Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

21 - 40 of 59 Posts

·
Vulcan Bobber
Joined
·
82 Posts
Please HELP me I don't know how reconnect the carb, 5 hoses come from the carb, 3 fittings from the fuel tank and 1 fitting close to the battery, but I don't have any idea how plug these hose,please check the pictures here to get some idea how's my bike, If somebody can help me< I will be eternally grateful.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Let's start with your third pic: the center thing is your fuel float level (and gauge) - don't worry about that. That's not hooked up to your carbs at all. The three arrows on the lower item are pointing to the petcock - the left and right leads are your fuel lines. You should have 1/4" ID hose, one from each lead to the fuel connector on the carb itself. The center port is the vacuum line from the petcock to your front carb - 3/16" ID hose from that center line to the brass nipple on the front carb. (That's three hoses...) On the rear carb, you also have a vacuum line - goes from the brass nipple back to the exhaust cannister that sits right behind your gas tank/in front of the battery (that's four). And then you should have a t-fitting between both carbs for the vent hose - 1/4" hose from each carb to the fiiting (five and five and a half), and then there's a vent hose that goes out to your right air box (the vent hose is really #5 - think of the ones going into the t-fitting as feeder hoses).

Does that help at all?
 

·
and the Adventure Cycle
Joined
·
6,141 Posts
It definately helped me out. I've got the same problem.

Thanks,
Robert(Ponhos)
Hey Robert, welcome to the forum. Nice to see yet another Vulcaneer from PA. :smiley_th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
You can replace the Main jets, with the carbs on the bike. I just did it last week. The tough part was getting the fuel bowl covers off. I didn't have a screw driver that would fit under the carbs so I used a set of needle nose pliers on the the 4 phillips head screws(2 for each carb) and when it came time to install the covers, I replaced them with M4 x 14 socket head cap screws.

I used a small mirror and flashlight to verify the location of the jets. For the main jets use a standard short 8mm 1/4" drive socket and ratchet then take out the main jet holder(kawasaki's name for it). The jet is then easy to remove from the jet holder and replace.

Check the air bleeds in the jet holder to make sure their open and clean.

Just reassemble in reverse order. I started the jet holder with my fingers to make sure I didn't cross thread it.
It sure was easier to tighten the cap screws with an allen wrench instead of using pliers.

It's easier to work on the front carb if you remove the ACCT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hi Cindy,

I'm a new member of VN750, having bought a neglected '85 VN700 a few weeks ago. I bought the bike as a near-basket case that would barely run. I traced the problem down to the carbs (spark & compression was fine), and discovered that the fuel lines were set-up incorrectly - the lines from the petcocks ran directly to the vacuum lines! (primitive direct injection? LOL!). Anyway, using the excellent labelled pictures you've provided the forum, I was able to reorganize the fuel & carb vent lines to their correct locations/destinations... the bike now starts & runs fairly well... I just don't know what to do with the vacuum fittings on each carb.... any suggestions on how to rout them and to where?)... any help from you or any other forum members would be greatly appreciated!

Best Regards to All,

Rob (SpockRob)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Hi Cindy,

I'm a new member of VN750, having bought a neglected '85 VN700 a few weeks ago. I bought the bike as a near-basket case that would barely run. I traced the problem down to the carbs (spark & compression was fine), and discovered that the fuel lines were set-up incorrectly - the lines from the petcocks ran directly to the vacuum lines! (primitive direct injection? LOL!). Anyway, using the excellent labelled pictures you've provided the forum, I was able to reorganize the fuel & carb vent lines to their correct locations/destinations... the bike now starts & runs fairly well... I just don't know what to do with the vacuum fittings on each carb.... any suggestions on how to rout them and to where?)... any help from you or any other forum members would be greatly appreciated!

Best Regards to All,

Rob (SpockRob)

Hey, Rob! Welcome! I'm going to move this discussion over to the carbs/fuel/somethingorother area - meet me there!

