[InsuredDisaster]

I am having charging problems. Basically the battery won't charge. The reading at the terminals of the battery with the engine running is no higher than 12.5 or so running even past 5,000 rpm's. The old regulator was all crusted in acid junk, and the connector was eaten away. I put a new one in, and the battery is still not charging. I checked out this page
http://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf

and started going down the list. After deciding that I had 4 or fewer different colors of wires coming from the regulator, I tried the next step. I'm guessing that the white wire is the out put wire of the regulator. I checked that and found that the reading was something like 0.25 V. I also checked the next step and found the black/yellow wire was also really high, higher than the white wire. My plan is to just run a jumper wire for the black/yellow wire and see if that helps. What should I do about the white wire? It runs off to the junction box, and the ignition switch.

Is this diagram worth it's salt? I'd really appreciate any help, as this electrical problem is driving me nuts.

-Ben

 

[jm1515]

I am having charging problems. Basically the battery won't charge. The reading at the terminals of the battery with the engine running is no higher than 12.5 or so running even past 5,000 rpm's. The old regulator was all crusted in acid junk, and the connector was eaten away. I put a new one in, and the battery is still not charging. I checked out this page
http://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf

and started going down the list. After deciding that I had 4 or fewer different colors of wires coming from the regulator, I tried the next step. I'm guessing that the white wire is the out put wire of the regulator. I checked that and found that the reading was something like 0.25 V. I also checked the next step and found the black/yellow wire was also really high, higher than the white wire. My plan is to just run a jumper wire for the black/yellow wire and see if that helps. What should I do about the white wire? It runs off to the junction box, and the ignition switch.

Is this diagram worth it's salt? I'd really appreciate any help, as this electrical problem is driving me nuts.

-Ben

Ben...it's not good that your RR was encrusted in 'acid junk'. Hopefully after you clean the mess and install a MF battery, your RR will still be good. That Electrosport fault finding diagram is ok, but generic, and some of the values may not absolutely correspond. I'm sure there is something simpler, either here or on Yahoo about checking the RR...maybe someone will come along with some info...
ITMT....on page 3 of this forum, I posted a short synopsis of how to check your stator and battery. It's in the 'Charging woes' thread by Madvulc. You can eliminate/confirm stator probs by doing these tests...with a known, good battery.

 

[InsuredDisaster]

Ok guys, I printed off the chart for the Electrosport website on
testing your charging system.

My charing system will not output more than 12.7 volts at the
terminals at 5,000 RPM's. I went to the next step and checked the
voltage between the white regulator wire and the positive battery
terminal. It was over .2 volts so I cleaned off the contacts that I
could easily get to really well. Now its 0.13 or so.

Next step. Checked voltage from Black/yellow wire on regulator to
negative terminal on battery. Exceeded 0.2V by a long shot, so I
tore out that wire, and put a new one in. Cleaned up the frame
ground and battery terminal area really well. Checked again and its
0.08V.

Next step. (B page) Checked the brown wire to battery +. Lower than
0.2V

Next step Stopped the engine and checked the yellow stator wires.
Meter readings .4-.5, .4-.5, .3. Now heres a question. Clymer's says
that the readings should be between .34 and.52 where as the
Electrosport says readings shouldn't be lower than .5 or higher than
2 ohms. Which should I go off of? Either way, I went further.

Next step. Checked yellow wires to ground. OL for all readings

Next step. Started engine up, switched to AC and took readings. All
were less than 20 VAC.

The million dollar question is: IS MY STATOR BAD?

I'd appreciate any input on this issue. But I think that this is my
problem.

Thanks,
Ben

P.S. Oh, I already installed a westco sealed battery.

 

[jm1515]

If you're sure about those stator readings, esp the short to (a good) ground being OL...they sound OK. Clymer's for the stator, bc the stator is still OE, right? AC voltage at idle should be anywhere from 15~20vac, I think.
But...seeing as how you put in a new RR, IIUC from your OP, and have cleaned connections and checked for shorts/discontinuity, try
one more stator AC test....connect the meter, start the engine and gradually run it up to 5k rpm or so. Your AC readings should be the same or very close on all three legs, and you should be seeing somewhere between 50~60+vac at 5k rpm.
If you get this result...well, I don't think it's the stator.
I'm doing this from memory, but IIRC there is a bullet-connector white/red charge wire under the right cover that goes to the + battery terminal. Make sure this is connected and clean....

