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51 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Would anyone have 162 main Jets and 40 pilot Jets (threads on step down)?
I need 2 main and 2 pilot.or have the information as to where I can purchase the jets and needle shims to doear shave on vn750

Premium Member
1,766 Posts
Would anyone have 162 main Jets and 40 pilot Jets (threads on step down)?
I need 2 main and 2 pilot.or have the information as to where I can purchase the jets and needle shims to doear shave on vn750
Try here http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/, I've bought lots of them from them.


158 Posts
Also check your local Kaw Dealer. Sometimes the parts counter has the jets right there. You will probably need to bring the old ones with you to make sure you get the right kind.

51 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I was on Gadgets fixit page and they recomended the 162 main with ear shave, would appreciate any information you have.thanks

Search Goddess
2,002 Posts
Ear Shaves from the VN750 Yahoo group

Pick's Ear Shave
Sherm's Ear Shave Kit
Part Number ES-750K from www.shermscycleproducts.com
$158 + $7 shipping - total $165

Kit includes:
PK-82 PodKit from UNI
Emgo Crankcase Breather Assembly Part # 14-20900
Factory Pro Jet Kit - Part # CRB-K24-3.0

I had to buy:
6" of 5/16" rubber fuel hose and a clamp
(to connect the crankcase breather to the fatter hose coming out of the front cylinder)

Pilot #40
Main #140
Needle #965h7-44u7_ss (I just used the ones supplied with jet kit)
Clip 3rd notch from the top
4 washers on top of each clip (don't know why but it works)

The hardest parts were removing the airbox and getting the carbs out. The rest was easy, and I am NOT a wrench. (Not even close.)

A great set of instructions from Trent Mills (as well as other info) can be found in the VROC archives
(search on 750 ear shave)


Frank's Ear Shave Write-up
Here's some valuable information that I have collected regarding the Ear Shave.
This should get you started, but may require some more research.
Please note that I am not a mechanic. This is information only. If you're
unsure, have a pro do it. Feel free to email me or post any q's.

Check out Jason's Ear Shave: http://photos.yahoo.com/jaster131/

Check out Frank's Ear Shave: http://photos.yahoo.com/fcb64

Thanks to Jason Spivy for posting the parts list.

Ron Ayers:
1 x 14-20900 EMGO crank case filters* = $10.63
(this one mounts on the left side and connects to the crankcase
or you can order one more for the right side, connects to the
breather on the carb float bowl assebly)
Shipping = about $8.00 from California
*There has been problems with the adhesive on these filters,
most of us who have them used a stronger silicone or epoxy.

Auto Zone
1 x Spectre 3995 Breather Filter $9.00
(this one is used for the breather on the carb float bowl and
can be placed underneath & behind the seat)

2 x 019-812 40-Idle jet = $8.90
1 x 019-194 140-Main jet = $4.45 (2-140's seems to work for most)
1 x 019-195 142-Main jet = $4.45 (optional)
1 x 009-396 0.126" Shim 12 pack = $4.00
Shipping = about $8.75

Auto Zone (may have to special order)
2 x K&N RC-2340 = $71.82 (not including local tax)
AJ USA (www.ajusa.com) 1-800-877-1911
2 x K&N RC-2340 = $58.70 (includes "FREE" shipping!!)

1 x 1/4" rubber vacuum cap $1.59 (Autozone comes in pkg of 4)
(Used on right side of carb vacuum fitting)

Small cable tie (for the vacuum cap)

True Value: (optional)
2 x 20mm chrome bolts = $6.38
2 x chrome washers = $1.78
(non-chrome bolts and washers about $ .75)

Total = about $135.00

In case I made a typo, verify parts numbers before ordering.

The chrome bolts and washers were used to mount the crank case filters
(stock bolts were too short). One filter was used for the crank case
and the other for the carb breather hose. There are cheaper filters
than K&N but that is a personal preference.

You'll also need a new breather hose which can be bought at any auto
store. I used some hoses laying around here but it looks like you need
the hose, 45 elbow, and 90 elbow.

To answer several questions in one post:

Q: Why do you add shims?
A: After the ear shave, the needles need to be shorter.
As far as I can tell, no one makes a shorter needle for these carbs.
You may have read some other members posts about Sherm's rebuild
kit that includes replacement needles. I used the stock needles.
The only way to shorten the stock needles are to add shims
(obviously doesn't shorten it but raises it up a little).

Q: How many shims did you use on each needle?
A: I put two under each needle and that seems to work fine.
Two shims seems to be the standard that works for most people.

<This is assuming that you are using the original stock needles.>

The following is part of a discussion regarding the stock
needles -vs- the needles that are supplied with The Factory Pro
Jet Kit from Sherm's:

Just to clarify -- I used 4 shims ON "TOP OF" each
needle, not under. -Pick

The shims go "UNDER" the head of the needle (like the head of a nail).

If someone said that they put a washer under a nail, it would most
likely be understood that the nail went "through" the washer, not that
the point of the nail was on top of the washer.

