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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all! I'm new here, and in mid-September I bought a 2002 VN750 with 6300 miles on it. Vance and Haines exhaust is the only mod. I'm the third owner. I bought the bike from a pastor (a friend of an acquaintance who I can reasonably trust), and this is what I know about the bike's history:

It sat for more than a year unridden by the pastor, as he moved his parish back to NYC from upstate and didn't have time or a good place to ride the motorcycle (as reported by the previous owner). He reported no issues with the bike, other than that it would need to be brought up to speed with a servicing. It test drove fine, apart from a slow idle RPM, which I attributed to old gas. I haven't seen an issue with the idle since the day I purchased the bike.

I've had hot and cold starting issues over the last two months and I have barely ridden it due to fear I'll be stranded without being able to start it. Trying to keep this concise, I'll list what I've done:
  1. New battery: Yuasa YUAM62H4A YTX14AH-BS Battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NQSZNU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details)
  2. Oil change: Motor 1 synthetic motorcycle motor oil 4T racing / KN303 oil filter
  3. Changed brake fluid: DOT 4 brake fluid
  4. New air filters: KN air filters
Initially, when this began, it wasn't clear that the problem with the bike was electrical. However, replacing the battery seemed to breath new life into it. Idled right at 1100, started fairly reliably (sometimes I need to give it throttle to cold start it). One day, after riding about 20 minutes and accidentally hitting the engine cut-off switch while waiting in traffic, I couldn't restart the bike without choking it despite the engine being fully warm. I have been fully charging the bike with a 1amp AGM trickle charger, and that's when the bike starts the easiest. At a full charge, the battery sits at 12.91v DC.

After a 10 mile ride to work in traffic recently, which took about an hour (with a few miles going 40-50mph and the rest lane splitting traffic at 10-15mph), the voltage across the battery the morning after was 12.81v. I have been wildly concerned this was a stator failure, however, when I disconnect the stator leads and check the resistance to the battery ground, I get OL on all three leads (red lead to the stator output, black lead to the ground). Not seeing a short there. I'll list more findings.

With the battery fully charged, Vdc at the battery terminals:
1. At idle: ~13.1-13.2v DC
2. At 2000rpm: 13.9v DC
3. At 4000rpm: 13.55v DC (????)

With the bike running, Vac across the stator output leads (disconnected from the wiring harness) [A1-A2, A1-A3] were ~35V and 40V at 2000rpm. I think I've read that these values should be between 20-50v, but I've also read these values should be between 50-70v. Not sure what the right value is.

Testing the R/R resistance across the 6 terminals, I got 0.6 ohms for almost every value that was supposed to be 0.34-0.52 ohms. I have this written down at work, where I'm doing this testing (I'm a firefighter so I'm doing this at the firehouse... no garage here in NYC). One of those values was 0.8 ohms, but without that paper, I don't remember exactly which one it was. I'll come back and update this the next time I'm at work, either tomorrow or the next day.

Furthermore, this morning when I went to continue to work on this, the battery was 12.17v DC. The bike started eventually, but not before back-firing, and idled at like 700-800rpm. I had to hold the throttle to keep it from stalling. Two days ago, it was 12.9. I haven't ridden the bike, and I'm confidence no one touched it while I was away from the firehouse. This is the first time I'm seeing ANY indication of parasitic loss. I left the key in the bike during those three days, in the off position. This may be aberrant, and I'll check the bike again in two days.

My plan moving forward is to connect the new chinese R/R to the bike without mounting it and see if there is any change in any of the values. What I'm hoping is that someone has seen something like this before and can point me in the right direction after that. I don't know how to check the fuse box to see if anything is drawing power while the bike is off, so if anyone has a resource they could point me to for that, that would be great. I have all the tools and parts I would need for the tuxedo mod (except if I needed to go that direction, I'm ordering the stator from ricks electrical motorsport website instead of using the chinese one I bought), but I'm REALLY hoping I don't have to try to attempt that.

Any suggestions for what more information I could provide here would be great. Initially, I was confident this was a stator issue, but now I really have no idea WHAT's going on. I'm definitely not taking a hole saw to the engine case if I don't need to!

