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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys. I just bought a 2000 750 and it can't shift into gears but the shifter doesn't have play or move freely like the other post I have been reading. Can someone point me in the right direction to fix this issue. I was told the bike needed a new rear wheel for this issue but I feel it's the shifter issue from what I have read from this forum. oh and the rear brakes don't work either. i can push down on the rear brakes and the bike will still move. inputs would be great or links to post on how to fix these issue would be great. thanks
 

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Well, I can only give a little advice on the rear brake. There is an adjustment for it, look on the right side and there is a nut that you can adjust. If that doesn't work, you should probably take off the wheel to inspect the brake shoes, maybe it needs new ones. Rear brake is a drum type, so it's pretty simple... no cylinder, fluid or discs to ponder about.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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hi guys. I just bought a 2000 750 and it can't shift into gears but the shifter doesn't have play or move freely like the other post I have been reading. Can someone point me in the right direction to fix this issue. I was told the bike needed a new rear wheel for this issue but I feel it's the shifter issue from what I have read from this forum. oh and the rear brakes don't work either. i can push down on the rear brakes and the bike will still move. inputs would be great or links to post on how to fix these issue would be great. thanks
I am unclear what you mean by the shifter not having play nor moving freely.
Do you mean it is seized in place and will not move up or down at all?

Or do you mean it has normal spring tension when applying pressure to the shifter lever up and down, and no excessive looseness in that the shaft does not slide horizontally in or out of the crankcase?

I can`t visualize what would cause either of these scenarios. :confused:
I`m just trying to clearly identify the problem for one of our more experienced transmission wrenchs who may be able to help.


X2 to Ceal`s adjustment suggestions on the rear brake. Examine the brake wear indicator on the rear hub. Be sure the arrow is pointing in between the acceptable wear lines. If the shoes are not worn out, and the adjustment still doesn`t get the brake working, you may have to pull the rear wheel off.

A member from the UK had the actuating cam at the top of the drum seized up with old grease and dirt so that it would not turn and apply pressure to activate the brake shoes. After cleaning the cam and applying some grease it works fine again.

Post back answers for tranny please.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sorry. Yes there is normal tension when applying pressure to the shifter but it doesn't want to go into gear and there is no looseness in the shaft and doesn't slide horizontally in/out of the crankcase like others have posted.
 

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hmm you know, even reading about other people's problems helps out! I'm gonna have to check my rear brake cam for dirt, now that you have mentioned it OlHoss! I think that might be the weird feeling I have on my rear brake.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Does the bike have an excessive number of miles on it?

The only easy thing to check is the shift pawl behind the cover with the oil level check window on the lower left side of the engine. You will have to drain the oil before pulling this cover.

This link shows a picture of how the corners of the pawl can become worn off. This could be the cause of your non shifting issue.
http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=203&cat=505
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It have 20k miles. i was messing with the bike and I think it's the spline issues i been reading about. I put it on the middle stand and i tried to shift and I believe it is shifting because when in nautral I can spin the wheel and it sounds fine. then I shift it into gear and i can still spin the wheel by hand but hear clicking noice by the drive shaft or spline and wheel. I think this is a spline issue right???
 

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It have 20k miles. i was messing with the bike and I think it's the spline issues i been reading about. I put it on the middle stand and i tried to shift and I believe it is shifting because when in nautral I can spin the wheel and it sounds fine. then I shift it into gear and i can still spin the wheel by hand but hear clicking noice by the drive shaft or spline and wheel. I think this is a spline issue right???
I believe you are right. It sounds like the splines from your description now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
so at this point should I just look for a new spline before I take it apart? from the sound of it I think the gears is worn down so it's not grabing the gears for the wheel. Thanks for the input ohhosscanada. I'm going to be reading on the spline lube and remove and replace for that piece. This site is great. I can see people on here are willing to help!
 

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You may need both a replacement final drive and new coupler. FlacoLove dodged a bullet and just needs a new coupler on his. Take it apart and see what you need before accumulating parts. I was so paranoid I bought a replacement driveshaft/coupler before lubing the splines. No grease, but the splines were still in good shape.
 

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I think fc makes a good suggestion to pull the rear splines apart for an inspection to determine exactly what you need, before spending a bunch of money collecting parts.

Here is a link to fergy`s webpage and several tech write-ups, including the spline lube and final drive replacement.
http://pages.tstar.net/~fergy/vulcan.html
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks guys. I have read fergy's link like 5 times now so I have a mental picture of the procedure. I might try to start taking it apart on tuesday. I'm going to take some pictures also so you can tell me if it's bad or not if that's cool
 

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FlacoLove just pulled his splines apart this weekend and discovered his coupler is pretty much worn out, but the final drive splines are still looking servicable, (as long as he doesn`t make a habit of racing the little Honda Civic tuner boys away from stop lights!)

Here`s some pics of his splines in his thread.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16287
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for the help guys!!!!:notworthy didn't even have a manuel and only use this site.took my bike apart and only the coupler needed to be replace and there was a bike yard that had one for ony $30!! it wasn't even hard.the hardest part was putting the right peg back on. put it back together and rode around the neighborhood three times. Now next issue is low power at initial throttle. I think I just need to clean out my carb
 

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Good on ya mate. Glad you were able to fix it w/o breaking the bank.:smiley_th

Fill out your profile so your location shows up on each post, and info about your bike in your signature.:)
 

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I found a site for used final drives

Theinthan, I found a website that represents motorcycle salvage yards and they found 4 final drives. I bought mine from Mr. Motorcycle in Ft Worth 817 284 0807 for $300 from an 02 with 14000 miles. Includes the final drive and coupling. For $50 more I could have gotten the drive shaft. Ordered Saturday and expect delivery this week.

The other salvage yards listed with final drives in stock are;
MID in Sumter S.C. 803 773 3535...final drive only $250. with coupling and drive shaft $375.
Rancho Motor cylce dismantling...Rancho CA 800 494 2925. $395 final drive, coupling and drive shaft plus shipping. From 05 bike.

Stocker CA. $300 shaft coupler and final drive from 99 bike plus shpg $35.00. I have missplaced their number. In interested let me know and I will back track to find the number.

FYI. The most difficult thing I have found in doing this repair is finding a set of snap ring pliers long and thin enought to get the snap ring off the end of the drive shaft so I can remove the old coupler. I have looked in every auto parts store in San Antonio and only found one set I think will do the trick ...at Northern Tools....and they were out of stock for the outer snap ring tool. I have ordered from them on line and the picture is not the same but hope they are long enough and thing enough to go up into the coupler.

Good luck on your bike.

Wicker San Antonio
 
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