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Discussion Starter #1
I'll start from the beginning my stator and r/r went out so I replaced both.Then after the swap the volt's stayed at 13.v idle and 13.6v to 14.v at 3k rpm.the stator wire that goes to the headlight is geting hot to the touch is this normal on our bike's?

then I found out my battery is shot now so today i bought new mf battery thinking that is my problem but it wasn't it's doing same thing 13.5 idle thing that is got me thinking that its something bad is when i rev the motor the volts dont go up.I'm at a lose I need help loosing my mind with this bike after all this work it's no better.
 

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13v at idle is good.

Think I would do the Blue Wire mod (headlight relay bypass) and see how the one stator wire does, and monitor charge voltages. The headlight relay may be starting to malfunction/short.

The Two-Wire mod is also beneficial. (another junction box bypass)

What type of R/R did you use? OEM, MOSFET, etc.

Have you had it out for some rides after the new battery? And do you have a dash voltmeter? Just thinking the peak charge may rise after the battery is fully charged.
 

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I don't see the problem.

Stator is charging.
 

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yeah stock rr used to put out up to 14.5 at full engine speed but now my mosfet maxes at 14.1, usually sits at 13.8

13.5 is good but a hot wire near the junction box isn't any good and suggests that there's something shorting or over resistive in the junction box (common problem)

you can bypass a lot of the bad things like spockster suggested but it's easier if we know what kind of rr you have
 

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Discussion Starter #5
13v at idle is good.

Think I would do the Blue Wire mod (headlight relay bypass) and see how the one stator wire does, and monitor charge voltages. The headlight relay may be starting to malfunction/short.

The Two-Wire mod is also beneficial. (another junction box bypass)

What type of R/R did you use? OEM, MOSFET, etc.

ricks R/R

Have you had it out for some rides after the new battery? And do you have a dash voltmeter? Just thinking the peak charge may rise after the battery is fully charged.
yes I have a dash volt meter.no I didn't ride the bike due to the stator wire to the headlight geting hot after the the the connection on the r/r side the stator side is not hot.I thought it was due to the battery but I charged it and same thing the wire gets hot.the volt's do not jump with rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the problem is I think there is a problem with my stator wire getting hot and not knowing that was the issue that fried mt R/R and stator and my battery don't wanna have to replace all this **** again and have no faith in this bike.electrosport-stator,rick's R/R,mf battery.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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try changing around the wires and see if it still gets hot.KC gave me that advice before

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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the problem is I think there is a problem with my stator wire getting hot and not knowing that was the issue that fried mt R/R and stator and my battery don't wanna have to replace all this **** again and have no faith in this bike.electrosport-stator,rick's R/R,mf battery.
If you are using bullet connectors on the stator, snip them out solder the leads. My stator is fused on all 3 leads and thankfully i popped a fuse rather than create a bigger issue from resistance. One of the bullet connectors LOOKED fine, but would produce erratic readings when you moved the wiring around. The fuse it blew was on a different stator lead than where the actual resistance was in the connector. The resistance in one lead caused the other lead to overheat/overload and pop a 20a fuse as the other two leads struggled to cover the failing lead.
 
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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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yes KC suggested that as well

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 

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yes I have a dash volt meter.no I didn't ride the bike due to the stator wire to the headlight geting hot after the the the connection on the r/r side the stator side is not hot.I thought it was due to the battery but I charged it and same thing the wire gets hot.the volt's do not jump with rpm.

I would try the Blue Wire mod and see if that same lead gets hot (mark the wire before the mod).

If the stator lead still gets hot, there's another problem.

If the stator lead doesn't get hot, you'll know the headlight relay was the problem.

I strongly advocate bypassing all three relays in the Junction Box.
Headlight - Blue Wire mod
Start - Two Wire mod
Fan - aftermarket relay

The Blue Wire is really simple once you know what to do. You are simply moving one wire to an empty hole on the JB plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok I'll do those mods I did the headlight one but had no headlight and the shorter stator wire that goes to headlight still got hot so I switched it back.when I tested the new stator I got .2 ohm between all 3 if Im right thats low for electrosport stator?that wouldn't have anything to do with the wire getting hot due to the wire's on the stator side of the bullet connector are not warm.
 

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ok I'll do those mods I did the headlight one but had no headlight and the shorter stator wire that goes to headlight still got hot so I switched it back.when I tested the new stator I got .2 ohm between all 3 if Im right thats low for electrosport stator?that wouldn't have anything to do with the wire getting hot due to the wire's on the stator side of the bullet connector are not warm.
Does your .2 ohm compensate for your test probe resistance? That's about the resistance of a good meter and decent probes so that would be dead short. I'm assuming you compensated for that so moving on assuming the stator is good those connectors are becoming more suspect for resistance.
 

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He's reading between each leg of the stator, so there should be a resistance reading, I think .6 ohms might be the spec, not sure.

After re-reading again ... It looks like the r/r could be shorting, might help to ohm it out and see.

Something amiss with the headlight not working on the blue wire mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no thats what it read Im going back tomorrow to retest and the .2 ohm was stator wire to each other not to ground
 
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