Thanks in advance for any advice or help!
 

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All your numbers look fine except the 12.17v on the battery. I'd guess it's a parasitic draw or the battery itself is failing.

Easiest way to test the draw is a test light. Pull the negative off the battery. Put the test light between the post and the ground wire. If the light illuminates, you have a draw. Use the fuse pull method to find the draw; when the light goes out, you found the draw.

My bike often needs the choke to start after a brief stop.

Backfires can be caused by low cranking voltage on this bike. Is your battery a wet cell or AGM type?
 

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The voltage you show at idle up to 4000 is good enough to rule out the stator I think. Anything above 13.5 volts is what most of us hope for. Changing out the regulator may or may not help much. I am not sure your problem is electrical in nature but would suggest you check and clean every connection in the wiring you can find. From under the seat to the headlight. Many guys have had good luck fixing minor issues that can come from corrosion that develops in the connections. 12.9 volts in a battery overnight is good and 12.7 one time wouldn't keep me up at night. Do the check Spockster says. You got a good brand battery but I hate mail order. I use the choke every time when cold.

One thing I would do is add a couple of ounces of Seafoam to the tank. Sitting for a long period of time can result in your carbs getting gummed up. If it is running as good as it sounds you may be able to avoid pulling the carbs and cleaning them. Check to see if the plugs are still in the carburetors air mixture screws or if you can get to them. You may need to gently screw them in, count the turns, until they bottom out. Then return them to where they were. You can fine tune your idle using those screws. Just go slow and take your time. A little bit of a turn is all to be used at a time and you will need to wait a few minutes to see/hear how the adjustment affects the idle. Also in or out, each bike is different and it takes what it takes. Unfortunately there is no universal magic setting. Just keep track of the turns so you can always go back to where it was. Most guys will go 2 up to 2 1/2 turns out to start but it is different for everyone and each bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Sprock and thank you Green!

I know I didn't really offer up a specific situation where I could pin point an exact problem that needs correcting, its just a general lack-of-confidence with being able to start the bike away from home. When I initially pulled the stator leads and reconnected them, the bike turned over immediately the next time I started it, and that definitely points to the idea that reseating some connections helps. I'm going to try the fuse pull when I get back to the firehouse, we have a test light.

I haven't tried seafoam yet, but its on the list of things to do. If that doesn't help, I'll look more deeply into cleaning the pilot jet, and the needle adjustment, so thanks for the explanation on that green!

Although green, you stay 13.55v at 4000 is sufficient, I was just concerned because the service manual says it should be between 14-15. If the community has figured out that anything above 13.5 is good enough, than that's good enough for me.

These responses were really helpful, I know my write up was way longer than I meant it to be.

Thank you very much, once again!
 

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Disconnect the battery and check the output at the leads going to it you will see better what the stator is doing. In order to check the circuits as Spockster suggested, pull the side cover off (on the side by the oil fill cap) then pop the cover off the junction box. You will see the fuses and hopefully the back of the cover will still have the sticker explaining which fuse does what. A parasitic draw can be a pain.

If your battery is fully charged the output from the stator will drop off as its power is only being used to run the engine and headlight. One of the problems of a failing battery is that sometimes they will take a “surface charge” really fast but not hold any real cramping amps. You indicated that your stator output was nearly 14 volts at one point as you were checking. The purpose of the regulator is to dump unused output from the stator if it is not needed. Since you indicated you were replacing the regulator and battery I think you may get higher readings from the stator at times. The reason I am not sure that replacement of the regulator with another one will help is that it seems nowadays those components are a crap shoot. It may work great or may be bad right out of the box. A Mosfet replacement is a highly recommended as switching to a AGM battery for these bikes.

I still feel that over 13 volts is good enough to keep stator replacement off the table for now. There are some things that you can do that do not cost anything and can be reversed if you want. Doing a couple of the mods like the 2 wire mod and the blue wire mod will help with electric power and starting.

You may also benefit from checking and setting the gap on the pickup coils. (If you go slow you should not even need to replace the cover’s gasket.) Setting the gap and marbling helped both of our bikes with the hard starting and backfire when starting issue.