The needle is tapered, and with more air flow from the ear shave, more
fuel is needed to maintain the correct fuel to air mixture, so raising
the needle opens more area around the needle to flow more fuel.
I removed each needle, slid two spacers on, then put the needles back
in. This puts the spacers on the top end on the needle but not on top
of the needle. ??? I'm confused. What does putting spacers on top of
the needle do?-doowriter123

OK, I don't claim to know the whys and wherefores, but I got the ear shave
kit from Sherm's before they went out of business. I got a selection of
jets, shims, and new needles with the kit. I used 40 pilots and 140 mains,
with the clip in the 3rd position on the new needles. IIRC, that was in the
middle slot. I did not use any shims. The bike ran fine while
accelerating, but when I let off the throttle, it would stumble badly --
sort of like it was running out of gas or something (maybe it was
flooding?). I popped the tops off of the carbs and put 4 shims on top of
each needle, and the stumbling disappeared. The bike ran great all the
time, throughout the rpm range, accelerating or decelerating. I don't know
why this worked for me. It didn't make any sense to me either. I thought
the shims would have to go under the needles. I can only guess that putting
the shims on top causes more pressure to be applied downward, keeping the
needles from "floating" as much, or something like that. -Pick

Sooooo.... You didn't use the original needles. You had needles that
used clips that came with Sherms kit. The clip position limits the maximum
down limit of the needle. This explains the 3rd clip position.

If the clip on the needle is enough smaller than the vacuum slide
spring seat, the needle could possibly be able to wiggle around and
up and down, so putting shims on top could hold the needles down
where they should be.

The needles and clips are a more expensive way to get the result,
but they may have been chosen because of their profile. -doowriter123

That sounds plausible to me. The new needles came with the Factory Pro jet
kit, so I thought I may as well use them. If I had stayed with the stock
needles, I would most likely have used a different configuration to get it
to run right. -Pick

After the ear shave, the needles need to be shorter.
As far as I can tell, no one makes a shorter needle for these carbs.
The only way to shorten the needle is to add shims
(obviously doesn't shorten it but raises it up a little).

Use the stock needle, and two shims "UNDER" each needle. -Frank Braun

Q: My new jets seem shorter than the stock jets, is that okay?
A: The jets that come with the PRO Jet Kit are the same length
as the stock jets. The jets from Sudco seem to be shorter but
have the same effect. So length does not seem to be an issue.

Q: you mention bolts to mount the crank case & breather filters. Where
did you mount these?
A: I mounted them at the top bolt hole from the ears. (Some have
mounted to the bottom bolt hole) The old bolts
were too short so they had to be replaced.

Q: Whats the vacuum cap for?
A: The carbs have two vacuum connectors. One goes to the gas tank
petcock and the other one used to go to the surge tank. I decided to
plug the vacuum on the right side of the bike and secure it with the cable
tie. The engine seemed to idle better. Some people buy a small filter
and connect it under the seat. It's optional.

Q: did you take carbs out or do the needle & jet work with them in place?
A: I installed the shims with the carbs in place. I did everything I
could to install the jets without removing the carbs but couldn't do
it. Removing the carbs was easier than I expected. Plus it gave me a
chance to inspect the diaphrams and the connections.

Q: what is wrong with the ears ? why remove them ?
A: There's nothing wrong with them*. Some want to increase air flow in
order to increase power (and decrease fuel economy*). Others want a
cleaner, less cluttered appearance. I had one ear busted and needed to
replace it. Also, it seems that every time I did work on the bike, I
was hitting the ears with my elbow, head, etc. I don't mind the look of
the ears, but I do enjoy having less stuff in my way.

*Keep in mind that the ear shave may be illegal in some states due to the emmissions.
Save all the old parts just in case the laws change.

Lowain's Ear Shave
42 pilots, 142 mains, K&N filters # RC-2340, coasters from Sherms, emgo crankcase filters for crankcase and carb vent bolted were the ears bolted up. V&H Cruzers

Marlin's earshave
Illigit Carbonious (?) had pulled the ears off of his 750, left the carbs the same and taped the filters to match air flow to the carb jetting. This meant I knew that it could physically be done, just needed to tune the carbs.

I wanted to do the full ear shave but I couldn't find anyone who had done it before, not "kit" and I had never worked with motorcycle carbs before (except cleaning them), 1999. I really just didn't like the way the ears looked. What really kicked it off for me was when I went to a few mechanics at the local stealers and they said it couldn't be done.

I have loaded a file (not presently up to date) in the VROC Archives on 750 ear shave.

With a lot of help from Illigit, Wired George, a lot of others, I finally gor her running where I liked her. I still tweek with it for fun, but the basic recipe I came up with was no washers, 42 pilot jet, about 145 - 150 rear carb and about 150 -155 front carb.

Mike's Matilda Vulchop
38 stock pilot, moving to 40 pilot, to solve low end problem, 135 main front and rear, 3 rd clip position on needle from Factory Pro Kit. K&N 2340 Pods, Vance and Hines Cruzers with half of packing baffle removed. Killer Ride..

"ya can't live forever"
321 Posts
As Diana already posted there is a ton of info here. Personally I used 40s front and rear, and 140 and 142 front and rear.

203 Posts

I sent you some jets I don't believe that a 160 main is in there but, I am sure there is a 40 pilot.

51 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the stuff, installed the jets in the carbs I have, and has helped, there was 140 mains and 40 pilots.

203 Posts
Cool. They where just laying around collecting dust. I am glad they are in and working.

51 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I sold my vulcan a week ago and really missed it the next day,going to Owensboro KY thursdat to pick up another Gl 1200,enjoyed the last one,so will do it again. I know I will not own another bike like the vn750.
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