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Wondering if anyone else ran into these issues. I have the whole carb synch set up per instructions, and i cant get the bike to idle unless i turn the idle knob all the way in. The second issue i have is all the gauges on the synchronizer are completely erratic once attached to the bike. I assume its all related but cant seem to pinpoint the exact problem. Cleaned the carbs a month ago, put new plugs in and new battery today. Any ideas/criticism would be appreciated. Thanx :)
 

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1986 VN750
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Wondering if anyone else ran into these issues. I have the whole carb synch set up per instructions, and i cant get the bike to idle unless i turn the idle knob all the way in. The second issue i have is all the gauges on the synchronizer are completely erratic once attached to the bike. I assume its all related but cant seem to pinpoint the exact problem. Cleaned the carbs a month ago, put new plugs in and new battery today. Any ideas/criticism would be appreciated. Thanx :)
What rpm does your bike need to maintain the idle (turning the idle knob)?

Your bike should idle fine even being out of sync. Sync it up, and then try to get it to 1100. If you can't idle at 1100 you have other issues outside of a sync. Carbs could not be seated properly and letting a ton of air in, which would account for the need for throttle for idle (aka turning the idle knob up a lot).

In regards to the gauges, there will be some things included in the kit that go in-line with the vacuum hose. They have little screw things that can close off the vacuum, so the needle is as erratic. My vocabulary is failing me right now, theyre like little valves that go inline to the tester. Tighten it up until the needle stops bouncing.
 

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/\/\ what he said!

The valves that come with the gauges are needed to restrict the vacuum in order to dampen the needles. They will still "bounce", but you can at least tell if the carbs are close enough to sync. The vacuum lines will pulse....it is not not a steady vacuum source from the carbs.
 

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if you suspect your sucking air in past the black boot andclamp that mounts the carb to the intake. simply get some starting fluid and spray around the boot/intake if your bike revs up your sucking air.look for a crackin the boot that may have developed when you reinstalled the carbs.piece of cake,minimal labor and cost to dismiss and diagnose.
 
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