I set the gap and marbled my son’s bike when he was at work and he was really happy with how it helped starting when hot. I didn’t tell him what I did for a while because he is one of the kind of people who isn’t convinced modifying things from the way they came from the factory is a good idea. Eventually though his bike evolved into its present, ear shaved, blue wire mod, 2 wire mod, coasters, MCCT, Mosfet and amp gauge added state. Each change has always resulted in his being very happy with the way it starts, runs and performs.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Green! A few questions... this is getting beyond what I've learned to do so far, and once again... I deeply appreciate your time in writing everything out!
(Dunno how to quote on this forum, so I'll just copy and paste)

"Disconnect the battery and check the output at the leads going to it you will see better what the stator is doing."
  • Bike Running?
  • Both the ground and the positive lead on the battery?
  • I'm assuming I'm going to have to check the output of the stator with it connected to the harness, if the bike is running, obvi it will stall if the battery is also disconnected... correct? (this seems obvious, but I'm a novice here)
  • Also, I'm assuming I'm checking Vac at the stator output?
Concerning my battery, its a brand new Yuasa AGM battery that I bought at the recommendation of another post on this forum. The electrolyte went in without issue. I would be SUPER surprised if it was the culprit. I do understand surface charge, and generally, I've let it dissipate over 3-5 minutes between doing these tests.

I will go ahead and get a mosfet R/R. Can you point me to the one you used? Also, the two wire mod was 100% going to be the next thing I was going to do. The blue wire mod seemed less intuitive... if I'm bypassing the circuitry for the headlight, and it's being powered when the bike is off, doesn't that take away from available amps to crank the starter?

I bought NGK iridium spark plugs, although I haven't installed them. The bike does have NGK spark plugs in it, but I'm not sure what model. I'll go ahead and replace those too. I don't have a gap tool, so I don't know how healthy those are, and I haven't focused on researching that yet, so they could be perfect or shot and I would have no idea. But new has got to be better than old and used!

I'm again grateful that I get to benefit from a father's passion for his son's bike. You live up to your forum signature, undoubtedly.
 

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Putting electrolyte in, doesn't sound like an AGM battery, sounds like a wet cell. The AGMs I've had shipped all came complete and ready to go.

AGM is Absorbed Glass Mat, the acid is contained in the mat.

The headlight would reduce cranking voltage with the blue wire mod, but the mod bypasses the troublesome headlight relay and junction box. Clipping the headlight trigger wire while doing the blue wire mod will remove AC voltage from the junction box.

An AGM type battery will give you better voltage than a wet cell. They're worth the extra cost.
 

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Putting electrolyte in, doesn't sound like an AGM battery, sounds like a wet cell. The AGMs I've had shipped all came complete and ready to go.

AGM is Absorbed Glass Mat, the acid is contained in the mat.

The headlight would reduce cranking voltage with the blue wire mod, but the mod bypasses the troublesome headlight relay and junction box. Clipping the headlight trigger wire while doing the blue wire mod will remove AC voltage from the junction box.

An AGM type battery will give you better voltage than a wet cell. They're worth the extra cost.
You can activate an AGM, I’ve had them do it at the dealership,

 

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When I bought the battery and saw him break out the bottle I immediately though “wtf is he doing?” So I googled it as I waited lol.
The wet cells always came with a six pack fused together, like the pics at your link. I had no idea the AGM used liquid acid, was thinking the mat was impregnated at the factory.

Certain process to activate one too, letting the acid soak in, etc.

I guess the acid can't get out of the mat, on a Harley Vrod the battery sits at a steep angle.
 

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I thought it sounded like a "sealed" battery too Spockster. Learn something new all the time. Sweet. Now I can take a nap. Oh well, never mind.