C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Yes, just drop the lower cab cover. Refer to my posts Cleaning Jets without removing carbs. It's a bitch but with some ekkks ohhhs youu can do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Great help, I am doing the same only on the question end

I am so grateful for all the help and dialouge that is exchanged here, and I am new as a rider and onwer and want to really understand my bike and enjoy it safely as well. I stared mine with a new battery and some fresh oil and gas but know I need to do allot to it and would love advice on where to start and how to. I am new to engines and that side of mechanical parts as well, I am a woodworking guy, I restore furniture and looking to learn and understand the motors and greasy side of things.
Upon starting it I have to keep the throttle going or it does and there was gas pouring out of the area labled in the pics in my gallery http://www.vn750.com/forum/album.php?albumid=346. I have done allot of searching, downloaded the manual but still just dont have the vocab or understanding to make it into action yet. So why is fuel pouring out, how do I stop this and whats a good schedule for restoring a bike like this to road worthy and eventual glory status
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Drain Screw

Hi Folks!
Hopefully, one of you mechanics can tell me exactly which screw is the bowl drain screw and what type it is? (Flat, Phillips, Allen)?

I ALWAYS neglect to drain the carb/tank and every spring I can't get it to idle arrrrrrgggh! This year is no different :doh:

I cleaned the tank added fresh gas and it ran for about 5 minutes smoke-free, but then stalled and wouldn't re-start :-(!:

I'm hoping to see gas flow from the drain to rule out clogged carbs again.

Thanks for any help or guidance you can offer!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Carb Drain

Hi Folks!
Hopefully, one of you mechanics can tell me exactly which screw is the bowl drain screw and what type it is? (Flat, Phillips, Allen)?

I ALWAYS neglect to drain the carb/tank and every spring I can't get it to idle arrrrrrgggh! This year is no different :doh:

I cleaned the tank added fresh gas and it ran for about 5 minutes smoke-free, but then stalled and wouldn't re-start :-(!:

I'm hoping to see gas flow from the drain to rule out clogged carbs again.

Thanks for any help or guidance you can offer!!
I don't know if you got an answer to this question, but I too would like some clarification. From user Corbins365 “Carb parts 101 properly labeled” there are 7 pictures and picture 4 the first/second black bar label i think is pointing to a drain screw. Not sure if that is it or not. Also same picture going down fifth/sixth black bar label i think is pointing to a drain screw. Would those be the correct screws to drain the carbs if the bike will be sitting for a long time like winter?

I also heard that there is some kind of special spray lubricant you use to treat your air filters with that helps keep them moist and it prevents them from becoming dry rotter, but don't know the name. Perhaps others know the name.

Thanks,

-Eric
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Hi Folks!
Hopefully, one of you mechanics can tell me exactly which screw is the bowl drain screw and what type it is? (Flat, Phillips, Allen)?
I don't know if you got an answer to this question, but I too would like some clarification. From user Corbins365 “Carb parts 101 properly labeled” there are 7 pictures and picture 4 the first/second black bar label i think is pointing to a drain screw. Not sure if that is it or not. Also same picture going down fifth/sixth black bar label i think is pointing to a drain screw. Would those be the correct screws to drain the carbs if the bike will be sitting for a long time like winter?

I also heard that there is some kind of special spray lubricant you use to treat your air filters with that helps keep them moist and it prevents them from becoming dry rotter, but don't know the name. Perhaps others know the name.
Thanks,

-Eric
Link to "Corbins365 “Carb parts 101 properly labeled” gallery pics:
http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=677&cat=548

Yes GrnGnts, those are the drain and drain screws for the carbs.
You can clearly see the rear drain screw head on the left side of the picture.
The front drain nipple is visible on the right side, but the screw head is facing away from the camera.

Cindys`s pictures seem to show either a "Torx" or an "Allen" head drain screw.

I just looked at my bike and my drain has a screw that appears to accept a "Phillips" #2 or a flat head screwdriver.

So Paulb750, you will have to check your own bike to see which screwdriver you will need.:)

The location of the drain screws:

1. -Left side screw is right behind the front ACCT. When you approach the screw with the screwdriver, the shaft just clears the rear cylinder, and the handle will be right beside the left rear spark plug.

2. -The right side drain screw is just beside the throttle cable connections on the carb.

AIR FILTER OIL
To be an effective filter, the OEM foam air filter needs to be treated with motor oil, or specialty filter oil.

