've noticed that my bike idles high when hot, and one of the things I noticed was that the choke plungers, while can pull out all the way, do not go all the way back in when I push the choke lever forward. I can push them in further with my hand. One of the small pins in the fork also seems a tad bent. Should I adjust or lubricate the choke cable, or is there another repair I should perform?
 

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I would try the cable adjustment, but it may be the cable can't push the bent pin.

This is probably causing those fast idle issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Would replacing the pin require the entire carburetor apart, or is it doable on the bike?

Also, is there a guide on adjusting the choke cable anywhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #5



Ok so.... This is the choke plunger, as I'm sure everyone knows, this is the one (actually, both need to be pushed, but one pushes both down) I have to push in. However, I just noticed, I can push it in more with my hand, and it comes up slowly from the very bottom. It also comes right up when I give the bike some throttle. Is this normal, or what can I be looking at?

I did dismantle my left hand grip when putting new handlebars, so I don't know what I could have messed up. And if you look, you can see the part between the forks has an ever slight bend. So what should be done? Lubricate the springs, loose the cable (but how?) Replace the choke parts?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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not only is your bike into S&M,she's shy as well

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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My apologies....didn't seem to post...let's try this again....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LrBxopihtrQTdIaXptcjNNS1U/view?usp=drivesdk



Won't let me post the pic...can only link...
Pin looks pretty rusty. When you have to push it down, is the lever still touching the pin? If not, there's probably too much resistance in the pin itself (rust).

Which side is that pic from? Vacuum line looks kind of swelled and deformed at the bend. Unless that's all shadows. Is the petcock vac line dry inside?
 

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My apologies....didn't seem to post...let's try this again....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LrBxopihtrQTdIaXptcjNNS1U/view?usp=drivesdk



Won't let me post the pic...can only link...
Yes, looks rusty. As I said, you need to lubricate EVERYTHING . This will either fix it, or eliminate the other possible causes. Use some WD40 or penetrating oil on the plunger, cable lube on the cable, and white lithium grease on the levers.
Make sure the cable slides smoothly. Work the choke a few dozen times and hit it with more oil.
If the choke isn't completely closing, it would simply be richening your mixture, as it's not a "choke" but simply a fuel enrichment device.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I dismantled the left hand grip, let the choke cable simply hang, sprayed the mechanism that pulls it out with WD40, and now it pops back into place as it should & stays. Granted, don't know how it would work with the bike on yet. Is there a special way to give the choke cable more slack? It seems as if the current assembly doesn't give it enough slack to stay closed.
 

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I'm thinking there's an adjuster up by the bars. Haven't looked at my bike in so long ...

Threading the adjuster to make the adjuster shorter, will put more slack in the cable. If you go too far, it won't go full rich when you turn it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm thinking there's an adjuster up by the bars. Haven't looked at my bike in so long ...

Threading the adjuster to make the adjuster shorter, will put more slack in the cable. If you go too far, it won't go full rich when you turn it on.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LrBxopihtrYXVobmlBazN5UDA/view?usp=drivesdk

This seems like the only nut/adjuster on the choke cable of any kind, & it doesn't seem to wanna move in either direction...

I tried putting the handle back together, and it again, forced the choke to stay open. The choke only remains closed if the cable simply hangs loose....
 

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There's a locknut on that adjuster, and the adjustment is all the way in. The only direction it will go right now would make the cable shorter. That's opposite of what you need.

Would have to hold the locknut and turn the adjuster to the left to break it loose. But that won't help you.

If the lever at the pin isn't touching when the choke is turned off, cable adjustment won't help, it would be the bent pin or the rust causing the problem. I don't know if the pin has a spring inside to pull it down or not. Will the other pin snap back to off by itself if if the cable is removed?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There's a locknut on that adjuster, and the adjustment is all the way in. The only direction it will go right now would make the cable shorter. That's opposite of what you need.

Would have to hold the locknut and turn the adjuster to the left to break it loose. But that won't help you.

If the lever at the pin isn't touching when the choke is turned off, cable adjustment won't help, it would be the bent pin or the rust causing the problem. I don't know if the pin has a spring inside to pull it down or not. Will the other pin snap back to off by itself if if the cable is removed?
Both pins/plungers pop back and stay in place as they should with the cable removed. I took it for my first ride today, works fine, just the first start had me holding the mechanism with a screwdriver until sufficient temperature was met.
 
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