To check the stator at the battery leads I leave the regulator hooked up and the 3 stator (yellow) wires connected like they are supposed to be. Start the bike and when it can idle on its own, disconnect the positive terminal, remove the cable and test the DC volts between the positive cable (coming from the regulator) and a ground. You do not need to disconnect the negative, ground cable but I always check both at a frame ground and on the negative battery ground cable. This bike has a lot of grounds and there is one between the regulator and the battery that can be problematic depending on if it has been messed with. If the stator output is good the bike runs actually off the stator. If it dies and every connection is good the stator is probably toast. (You could also test the alternator on a 60's or 70's car that way. Disconnect the battery and if the alternator is bad it will die. Do not do that with today’s modern vehicles.)

I am reluctant to recommend a brand of Mosfet . My son and I have ones from DB Electric on our bikes and they are less than a year old. Made in Tiawan not China or Japan and it is nit a Shindengen brand. However I was searching for the model FH020AA online and it came up as a interchange part with the same specifications. The cost was about $100.00 delivered with tax. It came with a mega fuse and a weatherproof connection kit. I needed to add my own connections to the stator and I used my own yellow wire instead of the red 10ga wire it came with. So far I am happy with them. If I could have I would have gone with one from Roadstercycle. It is a real Shindengen and I have never heard or read anything negative about Roadstercycle. It is just a little more money, but not much. Some guys have had good luck with used ones off atv's and even snowmobiles but they have to make their own connections.

I have had real good luck with NGK spark plugs if I am buying them for my specific vehicle. Out of the box they have always been pre-gapped correctly. I still check them just in case. If the ones in now are platinum they are probably still good. To set the gap on the pickup coils my driver's license is just about .020 thick. (but I have all kind of feeler gauges) I remember from my old days driving cars with point ignitions that a D.L is usually ..015 - .020 thick and I used to carry extra points and condensers in the glove compartment. That mod really helps with starting and is not hard to do. On my bike I knocked the nub off the case. On my son's bike I used a dremel to grind the hole bigger. The write up in this section (with pictures is really good.

Good luck.
 

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Of all the mods and updates I’ve done to the bike, The pickup coil mod has yielded the most drastic improvement. I did it last spring and we had one really hot summer this year to put it to the test. The bike never missed a beat, it started every single time. Before the mod, I’d ride literally a couple miles in February and the bike wouldn’t start right back up if I cut it off. It’s nice now to not have to worry about scaring the crap out of people at gas stations trying to start after fill-ups! :)
 

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Hi all! I'm new here, and in mid-September I bought a 2002 VN750 with 6300 miles on it. Vance and Haines exhaust is the only mod. I'm the third owner. I bought the bike from a pastor (a friend of an acquaintance who I can reasonably trust), and this is what I know about the bike's history:

It sat for more than a year unridden by the pastor, as he moved his parish back to NYC from upstate and didn't have time or a good place to ride the motorcycle (as reported by the previous owner). He reported no issues with the bike, other than that it would need to be brought up to speed with a servicing. It test drove fine, apart from a slow idle RPM, which I attributed to old gas. I haven't seen an issue with the idle since the day I purchased the bike.

I've had hot and cold starting issues over the last two months and I have barely ridden it due to fear I'll be stranded without being able to start it. Trying to keep this concise, I'll list what I've done:
  1. New battery: Yuasa YUAM62H4A YTX14AH-BS Battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NQSZNU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details)
  2. Oil change: Motor 1 synthetic motorcycle motor oil 4T racing / KN303 oil filter
  3. Changed brake fluid: DOT 4 brake fluid
  4. New air filters: KN air filters
Initially, when this began, it wasn't clear that the problem with the bike was electrical. However, replacing the battery seemed to breath new life into it. Idled right at 1100, started fairly reliably (sometimes I need to give it throttle to cold start it). One day, after riding about 20 minutes and accidentally hitting the engine cut-off switch while waiting in traffic, I couldn't restart the bike without choking it despite the engine being fully warm. I have been fully charging the bike with a 1amp AGM trickle charger, and that's when the bike starts the easiest. At a full charge, the battery sits at 12.91v DC.

After a 10 mile ride to work in traffic recently, which took about an hour (with a few miles going 40-50mph and the rest lane splitting traffic at 10-15mph), the voltage across the battery the morning after was 12.81v. I have been wildly concerned this was a stator failure, however, when I disconnect the stator leads and check the resistance to the battery ground, I get OL on all three leads (red lead to the stator output, black lead to the ground). Not seeing a short there. I'll list more findings.