I have a K&N filter on my car, with a cleaning and oiling kit for it.
I expect the K&N spray or bottled filter oil would be fine to use on the Vulcan foam filters too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Link to "Corbins365 “Carb parts 101 properly labeled” gallery pics:
http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=677&cat=548

Yes GrnGnts, those are the drain and drain screws for the carbs.
You can clearly see the rear drain screw head on the left side of the picture.
The front drain nipple is visible on the right side, but the screw head is facing away from the camera.
Best practices for draining your carb if knowing will sit for a long time would be to Shut petcock and run the bike until empty and stalls because no more fuel? Does this damage anything or cause problems when ready to start the bike again?

Or is better to unscrew the
The location of the drain screws:

1. -Left side screw is right behind the front ACCT. When you approach the screw with the screwdriver, the shaft just clears the rear cylinder, and the handle will be right beside the left rear spark plug.

2. -The right side drain screw is just beside the throttle cable connections on the carb.
letting the both drain until empty?

Or Shut petcock and run until empty and then unscrew the drain screws?
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Best practices for draining your carb if knowing will sit for a long time would be to Shut petcock and run the bike until empty and stalls because no more fuel? Does this damage anything or cause problems when ready to start the bike again?

Or is better to unscrew the


letting the both drain until empty?

Or Shut petcock and run until empty and then unscrew the drain screws?
Good questions Grn Gnts, and there is some difference of opinion on the matter of storing the bike for the winter with "Seafoamed" gas in the tank and carbs, or running the carbs dry before storage.
No harm done by running them dry if you so choose.

Not neccessary to go to the fuss of draining carb bowls for storage. Draining is usually reserved for trouble-shooting carb problems such as finding dirt in the bowls or seeing if there is actually any fuel getting to the carbs.

My own experience is that my bike has sat for 3 years now since an accident and I have been unable to ride. It still has the same half tank of gas in it. The first year I don`t think I had any Seafoam in it, but the engine started the spring of 2009 w/o problems. I learned of Seafoam on this board and put about 6 oz in the tank and ran the bike for 10 minutes or so to get the treated gas into the carbs. It was stored again the second winter with gas in the carbs. The engine was probably started 2 or 3 times last summer (2010), and I ran the carbs dry before storing for the winter. I have not started the bike yet this spring, but expect it will fire up in 5-10 seconds just like it did last year. (With a new MF-AGM battery installed. :pepper::smiley_th)

As I can`t ride again for another year, I probably should drain the old gas and burn it in my car soon, then refill the mc tank with fresh gas, well Seafoamed again. :smiley_th
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,803 Posts
I don't understand why you would want to close the petcock and let the engine run until it stalls out which would suck any moisture or dirt into the pilot jet. The idea of the drain screws is to eliminate moisture and crap from the float bowl BEFORE it gets into the jets. It only takes a couple of minutes and a piece of 1/4 " fuel line to drain the carbs. JMO
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
I don't understand why you would want to close the petcock and let the engine run until it stalls out which would suck any moisture or dirt into the pilot jet. The idea of the drain screws is to eliminate moisture and crap from the float bowl BEFORE it gets into the jets. It only takes a couple of minutes and a piece of 1/4 " fuel line to drain the carbs. JMO
I learn something new here every day, so maybe I have to re-evaluate my ideas on this practice. Thanks for explaining it so well JM.:smiley_th
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,803 Posts
I learn something new here every day, so maybe I have to re-evaluate my ideas on this practice. Thanks for explaining it so well JM.:smiley_th
You're welcome OlHoss LOL I hope your rehab is going well :smiley_th
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
heya....?

Carb reinstall is a nightmare. I removed with T cables attached, only removed choke. 2 hrs, I reinstalled carbs (cables removed to reinstall), I see where the pull goes, but cant see the decellerator end. Do I really even need it ? I see the cable seat, but dont see the end piece. Do I need to remove carbs again just to hook up the T cables ? Who designed these things ?
My Harley was so easy with one carb right in middle, one filter, and wide open...dang !
:confused:
 
21 - 40 of 59 Posts
Top