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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning to buy a pre-owned 2001 model Vulcan.
Is there any check-list that i could refer too, before i buy the bike..

Thanks !!
Aby
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I am newbie here....request anyone to help me with a list of parameters that i can check for
Leaks
Spark Plugs
Battery...
:doh:
 

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Sorry, Friday night folks are scarce here.

First thing to check is the charging system. A voltmeter/multitester is needed.
Have them take off the seat, check the voltage at the battery. Bike off it should be no less than 12.5 volts. Start the bike, after it warms up some, raise the throttle to 3500-4000 rpms. The voltage at the battery should go up to 13.8 to 14.8 volts. If it stays at 12.5 -12.8 volts... Say no thanks and walk away.

There is a link here somewhere for crap new owners need to know... If I can find it, I will post it for you.
There is this:

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127


KM

Sent from my IPhone.
 

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http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1191
Here`s a check list from the Vulcan verses.

Check the charging system as KM suggests. At one time I would have agreed with him to walk away if the system wasn`t charging.
It used to require an expensive (in your time or shop labor costs) engine pull to replace the stator/alternator.

It doesn`t have to anymore.
There is an inexpensive and relatively simple engine case modification that many owner/riders can do themselves now.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839

If you like the bike other than a poor charging system, tell them it will cost at least $1000 to repair at the shop (that is true), and bargain the price down. If you do the work yourself, the stator can be replaced in less than a day for under $200, using the mod outlined above.

Get any maintenance and repair records the seller has.

Ask if the rear splines between the driveshaft and final drive have been lubed with high moly lube like Honda Moly60.
(They won`t know, but it gives you another bargaining point.) It needs to be done every 10K miles.
Many bikes left the factory with no lube on the rear splines. Check them asap.

Do it yourself when the rear tire is changed, or do it now if there is a new tire already on the bike.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17274

Check the age of the tires:
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839

If the bike still has a conventional wet cell battery with 6 caps on top, it should have an overflow hose going down near the ground.
Check the frame under the battery for any acid spillage,damage/corrosion.
If there is any significant corrosion here, I would walk away from it.

If it looks good, you will still want to change the battery out for a MF-AGM battery sooner rather than later. Another $60-80
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Deka-ETX15L-Powersports-AGM-Battery-100-NEW-/270282472155?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item3eee173adb

You will want to change out to NGK DPR7EIX-9 Iridium spark plugs too, after experienceing a few hard stars, cold and hot. 4 plugs @ $7-10 each

This may seem a bit overwhelming, or like the bike has a lot of problems. It doesn`t have anymore problems or weaknesses than any other 10 YO motorcycle.
When you take it for the first ride you will fall in love with this powerful midsized cruiser. Good luck with the hunt for a scoot.:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the inputs..that was really helpful..
did go check-out motorcycle today...
1) Owner has no info on the Strobe..lobe..Drive Shaft
2) Battery seems ok..the Bike started fine with a single press of button(i was told it was being stated after 2 weeks)
3)After start, had to leave the bike running for 5 mins..to warm up...and the indicator..showed charged after 5 mins..
4)I tried riding it, (1st and 2nd gear) seemed good. had the power intact

but here is what that is making think twice and need expert advice
1)during the ride, i observed, extra bursts coming from the exhaust
2) History of bike..is it was standing unused for quiet some time..the current user has got all the carbs cleaned of the rust and junk fuel..has been using it regularly since then and has not seen problem. Also during the same service..electric problems were solved..(not sure wat were the exact electric problems)
3) I observed rust in couple of places..like on the front Disk braked(in patches) also on some nuts and bolts on the engine...

Do you think i can still go ahead?
by the way...this bike would cost me a 2500$... notin less

Now i am confused and need help :( :lockd:
 

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rust on front disk is normal as it is bare metal and he was prob not lying about not riding in a couple weeks. these bikes backfire a good bit without marbling or coastering and is pretty common.
 

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Benjammin'
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Rusty bolts and other chrome items is also common with these bikes. One other thing I would do (if you make the purchase) is to run a pretty good amount of gas treatment called Seafoam, available at most all auto parts stores, through the fuel system. That will help remove gunk as well.

Good luck!
 

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For 2500 you can get a better bike.
Well, maybe 3500 and you will get something a lot nicer.
 

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Thank you for the inputs..that was really helpful..
did go check-out motorcycle today...
1) Owner has no info on the Strobe..lobe..Drive Shaft
2) Battery seems ok..the Bike started fine with a single press of button(i was told it was being stated after 2 weeks)
3)After start, had to leave the bike running for 5 mins..to warm up...and the indicator..showed charged after 5 mins..
4)I tried riding it, (1st and 2nd gear) seemed good. had the power intact

but here is what that is making think twice and need expert advice
1)during the ride, i observed, extra bursts coming from the exhaust
2) History of bike..is it was standing unused for quiet some time..the current user has got all the carbs cleaned of the rust and junk fuel..has been using it regularly since then and has not seen problem. Also during the same service..electric problems were solved..(not sure wat were the exact electric problems)
3) I observed rust in couple of places..like on the front Disk braked(in patches) also on some nuts and bolts on the engine...

Do you think i can still go ahead?
by the way...this bike would cost me a 2500$... notin less

Now i am confused and need help :( :lockd:

Hard one for me to call here given I can't see the bike. Not sure what you meant by "and the indicator..showed charged after 5 mins.."
Do you mean the bike has a voltmeter on it? The bike does not come with one.

If by "Extra Bursts" you mean a "popping sound" when the bike is de-accellerating...this is normal. Back fires..that sound like single gunshots...are not and indicate a carb problem. ( the bike can backfire durring starting but should not when riding)

The price seems fair. (going by current market pricing) If the paint is good and there is no notable damage...I would say if you like the bike go for it. Sounds to me like the owner spend some time and money getting the bike running. If it indeed start up right off after sitting two weeks, he did a good job on it.

I would ask what the electical problems were.

KM
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone..good to know that rust is not a big issue..

@KM..yes it is a popping sound that i heard during de-accellerating...by charging i meant the heat indicator (C...H).

On the electrical problems he had mentioned that the, none of the indicators or any electrical components was working. It seems the mechanic took almost a month to get all the problems sorted out.

Also this bike was got from a Lien Sale through a mechanic..But now it has valid registration ... This gives me an indication that some major re-work could have been done on this...and i almost want to back off for this reason...

Apart from this everything else looks ok i guess
 

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The popping on deceleration could be, in part, due to a bad "coasting richener diaphragm", I believe is the name. It's a diaphragm on the outside of each carb (air cut off valve) that can be easily replaced without even taking the carbs off. Mine were bad when I pulled my carbs.
 
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