With the battery fully charged, Vdc at the battery terminals:
1. At idle: ~13.1-13.2v DC
2. At 2000rpm: 13.9v DC
3. At 4000rpm: 13.55v DC (????)

With the bike running, Vac across the stator output leads (disconnected from the wiring harness) [A1-A2, A1-A3] were ~35V and 40V at 2000rpm. I think I've read that these values should be between 20-50v, but I've also read these values should be between 50-70v. Not sure what the right value is.

Testing the R/R resistance across the 6 terminals, I got 0.6 ohms for almost every value that was supposed to be 0.34-0.52 ohms. I have this written down at work, where I'm doing this testing (I'm a firefighter so I'm doing this at the firehouse... no garage here in NYC). One of those values was 0.8 ohms, but without that paper, I don't remember exactly which one it was. I'll come back and update this the next time I'm at work, either tomorrow or the next day.

Furthermore, this morning when I went to continue to work on this, the battery was 12.17v DC. The bike started eventually, but not before back-firing, and idled at like 700-800rpm. I had to hold the throttle to keep it from stalling. Two days ago, it was 12.9. I haven't ridden the bike, and I'm confidence no one touched it while I was away from the firehouse. This is the first time I'm seeing ANY indication of parasitic loss. I left the key in the bike during those three days, in the off position. This may be aberrant, and I'll check the bike again in two days.

My plan moving forward is to connect the new chinese R/R to the bike without mounting it and see if there is any change in any of the values. What I'm hoping is that someone has seen something like this before and can point me in the right direction after that. I don't know how to check the fuse box to see if anything is drawing power while the bike is off, so if anyone has a resource they could point me to for that, that would be great. I have all the tools and parts I would need for the tuxedo mod (except if I needed to go that direction, I'm ordering the stator from ricks electrical motorsport website instead of using the chinese one I bought), but I'm REALLY hoping I don't have to try to attempt that.

Any suggestions for what more information I could provide here would be great. Initially, I was confident this was a stator issue, but now I really have no idea WHAT's going on. I'm definitely not taking a hole saw to the engine case if I don't need to!

Thanks in advance for any advice or help!
You may want to check your carbs, mone sat for two years before I got it. The carbs had jello in them. Cleaned rebuilt them. I to keep mine on a trickle charger as it's like 40 in the morning and go 41 miles to work. Also check the cable on the regulator.
 

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Hi all! I'm new here, and in mid-September I bought a 2002 VN750 with 6300 miles on it. Vance and Haines exhaust is the only mod. I'm the third owner. I bought the bike from a pastor (a friend of an acquaintance who I can reasonably trust), and this is what I know about the bike's history:

It sat for more than a year unridden by the pastor, as he moved his parish back to NYC from upstate and didn't have time or a good place to ride the motorcycle (as reported by the previous owner). He reported no issues with the bike, other than that it would need to be brought up to speed with a servicing. It test drove fine, apart from a slow idle RPM, which I attributed to old gas. I haven't seen an issue with the idle since the day I purchased the bike.

I've had hot and cold starting issues over the last two months and I have barely ridden it due to fear I'll be stranded without being able to start it. Trying to keep this concise, I'll list what I've done:
  1. New battery: Yuasa YUAM62H4A YTX14AH-BS Battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NQSZNU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details)
  2. Oil change: Motor 1 synthetic motorcycle motor oil 4T racing / KN303 oil filter
  3. Changed brake fluid: DOT 4 brake fluid
  4. New air filters: KN air filters
Initially, when this began, it wasn't clear that the problem with the bike was electrical. However, replacing the battery seemed to breath new life into it. Idled right at 1100, started fairly reliably (sometimes I need to give it throttle to cold start it). One day, after riding about 20 minutes and accidentally hitting the engine cut-off switch while waiting in traffic, I couldn't restart the bike without choking it despite the engine being fully warm. I have been fully charging the bike with a 1amp AGM trickle charger, and that's when the bike starts the easiest. At a full charge, the battery sits at 12.91v DC.