The higher rpm AC test will more or less confirm the status of your stator, given all the other, positive readings.

 

[InsuredDisaster]

I'm sorry I left that out. The readings were at 5,000 RPM's. I think the result means my stator is messed up.

I just heard of this bullet connection earlier today. I don't think it would affect the VAC test, I'll clean it up really well when I swap stators. I appreciat the the help.

 

[BillyDoc]

If the "bullet connection" is to supply the field to your rotor (which is the other part of your alternator) then it most definitely will effect the outcome of your tests. I would check before swapping, and maybe save some money and time.

Bill

 

[InsuredDisaster]

Ok, so I should go out and check it? Clean up the positive connection?

 

[jm1515]

I'm sorry I left that out. The readings were at 5,000 RPM's. I think the result means my stator is messed up.

I just heard of this bullet connection earlier today. I don't think it would affect the VAC test, I'll clean it up really well when I swap stators. I appreciat the the help.

Yep...your stator should be putting out around 50~60vac at that rpm.
Anything much less and the RR will not be getting the juice it needs to send out a clean 14~14.5vdc, thus charge your battery. 20vac is not going to do it....
Not really sure why/how the stator is not generating enough AC, given your resistance/continuity tests, but it could be a rotor or a a connction inside the stator housing....
I would re-do the tests just be abso certain, and maybe consult a Kawasaki tech (I hate that word) to see if they might have any insight.

The charge lead with the bullet will not affect any direct stator tests, as you surmise...but I'd check it anyway. Just trace the + lead back from battery and make sure you got a clean, tight connection.
Then I'd peruse 'Stator Replacement notes' above...

 

[InsuredDisaster]

Well, I called the dealer and they agreed with me, but frankly, I don't think they are very good. I'm putting in a new stator and seeing if that will solve my problem. I rode the bike over to a friends garage today and 7 hours later, I got the old stator out. I'll get the new stator hopefully tuesday and with any luck, I might have the bike back together by thursday. I'm a little nervous about seeing if I can put the bike together again, though I was careful to return all the screws that I could so I wouldn't loose them and I labled all the hoses and wires I disconnected. I have to say it was a real bastard to get the engine out. I hope this fixes my problem. If not, I'll start looking for more solutions.

As for the bullet connection, I'll be cleaning it up real well.

Whoever had the bike before me was a real crappy mechanic. Screws were missing all over and I think I found a hose that wasn't connected to anything. I'll see if I can find the other end and ask you guys where you think it goes to.

Thanks for all your help. If I run into any problems while reassembling the bike, I'll definately be asking you guys for assistance.

-Ben

 

[InsuredDisaster]

Well, so far its going fairly well. I spent about 7 hours getting the old stator out, and so far I've spent about 6.5 hours putting the bike together again. Getting the front bevel gear case back in took me over an hour I think. I managed to move the engine in and out single handedly in less time than it took me to get the bevel gear assemebly in. In the end, I took off the back tire and final drive unit. The front bevel gear assembly slid right in then. I figured I could drain the final drive oil, and lube up the splines. I think I've still got about 5 hours to go. I'm pretty slow.

QUESTION: Is white lithium grease the same as the "moly grease?"

 

[jm1515]

QUESTION: Is white lithium grease the same as the "moly grease?"

NO!
I bought this 65% paste from Enco....

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMIP&PMPXNO=947485&PMAKA=505-1197

Enuf to last you for a while....

 

[Loran in Npvl IL]

QUESTION: Is white lithium grease the same as the "moly grease?"

NO. All of the moly grease I have seen have been dark colored. If you have crytox (sp?) it might be a different collor.

At anyrate, do NOT use the white lithium grease on the rear splines (ok to use on front ones by the u-joint )

 

[InsuredDisaster]

I got some moly grease and used that. I appreciate all the help. Now I just have to figure out how to fix a coolant leak, and more to the topic at hand, why my voltage is now reading 16.73 Volts at 5,000 rpms.