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Discussion Starter #1
Had an issue with my 95 Vulcan running lean... checked for a vacuum leak via carb clean and the bike idled up automatically which tells me I have to replace the boots.... I havent torn into it yet, but I have the boots in the mail... is it possible to replace the boots one at a time without removing the carb completely?
 

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I’m gonna say it is possible but the headache it will cause will drive ya nuts. Taking the carbs out is no picnic either but it’ll just be easier with them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply! Ima see what I can do on Saturday with it. Was just hoping to avoid carb removal unless it was absolutely necessary.
 

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Yep, may as well pull the carbs, it's a tight fit putting them back in, probably no room to tip the boots. (I leave the cables on)

Check the manual .... For carb removal, one boot stays with the carb, and one stays on the head. Forget which ones.

Can't imagine doing it with the airbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am pretty sure the front cylinder boot gets put on the engine itself then the rear one is attached to the carb for re-insertion. Do you have to loosen the adjustment for the cables when you leave em on? Or just swear alot and wiggle em back in lmao
 

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I am pretty sure the front cylinder boot gets put on the engine itself then the rear one is attached to the carb for re-insertion. Do you have to loosen the adjustment for the cables when you leave em on? Or just swear alot and wiggle em back in lmao
"swear a lot and wiggle" is spot on. I always just popped my carbs out of both boots, leaving them attached to the cylinders, but my bike is earshaved (airbox system removed in favor of individual pod filters on each carb) and it's still a PITA to get the carbs in and out.

Possible, yes. Favorable, no. Not a bad idea to clean 'em up really nicely while you have them out so you don't have to try and get 'em back out again anytime soon. It's like a right of passage for these bikes lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is by far the biggest PITA V-twin I have ever messed with, lol. The red truck in my picture was easier to do an engine swap than pull these damn carbs lol. I filled the carb bowls with carb cleaner (no varnish when they drained) and sprayed my butterflies down already. So I think the innards of the carbs are spot-on.

I do want to do the delete of the airbox. Not sure how to delete it and individually put airfilters on, though. Should i just tear the whole air cleaning system out?
 

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Pull off the two airboxes on the sides of the bike (aka the "ears")
Disconnect all of the rubber things connected to the main airbox (aka the "surge tank")
Make a cut to remove the front portion of the surge tank (or at least to let it hinge upward so it can slide out the back)
Yank it up and out towards the rear of the bike, being careful of the coolant lines and wiring loom

Pic related might help
 

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Spockster and I run Uni PK-92 filters, a lot of people run the K&N RC-2340. You'll also need a crankcase breather filter for the crankcase vent tube at the front of the engine, and you can put another on the carb vent hose, but I just tucked it up into the main tube of the frame so it sits in dead air

Don't forget to order filter oil for whichever brand you pick
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, man. I really appreciate it. This forum has saved my biscuits from many frustrations. Ill be sure to update you guys as I go along with restoring this poor bike from the dead.
 

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like I often say, my bike wouldn't be half of what it is today without this forum. Glad to help, man, looking forward to hearing how it goes
 

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Love my little Uni PK97s with the chrome caps, those are kinda hard to find now, but they have black.

About the best place to find the crankcase filter is the auto parts chains. O'rielly and Zone have quite a few with their racing goodies. They were $9.99 there, and quite a bit higher online.
 

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I used the k&n 2340 on mine.if you just do the ear shave you should not need a rejet.but you might if you do exhaust changes

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
 
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