After a 10 mile ride to work in traffic recently, which took about an hour (with a few miles going 40-50mph and the rest lane splitting traffic at 10-15mph), the voltage across the battery the morning after was 12.81v. I have been wildly concerned this was a stator failure, however, when I disconnect the stator leads and check the resistance to the battery ground, I get OL on all three leads (red lead to the stator output, black lead to the ground). Not seeing a short there. I'll list more findings.

With the battery fully charged, Vdc at the battery terminals:
1. At idle: ~13.1-13.2v DC
2. At 2000rpm: 13.9v DC
3. At 4000rpm: 13.55v DC (????)

With the bike running, Vac across the stator output leads (disconnected from the wiring harness) [A1-A2, A1-A3] were ~35V and 40V at 2000rpm. I think I've read that these values should be between 20-50v, but I've also read these values should be between 50-70v. Not sure what the right value is.

Testing the R/R resistance across the 6 terminals, I got 0.6 ohms for almost every value that was supposed to be 0.34-0.52 ohms. I have this written down at work, where I'm doing this testing (I'm a firefighter so I'm doing this at the firehouse... no garage here in NYC). One of those values was 0.8 ohms, but without that paper, I don't remember exactly which one it was. I'll come back and update this the next time I'm at work, either tomorrow or the next day.

Furthermore, this morning when I went to continue to work on this, the battery was 12.17v DC. The bike started eventually, but not before back-firing, and idled at like 700-800rpm. I had to hold the throttle to keep it from stalling. Two days ago, it was 12.9. I haven't ridden the bike, and I'm confidence no one touched it while I was away from the firehouse. This is the first time I'm seeing ANY indication of parasitic loss. I left the key in the bike during those three days, in the off position. This may be aberrant, and I'll check the bike again in two days.

My plan moving forward is to connect the new chinese R/R to the bike without mounting it and see if there is any change in any of the values. What I'm hoping is that someone has seen something like this before and can point me in the right direction after that. I don't know how to check the fuse box to see if anything is drawing power while the bike is off, so if anyone has a resource they could point me to for that, that would be great. I have all the tools and parts I would need for the tuxedo mod (except if I needed to go that direction, I'm ordering the stator from ricks electrical motorsport website instead of using the chinese one I bought), but I'm REALLY hoping I don't have to try to attempt that.

Any suggestions for what more information I could provide here would be great. Initially, I was confident this was a stator issue, but now I really have no idea WHAT's going on. I'm definitely not taking a hole saw to the engine case if I don't need to!

Thanks in advance for any advice or help!
I had similar issues with my 2001 VN750 when i bought it the previous owner thought it needed a new stator. I replaced the voltage regulator with a brand new OEM Kawasaki Regulator and have been running problem free until the choke broke the other day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey guys, thanks so much for all the help. Unfortunately, (well fortunately) I was able to return the bike back to the original owner for a refund. Green, I did the battery test by removing the positive lead and the bike cannot run on its own, at any RPM. At that point, this just got beyond what I was capable of diagnosing and fixing. I was really lucky I was able to get my money back.

I know there was a lot of effort put forth here to help me out, and I'm very grateful for everyone's time and knowledge! Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and a wonderful New Year to you all!
 

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Hey guys, thanks so much for all the help. Unfortunately, (well fortunately) I was able to return the bike back to the original owner for a refund. Green, I did the battery test by removing the positive lead and the bike cannot run on its own, at any RPM. At that point, this just got beyond what I was capable of diagnosing and fixing. I was really lucky I was able to get my money back.

I know there was a lot of effort put forth here to help me out, and I'm very grateful for everyone's time and knowledge! Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and a wonderful New Year to you all!
Glad you were able to work it out in your favor. Does sound like it wasn't charging at all.
 

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Unless you really wanted a new hobby, you probably did the best thing possible. By checking it out and getting to return it, everyone involved probably came out ahead. No doubt you saved a lot of time and a not insignificant sum of money. Should you come across another Vulcan you can bet we will still be here. Good luck in the future and I hope you get to ride something in the new year. If you do let us know even if it is not a Vulcan.
 
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